See my signiture...have never used my truck for towing duties, just dirtbike hauling....but looking into getting a 25-30' toy hauler type trailer....

Need some suggestions on what i should do to improving towing capabilities??

1. Obvously turn down programmer (run TNT-R or Beta 4.4) for daily driving...that's not going to cut it for towing (smoke, EGT's,...)....what do you smarty users use for towing settings?
2. Airbags? Have full leaf replacements in the rear so going to be softer than stock...assume some airbags to keep level would be legit.
3. Brake Controller - Dont even know what the hell this is, other than people seem to need them too tow - inputs / suggestins appreciated.
4. BD Towing twins work better than my single 62/13ss? e.g. less lag/smoke? Worth the change?
5. What else?

FYI, looking at hitch pull, not 5th wheel as i dont want to fart around with the hitch in the bed for when i just want to throw bikes back there...and i'm not spending 40k on a trailer...just keeping is simple...

Thanks in advance...

 

1. Obvously turn down programmer (run TNT-R or Beta 4.4) for daily driving...that's not going to cut it for towing (smoke, EGT's,...)....what do you smarty users use for towing settings?

Smarty's have a "tow" setting that you can use while towing. The folks at MADS make it really easy to take the guesswork out of using the Smarty.



2. Airbags? Have full leaf replacements in the rear so going to be softer than stock...assume some airbags to keep level would be legit.

Air bags will help even out the load and make the ride a much nicer one while towing. I wouldn't remove the leaf springs, just the overloads. Here's an example:





3. Brake Controller - Dont even know what the hell this is, other than people seem to need them too tow - inputs / suggestins appreciated.

When you apply the brakes on the truck the controller activates the brakes on the trailer so you slow down together without putting too much strain on either the truck or the trailer by themselves. The brake controller you end up getting totally depends on the type of brakes that are on the trailer.



4. BD Towing twins work better than my single 62/13ss? e.g. less lag/smoke? Worth the change?

Of course they'll help, but it's an expensive upgrade. If you're pulling a lot of weight and/or running through mountain passes where you'd need the added air, then I would consider them. You know your truck; how does it handle what you're towing now?



5. What else?

I'd look at the torque converter/valve body upgrades, a deeper pan, maybe heavier input/output shafts, and definately a set of gauges .... especially a tranny temp gauge.





Kris

 

I haul my camper all the time running on TNT.(NOT -R). I even leave it on Sw9. The only thing I do is turn the timing down to TM4, & let my right foot do the rest. I don't have any problems in the mountains with my 62/65/13SS either. It spools just fine. Sometimes I'll need to manually downshift into 2nd to get the rpm where I want them on steep winding grades. Manually shifting will let the T/C lock up in 2nd. I dodn't know about TNT-R, but I'll assume you might want to turn it down some when you tow, but it's easy to test out where you want to set it.

 

You'll definitely need a brake controller with a trailer. There is a blue plug on the firewall up near where the parking brake cable comes thru into which you plug the controller cable.

 

I have the BD twins and love them for towing,I have pulled mile(s) long 7% grades and steeper andI can keep the Egt's between 11-1200.

I have the tnt-r set on 5 towing and none towing. I have air bags helps to level the load when firewood is in the bed.

I changed the gearing before the twins, because of the mountain areas I like to travel to with real slow switch backs.

I haul a 27' toy hauler, dry-9600 trailer loaded with water gas and propane 12,600 then add bikes and most of the time firewood, no problems towing.

 

Regarding brake controllers, get a maxbrake. There are others that are cheaper, but this one is one of 2 PROPORTIONAL brake controllers out there. The harder you step on the brakes, the harder the trailer brakes come on. If you hit a slippery section and have a inertia or timed controller you'll be in heap big trouble!!! Ask me how I know!!!

 

MAXBRAKE controller.

Best hitch rigging (ProPride or Pullrite or Hensley hitch).

Best hitch rigging practice: Set up on a public weight scale using formula for weight distribution. Proper loading and accurate numbers make for E-Z towing. Badly done, or ignoring required or recommended equipment/practices makes the performance envelope too narrow for when it counts.

Truck spec: avoid tuners, in general.

Tires: air up according to load (scale weight) and manufacturer Load & Pressure Table (stay within Dodge recommendations FF/RR and overall).

Check for, and eliminate, and steering lash problems as well as worn front end componentry. Trailering accidents are almost always about loss of steering control. Take control of the margins on this.

Use MODULITE to run trailer wiring connection.

Downstream ATF filter and temp gauge. Deeper pan always a good idea.

Reduced service intervals.

60 mph tow speed.

LED exterior lamps on trailer

Upgrade trailer brakes to disc

Alignment of trailer axles (even brand new unit); and look into VERY BEST quality trailer tires (or upgrades) as the RV manufacturers are notorious for minimum spec axles/tires, etc.

Good luck

.

 

How do you like your F1 50HP and the HTT 62/65/13SS---.I'm looking at that set up too but my 07 5.9 DRW mega is my daily driver and i don"t tow very much anymore---RV is parked in a gated lake community all year round.Just looking to step it up a notch similar to what you have now--Cheers DW

 

Didnt get the sticks yet...had a problem with the apointment...love the turbo though....give me a few more weeks and i'll let you know.

JG

 

I like the B&W turn over ball with the filth wheel companion.....that way you can have a flat empty bed for bikes.......Smarty tuner can improve your fuel mileage and towing power.....not sure why you would avoid it........exhaust brake if you plan to descend steep grades.......air bags for sure.........no need for ATF filter or deep tranny pan if you aren't pulling heavy......gauges......E rated tires.....brake controller is a must.

 

thanks---dw

 

Ok, so rented a toy hauler this weekend....approx 10k lbs loaded....

I admit i dont know how to tow with my truck....headed up north of phoenix and there's a pretty steep / long grade....truck overheated just at the top and i coasted over and it cooled down....

Few questions:

- Do i need to change the coolant?
- anything else i should check / do?

Was running smarty tnt lvl 3, rp 2, tm 2, tqm 2....egt's stayed good, boost good, trans temp good...everything good except water temp....

?? Jacked up thermostat? running too much timming? any other thoughts on water temp issue?

 

Timing -2 is too advanced for heavy loads. I use Tm-4 when I load up my camper. That will raise EGT's slightly but should help lower coolant temp a little. What exactly do you mean by overheated? Did the fan clutch lock up, & scare the $--T out of you?(Thats what mine did once) Or did the needle rise above where you're used to?
What gear were you in, & what RPM were you pulling the grade? I know the grade you're talking about. Lived in Phoenix for 3 yrs in college. Was it 100* outside?
Have you ever blown out the radiator/aftercooler from the back before to clean them out?
The more info we have the better we can help.

 

Overheated = coolant temp got to the limit (but not in red) and "check gauges" light came...was just at the top of the grade so came down within a minute or two...
3rd gear / 2500 rpm - 60mph
90ish on outside temps
Changed to timing 3 on the way back and seemed better, but fewer uphills heading south.

 

With your sticks I'd stay with either TM4, or stock for towing. The aftemarket sticks have the effect of advancing the timing all by themselves, so your actual timing will be more advanced than mine.
If I remember right the 06's have a different T/H mode than my 04.5, so I'll ask if the T/C was locked up in 3rd going up the grade? If it wasn't then that adds a lot of heat for the cooling system to dissipate.
Your sticks are the only real difference between our trucks, so I'm interested in the outcome of this for myself. I usually do most of my hauling during the fall so temps are lower, but I have hauled my camper once during high temps, & never got too hot. I had the fan clutch lock up once & it was so loud that I bailed out of the throttle to see what the noise was, & it stopped almost immediately. I'd still make sure the radiator fins are clean, if you haven't already, & try a little less timing. If that doesn't help, I'd look into a radiator flush, & thermostat.