Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!
07-12-2010, 09:59 AM
#1
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Deleting the 6.7: A guide to making it run right!
Many people have asked for a tutorial on the Bluetec system on the 6.7’s. I figured it was high time it was put all into one place for those who need some guidance with the emissions hardware and how to work with and/or delete it. Now this is going to be long, but should be useful, I hope. We will start with the basics.
There are several components of the Bluetec system, which allow the 6.7 Cummins to meet 2010 EPA standards. On the Engine side there is the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. On the exhaust side there is the DPF (diesel particulate filter) NOX canister (Oxides of nitrous scrubber) and the Catalytic converter.
Lets start with the exhaust side.
When looking at the exhaust system from the turbo flowing back to the tail pipe, you will see four canisters total. The first canister that is closest to the turbo is the catalytic converter. It is the long canister in the bend of the down pipe.
The second canister is the NOX filter. It is the first of the large round canisters.
The third canister is the DPF.
The fourth canister is what is passed off for as a muffler. It is a straight through design for those that are wondering.
There will be five sensors in the factory exhaust piping. There will be two oxygen sensors. They are the larger diameter sensors. The three smaller sensors are the temperature probes. They measure what temp the DPF is at so that the ECM can put the truck into regen if needed. There is also a set of stainless steel tubing that connects to rubber tubing and a pressure sensor on the passenger side of the transmission. This is the DPF differential pressure sensor. It measures the flow of exhaust through the DPF, and can make a reading as to how much particulate matter is in the DPF at any given time. This works in tandem with the temp probes to keep the DPF clean and working in a (theoretically) functioning exhaust system.
I don’t have any pics of the factory exhaust in place. I didn’t think to snap any for posterity when I pulled mine off. Sorry
Now on to the engine side of the Bluetec system. The underhood components are group into three sections. The EGR, the EGR Cooler, and the Throttle Valve.
The EGR is on the intake side of the engine. It is positioned atop the intake horn and has the brown servo motor mounted on its right side.
The Throttle valve is located on the far drivers side of the intake horn. It is the part of the horn that contains the “butterfly valve”.
The EGR Cooler is positioned on the passenger side of the intake on top of the exhaust manifold.
The EGR System functions as follows. The EGR allows for exhaust gases to enter the intake stream. This is done by allowing the exhaust gases to cross “over” the engine via the crossover tube that is seen in the front of the engine. It is the long tube that sits in between the valve cover and the radiator. It connects the EGR Cooler to the EGR. As the EGR opens hot exhaust gasses flow from the exhaust stream through the crossover tube and into the intake. The EGR Coolers purpose is to cool the exhaust gases (as much as possible) using a cooling system that is integrated into the engines standard cooling system. The throttle valve functions to control the amount of fresh air allowed in versus the exhaust gasses being brought in by the EGR. So yes is fact, with the EGR system in place, most of the time, your engine is running on hot sooty exhaust gases, not clean fresh air.
Here is a picture showing the basic locations of the under hood components. Note that in this pic that the crossover tube is removed, as is the EGR servo motor, but will give a good idea to compare to a stock setup.
To accomplish any type of emissions deletes on the 6.7 you must employ the use of an aftermarket tuner. The two best tuners for getting the job done is either the Smarty Tuner, by MADS, or the Black Maxx (or its cousins), by H&S. Either setup will give you great results. This is not a brand war tutorial, so pick your own flavor. These two tuners are the only ones on the market that will allow you to COMPLETELY disable the Bluetec system and operate CODE FREE!
Other devices like the Edge Juice with attitude, will allow for removal of the DPF system, but not the EGR system. They also require simulators for the exhaust system and are not code free.
I must say, that any modifications to any of the Bluetec system, including but no limited to removing any hardware, and/or using a programmer, may result in the loss of your warranty. That is all dependent upon the way your local dealership views modifications and how good of a relationship you have with them.
One thing I always recommend is, should you have trouble with your Bluetec system and decide to delete, think about this. If you have any warranty left, make Dodge fix the system. That way when you delete you know that it was working properly and can only go upwards from there. If you are having trouble and have no warranty, ask questions in the forums before you act, we have a lot of knowledgeable guys and will be able to help you out.
Another thing to consider before doing any deletes is emissions testing in your area. Ask questions and know your restriction before you get yourself in a bind.
I must note however, that should you decided to delete, you will only ask yourself one question
“Why in the heck didn’t I do this sooner?”
There are several components of the Bluetec system, which allow the 6.7 Cummins to meet 2010 EPA standards. On the Engine side there is the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. On the exhaust side there is the DPF (diesel particulate filter) NOX canister (Oxides of nitrous scrubber) and the Catalytic converter.
Lets start with the exhaust side.
When looking at the exhaust system from the turbo flowing back to the tail pipe, you will see four canisters total. The first canister that is closest to the turbo is the catalytic converter. It is the long canister in the bend of the down pipe.
The second canister is the NOX filter. It is the first of the large round canisters.
The third canister is the DPF.
The fourth canister is what is passed off for as a muffler. It is a straight through design for those that are wondering.
There will be five sensors in the factory exhaust piping. There will be two oxygen sensors. They are the larger diameter sensors. The three smaller sensors are the temperature probes. They measure what temp the DPF is at so that the ECM can put the truck into regen if needed. There is also a set of stainless steel tubing that connects to rubber tubing and a pressure sensor on the passenger side of the transmission. This is the DPF differential pressure sensor. It measures the flow of exhaust through the DPF, and can make a reading as to how much particulate matter is in the DPF at any given time. This works in tandem with the temp probes to keep the DPF clean and working in a (theoretically) functioning exhaust system.
I don’t have any pics of the factory exhaust in place. I didn’t think to snap any for posterity when I pulled mine off. Sorry
Now on to the engine side of the Bluetec system. The underhood components are group into three sections. The EGR, the EGR Cooler, and the Throttle Valve.
The EGR is on the intake side of the engine. It is positioned atop the intake horn and has the brown servo motor mounted on its right side.
The Throttle valve is located on the far drivers side of the intake horn. It is the part of the horn that contains the “butterfly valve”.
The EGR Cooler is positioned on the passenger side of the intake on top of the exhaust manifold.
The EGR System functions as follows. The EGR allows for exhaust gases to enter the intake stream. This is done by allowing the exhaust gases to cross “over” the engine via the crossover tube that is seen in the front of the engine. It is the long tube that sits in between the valve cover and the radiator. It connects the EGR Cooler to the EGR. As the EGR opens hot exhaust gasses flow from the exhaust stream through the crossover tube and into the intake. The EGR Coolers purpose is to cool the exhaust gases (as much as possible) using a cooling system that is integrated into the engines standard cooling system. The throttle valve functions to control the amount of fresh air allowed in versus the exhaust gasses being brought in by the EGR. So yes is fact, with the EGR system in place, most of the time, your engine is running on hot sooty exhaust gases, not clean fresh air.
Here is a picture showing the basic locations of the under hood components. Note that in this pic that the crossover tube is removed, as is the EGR servo motor, but will give a good idea to compare to a stock setup.
To accomplish any type of emissions deletes on the 6.7 you must employ the use of an aftermarket tuner. The two best tuners for getting the job done is either the Smarty Tuner, by MADS, or the Black Maxx (or its cousins), by H&S. Either setup will give you great results. This is not a brand war tutorial, so pick your own flavor. These two tuners are the only ones on the market that will allow you to COMPLETELY disable the Bluetec system and operate CODE FREE!
Other devices like the Edge Juice with attitude, will allow for removal of the DPF system, but not the EGR system. They also require simulators for the exhaust system and are not code free.
I must say, that any modifications to any of the Bluetec system, including but no limited to removing any hardware, and/or using a programmer, may result in the loss of your warranty. That is all dependent upon the way your local dealership views modifications and how good of a relationship you have with them.
One thing I always recommend is, should you have trouble with your Bluetec system and decide to delete, think about this. If you have any warranty left, make Dodge fix the system. That way when you delete you know that it was working properly and can only go upwards from there. If you are having trouble and have no warranty, ask questions in the forums before you act, we have a lot of knowledgeable guys and will be able to help you out.
Another thing to consider before doing any deletes is emissions testing in your area. Ask questions and know your restriction before you get yourself in a bind.
I must note however, that should you decided to delete, you will only ask yourself one question
“Why in the heck didn’t I do this sooner?”
07-12-2010, 10:00 AM
#2
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Now, lets get on to deleting some stuff.
There are two styles of deletes that can be done to the 6.7. Around the 6.7 hangout on DTR a few guys, (Me mostly
) have started referring to them as follows.
Blake style Deletes: Full deletes of any thing the EPA ever dreamed about putting on the 6.7. This is best left for vehicles that do not have to comply with any emissions testing, and are not worried about any foreseen trouble with possible warranty work.
Mega-engr’s California Style deletes: This is a minimal delete that is stealth in appearance, but still fully disable the Bluetec system. They are quickly accomplished and easily returned to stock for emissions testing, and/or possible warranty work. They are also the easiest on the pocket book.
Lets start with the exhaust deletes. They are the least technical and easiest to accomplish.
California deletes, mega style.
This method will allow for quick removal of the DPF and NOX filter. With this method the Cat and stock muffler are left in place.
To do this delete you must have a DPF delete pipe such as this.
Now the delete pipe come in two styles, with or without sensor bungs. If you are purchasing a new pipe you would want to get one without the sensor bungs. The sensors do not need to be replaced with either the Smarty or H&S tuners.
To install the DPF delete pipe, unbolt the three bolts on the flange forward of the NOX filter, and the clamp that is on the muffler.
Unplug all five of the sensor harnesses (the three temp probes and two oxygen sensors).
Disconnect the rubber tubing from the pressure sensor on the side of the transmission. Here is a pic of the pressure sensor with all lines disconnected.
Install the delete pipe in place of the canisters that were removed.
The sensors are not needed. The sensor harness simply need to be sealed with electrical tape and secured to the frame. The pressure sensor can be left as it is in the picture (that’s how mine has been for almost two years) or if you prefer, you can use a piece of tubing to connect the two ports together so no sediment gets inside.
If you should happen to already have a delete pipe with the sensor bungs in place it can be used. Simply leave the sensor in place in the pipe, but unplug its harness as previously stated. If you choose not to leave the sensor in place, you could always purchase whatever size plug would fit the bung and plug it that way.
Blake Style (full exhaust) deletes:
This one is simple too. Remove all of the sensor harnesses and pressure lines as stated before. Tape up and secure the harnesses and the pressure sensor. Remove entire exhaust from the turbo back. Procure your favorite exhaust system. Any exhaust 4” or 5” for a 04.5 and up 5.9 Cummins will fit. Install exhaust.
You will have to drop the transmission cross member to remove the down pipe. The easiest way to accomplish this is to support the tranny with a good sturdy jack. Remove the bolts on the passenger side, loosen the bolts on the driver side, and let the cross member swing down.
There are two styles of deletes that can be done to the 6.7. Around the 6.7 hangout on DTR a few guys, (Me mostly
) have started referring to them as follows. Blake style Deletes: Full deletes of any thing the EPA ever dreamed about putting on the 6.7. This is best left for vehicles that do not have to comply with any emissions testing, and are not worried about any foreseen trouble with possible warranty work.
Mega-engr’s California Style deletes: This is a minimal delete that is stealth in appearance, but still fully disable the Bluetec system. They are quickly accomplished and easily returned to stock for emissions testing, and/or possible warranty work. They are also the easiest on the pocket book.
Lets start with the exhaust deletes. They are the least technical and easiest to accomplish.
California deletes, mega style.
This method will allow for quick removal of the DPF and NOX filter. With this method the Cat and stock muffler are left in place.
To do this delete you must have a DPF delete pipe such as this.
Now the delete pipe come in two styles, with or without sensor bungs. If you are purchasing a new pipe you would want to get one without the sensor bungs. The sensors do not need to be replaced with either the Smarty or H&S tuners.
To install the DPF delete pipe, unbolt the three bolts on the flange forward of the NOX filter, and the clamp that is on the muffler.
Unplug all five of the sensor harnesses (the three temp probes and two oxygen sensors).
Disconnect the rubber tubing from the pressure sensor on the side of the transmission. Here is a pic of the pressure sensor with all lines disconnected.
Install the delete pipe in place of the canisters that were removed.
The sensors are not needed. The sensor harness simply need to be sealed with electrical tape and secured to the frame. The pressure sensor can be left as it is in the picture (that’s how mine has been for almost two years) or if you prefer, you can use a piece of tubing to connect the two ports together so no sediment gets inside.
If you should happen to already have a delete pipe with the sensor bungs in place it can be used. Simply leave the sensor in place in the pipe, but unplug its harness as previously stated. If you choose not to leave the sensor in place, you could always purchase whatever size plug would fit the bung and plug it that way.
Blake Style (full exhaust) deletes:
This one is simple too. Remove all of the sensor harnesses and pressure lines as stated before. Tape up and secure the harnesses and the pressure sensor. Remove entire exhaust from the turbo back. Procure your favorite exhaust system. Any exhaust 4” or 5” for a 04.5 and up 5.9 Cummins will fit. Install exhaust.
You will have to drop the transmission cross member to remove the down pipe. The easiest way to accomplish this is to support the tranny with a good sturdy jack. Remove the bolts on the passenger side, loosen the bolts on the driver side, and let the cross member swing down.
07-12-2010, 10:01 AM
#3
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Now to the EGR deletes.
California Deletes: This method is not really a delete, per say, its more or less just disabling the EGR system in place. This will allow for quick return to stock in the event that it is needed.
Here is what needs to be done.
Smarty Tuner
Remove the EGR servo motor by removing 4 phillips head screws.
Locate the egr acutator plunger. Turn the ignition key to the run position. The plunger will extend.
Remove the plunger and spring.
Replace the EGR actuator motor. Leave the actuator plugged in.
Unplug the Throttle Valve connector
and unplug the EGR Cooler Servo
H&S Tuner
The EGR actuator motor and the Throttle valve connector must be unplugged.
__________________________________________________ ___________
Now on to a little more hardware removal.
Blake style deletes: This method will remove any and all of the EGR system and allow for clean air in, black smoke out.
To do this you will need to purchase an EGR and EGR Cooler delete kit. I also recommend the Throttle valve delete.
EGR delete.
I will link to the H&S instructions on the EGR and Cooler delete. Their write up is what I used and is very comprehensive.
It can be found here…. DELETE
It says that it is to be used with the Black Maxx tuner, but can also be used with the Smarty.
With the Smarty, the EGR actuator motor must remain plugged in, zip tie it out of the way.
With the H&S tuners, the EGR actuator motor need not remain.
California Deletes: This method is not really a delete, per say, its more or less just disabling the EGR system in place. This will allow for quick return to stock in the event that it is needed.
Here is what needs to be done.
Remove the EGR servo motor by removing 4 phillips head screws.
Locate the egr acutator plunger. Turn the ignition key to the run position. The plunger will extend.
Remove the plunger and spring.
Replace the EGR actuator motor. Leave the actuator plugged in.
Unplug the Throttle Valve connector
and unplug the EGR Cooler Servo
The EGR actuator motor and the Throttle valve connector must be unplugged.
__________________________________________________ ___________
Now on to a little more hardware removal.
Blake style deletes: This method will remove any and all of the EGR system and allow for clean air in, black smoke out.
To do this you will need to purchase an EGR and EGR Cooler delete kit. I also recommend the Throttle valve delete.
EGR delete.
I will link to the H&S instructions on the EGR and Cooler delete. Their write up is what I used and is very comprehensive.
It can be found here…. DELETE
It says that it is to be used with the Black Maxx tuner, but can also be used with the Smarty.
With the Smarty, the EGR actuator motor must remain plugged in, zip tie it out of the way.
With the H&S tuners, the EGR actuator motor need not remain.
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kurshyd (05-15-2018)
07-12-2010, 10:02 AM
#4
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Throttle Valve Delete
I also recommend removing the throttle valve assembly. It removes the butterfly valve and leaves ZERO chance of it accidentally closing.
This is a picture of a TVD (this is a Shibby, there are others on the market)
It replaced the entire throttle valve assembly shown here.
It is installed by removing the four bolts that hold the Throttle valve assembly in place, removing the boot clamp, and then reinstalling.
Here is a picture of it installed.
Another viable option, and one I chose on my 2011, was to forgo the EGR delete and the throttle valve delete. A good intake horn will take care of all of that. All that needs to be done is remove the factory intake with the throttle valve in tow, and then install the cooler only deletes.
I also recommend removing the throttle valve assembly. It removes the butterfly valve and leaves ZERO chance of it accidentally closing.
This is a picture of a TVD (this is a Shibby, there are others on the market)
It replaced the entire throttle valve assembly shown here.
It is installed by removing the four bolts that hold the Throttle valve assembly in place, removing the boot clamp, and then reinstalling.
Here is a picture of it installed.
Another viable option, and one I chose on my 2011, was to forgo the EGR delete and the throttle valve delete. A good intake horn will take care of all of that. All that needs to be done is remove the factory intake with the throttle valve in tow, and then install the cooler only deletes.
07-12-2010, 10:03 AM
#5
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Now, lets talk about monitoring.
When changing the hardware and reprogramming the 6.7, or any engine for that matter, it should be prudent to keep an eye on parameters so that you have an idea of what is going on with your rig. Some type of gauge system should be installed to monitor these parameters, at the least, the EGT, Boost and Transmission temps.
There are two types of setups that one use. The digital gauge system, such as an Edge Insight. This simply plugs into the vehicles OBDII port and gives a heads up display for whichever parameters you choose. For EGT’s however, you must tap the exhaust system. Some guys like to tap the blocker plate that is installed on a EGR Cooler delete, but it is debatable whether or not this gives an accurate reading.
The best place to tap is the collector on the exhaust manifold, pre turbo.
If installing manual gauges, specifically a boost gauge, take a bit of advice from my experience. Do not use a boost bolt. It was causing trouble and inaccurate readings on my truck. Tap the EGR blocker plate on the intake. It easy to do with it off the vehicle and gives good results.
Well, I hope most of this makes sense, and good luck to you in your modding!
All pictures are courtesy of MADS, H&S, Rollin Smoke Diesel, and myself.
When changing the hardware and reprogramming the 6.7, or any engine for that matter, it should be prudent to keep an eye on parameters so that you have an idea of what is going on with your rig. Some type of gauge system should be installed to monitor these parameters, at the least, the EGT, Boost and Transmission temps.
There are two types of setups that one use. The digital gauge system, such as an Edge Insight. This simply plugs into the vehicles OBDII port and gives a heads up display for whichever parameters you choose. For EGT’s however, you must tap the exhaust system. Some guys like to tap the blocker plate that is installed on a EGR Cooler delete, but it is debatable whether or not this gives an accurate reading.
The best place to tap is the collector on the exhaust manifold, pre turbo.
If installing manual gauges, specifically a boost gauge, take a bit of advice from my experience. Do not use a boost bolt. It was causing trouble and inaccurate readings on my truck. Tap the EGR blocker plate on the intake. It easy to do with it off the vehicle and gives good results.
Well, I hope most of this makes sense, and good luck to you in your modding!
All pictures are courtesy of MADS, H&S, Rollin Smoke Diesel, and myself.
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kurshyd (05-15-2018)
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07-12-2010, 12:11 PM
#8
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
98, unfortunately, the 6.7 ECM retains so many parameters its next to impossible to run tuners without being detected. Will there be a work around, maybe, but I don't see it, but if it happens, Ive got my money on Marco figuring it out.
07-12-2010, 07:01 PM
#10
Registered User
I've been wondering if anyone is putting a fully EPA deleted 6.7 in a truck like mine that doesn't have any of that stuff to begin with or worry about in an e-test. Opacity is all they test for here on my 03. Does a fully EPA deleted 6.7 run any better than the 5.9? Will it bolt up in place of a 5.9? Can the electronics be made to work in CR 5.9 truck? TIA! Craig
07-12-2010, 07:04 PM
#11
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Well I would say yes, but it would be tricky. The best route would be to go with a 6.7 block with 5.9 head. 6.7 displacement, 5.9 attitude.
Win win in my book.
As far a a drop in 6.7, not sure how the ECM would work in the 03 and if the Canbus system used in 06 and up has any factor in it...
Where is Chris Brah when you need him. I bet he could tell you for sure.
Win win in my book.
As far a a drop in 6.7, not sure how the ECM would work in the 03 and if the Canbus system used in 06 and up has any factor in it...
Where is Chris Brah when you need him. I bet he could tell you for sure.
07-12-2010, 09:29 PM
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Great, now you've done it. With this well informed write up with pictures and all, you've created this monster in me that HAS to do this now. Great Job Thanks, Sam
07-12-2010, 10:39 PM
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Performance Difference
Blake style deletes: This method will remove any and all of the EGR system and allow for clean air in, black smoke out.
A COUPLE MORE QUESTIONS BETWEEN THE DIFFERENCES THAT MAY BE DUMB BUT IM GETTING READY TO HIT A BUMP AND HAVE ALL THIS STUFF FALL OFF.
1. IS THERE ANY DIFFERENCE PERFORMANCE WISE BETWEEN THE TWO DIFFERENT "STYLES" OF DELETES OR IS IT ALL COSMETIC UNDER THE HOOD.
2. WILL THE "MEGA STYLE" DELETE NOT SMOKE AS MUCH?
A COUPLE MORE QUESTIONS BETWEEN THE DIFFERENCES THAT MAY BE DUMB BUT IM GETTING READY TO HIT A BUMP AND HAVE ALL THIS STUFF FALL OFF.
1. IS THERE ANY DIFFERENCE PERFORMANCE WISE BETWEEN THE TWO DIFFERENT "STYLES" OF DELETES OR IS IT ALL COSMETIC UNDER THE HOOD.
2. WILL THE "MEGA STYLE" DELETE NOT SMOKE AS MUCH?
07-13-2010, 07:08 AM
#15
Administrator / Severe Concussion Aficionado
Thread Starter
Smoke output will be the same on both.
Full deletes will lend to cooler EGT's.
Performance wise, very little is gained in the Hp/Torque side of things.
It does clean up the engine bay dramatically and make working under the hood a lot easier.
Not to mention you lose about 50-60 lbs of junk off the engine.
If you are in an area where emissions testing is a way of life, then do the minimal deletes. If you dont have to worry about it, like my area, yank that junk off!
Full deletes will lend to cooler EGT's.
Performance wise, very little is gained in the Hp/Torque side of things.
It does clean up the engine bay dramatically and make working under the hood a lot easier.
Not to mention you lose about 50-60 lbs of junk off the engine.
If you are in an area where emissions testing is a way of life, then do the minimal deletes. If you dont have to worry about it, like my area, yank that junk off!
