xcc_rider

Raceme and RacemePro are the offshore versions of the delete capable Smarty tuner.
Their Ultra tuner is expensive but can tune multiple ecms if you purchase a license for each of them. It is also able to run custom MCC tunes (and others???) So there's some different options there.

Gunner1368

I love the article but all the pictures are unavailable, something about a $399 photobucket upgrade to look at the pics...any ideas cause i really wanna do this delete and im trying to gain as much knowledge before i start

mega-engr

Do you have a 2007.5+ 6.7? You're signature says you have a 2004

Gunner1368

I have an 04. Butbuying a 2012

xcc_rider

Yeah, Photobucket is screwing with all of our accounts.

This thread is great because it shows different kinds of deletes. I have something hat can give you the basics or Cali delete as it's called. It's based on the 3rd gen equipment but will give you a general guide.
Download it from here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kywi3odf4...structions.pdf

Kyq66

Help! I've literally just followed the California instructions to a T and I'm getting a CEL. Code p2454 DPF pressure sensor A circuit low. I taped off all connections and unplugged and connectors under the hood. Full straight pipe delete. Ca delete under the hood so disconnected the 2 connectors and taped off. Literally just pulled this smarty Jr off a truck identical to mine and they never had a problem since 08 swapping the stock exhaust every 2 years for smog. Am I missing something?

Kyq66

Ok I plugged the smarty back in and reloaded to stage 2 instead of 1 and it is normal now and CEL is gone. Gonna take it round the block and might put it back to stage 1. At first the loading screen while updating showed a bunch of jibberish and symbols during the 0%-100% programming step. 2nd time around loading stage 2 didn't have those symbols and was normal.

mega-engr

Hopefully it was just a glitch during programming. I think there are some suggestions to make sure the batteries are charged, etc. Anyway, good job with tracing the steps and ensuring you had all the operations covered and reloading the program. Sounds like you're cured (possibly). Enjoy your better than new ride now.

jckprcll

I've been reading this thread and hoping for a little clarity. I have 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummings and I believe DPF is clogged. I get EGR Code and DPF codes P1451 DPF system performance active and P0489 EGR control circuit low. If I go route of delete will the Mini Maxx will I get codes in OBD?? Need to have OBD in Mass.

mega-engr

You should not get any codes because you would have a custom program in your ECU to handle the removed components. However, this will not pass any OBD test. You would have to put your equipment and computer back to stock.

Hence, the sustainable suggestion is to fix the stock emissions issue and then do the delete with programming and then revert back to stock when needed to pass OBD tests. This is exactly what I do in CA.

xcc_rider

And most likely the egr code indicates the valve is stuck open, destroying the fuel/air ratio, making a crap load of soot and filling the dpf faster than it can burn it off (regen).

Clean the egr valve, make sure the internals move freely inside the bore, install it, clear the codes with a GOOD code reader and go for a drive and see if it goes into regen.

If you want to eliminate the egr valve from the equation you can unplug the actuator and it will stay closed. You'll get a P0405 code but it's no big deal. I ran like that for well over a year with no issues besides better fuel mileage.

Any other codes or overhead messages?

jckprcll

I had codes P1451 and P0489 for emissions related. I also had issues with codes C140D transfer case motor control circuit open, B2213 Cabin Compartment Node/Cluster Internal stored, U0156 Lost communication with Electronics Overhead Module - stored, and U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Stored. I think there was an electrical issue with those that was repaired. The emissions issue keeps reoccurring with complete loss of power. It first started after a 280 mile hard drive highway ride. Next day light driving I got power loss and codes the next day. Power came back we fixed electrical issues and then power loss again last week with engine light. I believe same emission component codes, but I have not seen code reader yet.

When you ran with the EGR disconnected did you leave the DPF installed and active? If you did that should/could I do the mega california delete (remove the spring and such) for most of the time and reattach for OBD testing? I have mechanics up and down the street where I work that help me out, but I am not a mechanic with this type of stuff. Old 2 stroke out board boat motor I am all set. New complex electronically controlled diesels not so much.

mega-engr

Make sure you get yourself a code reader because that is important. XCC always has excellent advise and experience where he is able to help you find the root cause to the other codes (as in the EGR). I think that if you leave the EGR plugged in with plunger removed it will give you other codes and problems (without a programmer). It is widespread and fine to simply unplug the egr and get a CEL without any issue to performance (MPG will increase actually). However, another reason why you need a code reader because there will be CEL and you won't know how many codes you may have. Get to the bottom of the issues and fixed and then do the deletes to keep them from coming back and revert to stock when you need to pass tests.

xcc_rider

Yes you will go into limp mode if you leave it plugged in and remove the plunger.
Read this for a good recap on unplugging the egr actuator Unplugging your EGR RECAP! - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

I ran with the exhaust intact and egr actuator unplugged for about 6 months. I then Rane unplugged and tuned with an Emissions legal tune for a year with absolutely no problems except the cold start up surge that's explained in the recap. The surge went away in about 2 months of driving when the ecm finally learned not to use it.
It is easily reversible for dealer visits and emissions testing.

The biggest thing right now is the valve is most likely stuck in the open position and filling the dpf. You can unplug the egr valve actuator but the valve is still stuck open so you'll need to remove the actuator and using your finger, push on the piston assembly moving it all the way in (open) and out (closed) repeatedly until you're confident the valve is fully closed.
Reinstall the actuator, leave it unplugged and go for your drive to see if it will regen and clean the dpf.
If not then a trip to the dealer for a forced regen and possible egr valve replacement is in your future.

You can try cleaning the egr valve to see if it frees up the piston but in my experience, once it's sticking it's toast. I would still try it though. The cleaning instructions are on Geno's site linked on the egr cleaning kit page.
The most important thing is to check the piston travel afterwards. If it doesn't move smoothly without any hint of sticking then it should be good to go.

I wish you luck.

usmarine1979