kerry.king

Ok Gents,& Ladies... I just ordered a smarty jr-me, egr cooler delete, gdp intake manifold, & flo pro 4" turbo back exhaust. Gotta go back to work up north monday, so it will be 2 weeks before I get home & can install everything. Here are my questions.
I'm told that sometimes the smarty will allow the over head info deal to read out that the dpf is full and throw a cel? True? I haven't seen anything about that on here. The guy tried to get me to buy the h&s, but it wasn't in my budget. Also, a buddy of mine with the identcal truck did full deletes, ran the stock air box for awhile, then added an intake & his mpg increase by 2 mpg. Whaddya think? Bs? I read on here that the factory air intake is great. I am going to do the air box mod we've all seen here, the one where we drill a big hole in the bottom & run a tube down to in front of the steer tire.
He said on his truck he's been running full deletes for 150k & no issues but the cel and dpf full dinger.
I'm looking forward to what you guys have to say, especially Megaengineer & Blake! ha!! You 2 guys are like the brittanica of these trucks!
Excited to join the BlackTech Club,
Kerry

mega-engr

Sounds like some good things going on here! Exciting, and you're gonna be a happy camper. I've heard that some have had a few odd ball cells and full messages, but I've never gotten anything... I've heard that there have been updates to the Smarty Program to help resolve any such items. Not sure if your friend has the latest Program or not, but just make sure you check this small issue. It is on their site:

http://http://madselectronics.com/CodeFreeJR_DPF_EGRDelete.html

Regarding the airbox deal, I have an S&B intake and I like it. Was pretty inexpensive and seems to work well. I love the turbo sound I get. However, not too sure about ANY such increase in MPG just due to an fileter intake. The stock box flows more than enough and modding it with the extended tube and removing the restrictions in the tube pre turbo works just fine.

kerry.king

I went bye his shop & took a look @ this amazing air intake he's got. Its just a BHAF on a piece of tubing to the turbo. Doesn't isolate the intake for engine heat at all. He's also running the smarty sr with the dpf deleted, but still has the egr operating. I'm thinking that's why he's getting the code.

kerry.king

Hey Mega, that link you posted isn't working. I'm trying to find it on the site & not having any luck.

Blake Clark

Kerry

Id get the overhead full message from time to time on my 08, but that was running V23 of the Smarty software. There have been a few updates since then and I believe it has been addressed.

If it does pop up just grab the Smarty and clear the codes and it goes away.

Update link here.

http://www.madselectronics.com/DownloadJ67ME.html


Factory intake will do you fine for modest mods. An aftermarket with cleanable filter is nice, and if you go to missing that soothing turbo music, will help to put a little whistle back in your life.

Have fun deleting!

mega-engr

One too many http:// in the link. Sorry about that, fixed it now and I see that it works. Also I see Super Blake provided a correct link too, and given some other great advise as usual! I'm at rev 23 myself too and it looks like the latest is 28.

kerry.king

Sweet, thanks guys. Knew you 2 woulda been the ones to answer. Ha! Prolly coulda just pm'd either of you. I'm really stoked stoked to get it all on the truck. This next hitch in N.D. is gonna feel even longer than usual.

kerry.king

update time! got all the goodies put on wednesday. glacier diesel intake, egr block off plates, silicon hose to route the coolant. wasn't too bad. had to heat up & bend a 15mm wrench to get the inboard front bolt on the cooler mount and of course the rear inboard one.
then we moved to the exhaust...
starting with the air wrench, then gave up & got the sawzall! came out quick after that! didnt even have to lower the tranny crossmemeber! cut the pipe right behind the resonator and the down pipe fell right out! hardest part of putting on the new flopro exhaust was getting the clamp lined up on the turbo to the pipe. after that it was a breeze!
smarty jr installed with no problems, got it set on fuel economywith the p.o.d. feature @ 75, tq @ 2. pulls like a train now! did the airbox mod yesterday in the driveway. $11.22 in parts from true value and 1 hour.
just thought i'd throw out an update. thanks for all the advice guys!
kerry

mega-engr

Congratulations! On your newborn baby!

kerry.king

thanks mega. i have one more question. the servo that was on the egr cooler, i have it zip tied up right now, but now im wondering if i can unplug it and put it in the junk box too?

mega-engr

OK, if it is the one on the EGR Cooler that you're actually speaking of then you were supposed to disconnect that one. Hence, you can get rid of it. This (EGR Cooler Servo) is on the passenger side of the engine. The one that needs to stay and be zip tied is on the driver side and it is the EGR valve motor.

Even if you left the EGR Cooler pluged in then I'm pretty sure it won't affect anything. I forgot to unplug that one originally and could not tell any difference after I unplugged it.

kerry.king

whoops! i did it backwards! better dig the one off the throttle valve out of the junk box. hasn't showed a code yet though. i wonder if its affecting performance? when i put it back on is there anything i need to do to it? or just hook it back up?

mega-engr

OK, if you did it backwards then you will still not get any codes because of the programmer. Leaving the cooler servo plugged in seems to really do nothing. I think the instructions just say you CAN unplug it (as in if you are deleting). Other connections (such as the throttle valve) must be disconnected. I didn't delete this stuff because I'm in CA, I just want it disabled (thanks Smarty), so my truck looks all stock, but performs just like it is fully deleted (as far as I can tell).

However, for the EGR motor, if you unplug this, my understanding is there is like a 40hp derate that has been found on the dyno. The programming still needs to see the circuit connected for full HP on the given settings even though the EGR is programmer for 0% at all times. Again, there will be no CEL and most people still don't even notice the derate in HP (probably because they are asking for more from the Programmer in the first place).

Yes, you need to pull the plunger out is all. The motor will go through its motions (I suspect) from time to time and yet do nothing to the valve with the plunger removed. It is simple. Plug in the motor, turn the key to ON, the pluger will pop up a bit. Just yank it a bit and it snaps right out (with the spring). Put the plunger/spring in your favorite storage place and then just bolt the plugged in motor back on (like I did), or zip tie it somewhere it you deleted the valve. If you deleted the valve and are zip tying the motor (keep it plugged in) then you don't need to remove the plunger or spring...

Hope this all makes sense and helps.

kerry.king

that cleared it up! thanks man. i swapped it over and could feel a big difference. thanks for your help pal.