Ok, so I'm new to diesels and the truck in my sig. I bought the truck for weekend towing, and to be my daily driver. So far I'm impressed w/ the power but 37's and 3.73's dont really give me the jump off the line I'd really prefer. However, on the Highway, she still pulls hard at 90mph.

So far my biggest concern is the fact that the overhead fuel mileage calculator isn't the most accurate even though the speedo is correct. My last tank was around 18.5 on the console but I calculated more like 14-15. Anyone else experience this? Driving from Houston to Atlanta with the wind at my back I was seeing tanks as high as 24-26mpgs on the consol!

As for mods I think I should start with an intake seeing how the exhaust has been done. My plan is to improve mileage and performace all at the same time but I do not want to sacrifice reliability. Typical. I was thinking an edge juice with att. because I like the gauges feature which if I went with a smarty there'd be a huge added cost of adequate gauges.

Anyone have any input on some sort of build order or "plan" for doing it right the first time? I know these newb questions get old, but im a fast learner.

 

First, the overhead fuel mileage calculator is also affectionately known as the "lie-O-meter"... it is not accurate for anyone and becomes less accurate with increasing mods.

Well let's start by addressing some of the weak areas. With increased power comes the need for increased fuel supply (in tank lift pump replacement) and adequate filtering of that fuel. Many injector faliures can be traced back to inadequate filtering. The stock filter doesn't quite cut it. There are several alternatives to research... from a full blown FASS or Air Dog to smaller pumps and DIY filter kits. The next weak point, from an added performance standpoint, is the tranny. You don't say whether you have a Auto or manual, but from about an additional 75hp up,(many will say 100hp, but I am being conservative for your sake, especially with the 37's) either needs to be addressed. The clutch will slip/the torque converter will slip. Upgrades are usually needed for either, especially if you tow with the performance upgrades, especially with those 37's. Dropping to 35's will improve performance and mileage if that is a possibility for you.

Edge makes a good product; also look at Bully Dog and Quadzilla who also make a similar product with built in gauges.

Good luck!

 

About the overhead: On a recent unloaded run to Western Nebraska, I hand-calc'd a tank at 19.5 MPG. The overhead read...(wait for it)...31.1 MPG! LOL!

My modest mods are in my sig. The Quad box was set at +100 HP.

 

What I should have offered above is also the proviso of the higher in HP you go the more you will need to do... you did not state a HP goal. What I offered above was based on a milder (125 hp or less) upgrade that you would see from using one of the aforementioned tuners... without using hot unlock, crazy larry or stuff like that.

 

Do you have an auto or stick. If you have a stick and add hp, with 37" tires, a clutch will be in the very near future for you. I don't have much experience with the auto, but 100hp, 37" tires, and a heavy right foot, I would say tranny upgrades will probably be needed too.
Will

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have an auto. I am allready fed up with the 1-2 shift issue so I was planning on a valve body upgrade in the future. TC is a whole lot of coin but from what I hear it is a good idea. So far my biggest concern is getting the fuel consumption down a bit since the hand calculations turned out way lower than the overhead reading. The speedo and shift points have been reset so I'm thinking a tuner should help out.

Does anyone have any input on regearing cost vs return on fuel mileage?

 

A valve body and torque convertor upgrage would be a very good idea. I know there are other guys on here that have regeared so hopefully they can help you out, but I would think a 4.56 would put you close to stock rpm's. I know that spinning 37's will hurt your mileage some no matter what you do, they do look sweet though.
Will

 

Yeah there is no doubt that the 37's are awsome. I was pricing out 4.56's yesterday. How can I tell if I have a 10.5 or 11.5 rear end?

 

No worries,

You definitely have a 11.5 rear end.

10.5 was only put on some of the early 03's.

 

k. good. Lots more gear sets and cheaper too. Any reccomendations on what the best cold air intake is? Any "tests" or shootouts out there to read? I've been leaning towards the AFE.

 

AFE is great but pricey. Loud whistler
I would also look at S&B, well built intake for quite abit less

*****'s Whistler do a search on the forums, you can build your own intake for relatively cheaper.

I have the AFE and love it, but it was my first official mod when i got the truck, so its been over a couple of years now.

 

Theres so much mixed info what are good parts and what are better parts for these trucks it can make your head hurt. I'm all about doing it right the first time but also dont have a ton of extra cash as this truck is my daily driver and weekend hauler for my rock crawler. Is there any home brew mods I need to look into?

 

Look up the thread for "*****'s Whisler" -- hands down best DIY intake.

 

After some quick research on the ****** intake and the cost of the AFE!!! I think I'll be doing a DIY intake for sure. I"m an amsoil preferred customer so that should help with the cost of the filter at least. I had no idea the AFE was so much coin.

 

Look at the S&B also, many ppl love them and love the price compared to the AFE. If you have the time and want to do it the DIY intake is very well thought out and will be a little cheaper in parts than any of them.