Tips/tools for ATS ex. manifold/06/just finished job
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Tips for ATS ex. manifold install on 2006
Hello. I just finished putting the ATS exhaust manifold on. It was not that bad at all. I set aside a block of hours on a Sat. morn. and just relaxed & turned wrenches. I wanted to report on it while it was fresh in my mind
Useful tools:
-a 2' or more 1/2 drive extension and a 15mm swivel socket for getting inside the two turbo bolts from bottom of car
-a deep 15mm for heat shield and back bottom manifold bolt (w/water hose)
-a 10mm socket (1/4'' is cool) for water line under manifold, behind oil filter, for getting to rear/bottom heat shield nut
-a 13mm socket for bolt from water hose to block in back under manifold and the manifold-head bolts (they were not that tight, I did most with a 1/4'' socket, extension/ratchet)
-a good 15mm wrench for outer two turbo bolts (I used a 12 point, but I will buy a 6 point when I can)
It was not that bad at all. I hit one roadblock (needed a 15mm swivel socket, of course Sears was out of that one size, so I bought a wobbly-ended, very short, 1/2'' extension and normal 15mm socket-it worked, not as good as a true swivel though). After I got back from Sears, I never had tool needs again.
The rear heater hose bracket was no problem at all. Just take the 15mm nut off of the #6/bottom stud, take the 13mm bolt off of the water line bracket under the #6 exh. port/close to rear of block, and take the 10mm bolt off under the #2 port (which you have to to get the heater line out of the way to get to the bottom/#2 manifold bolt and heat shield nut). When you do all the thw whole heater hose is held on with a rubber hose in the front and the back. It moves anyway you wish.
The only weird thing was the manifold-turbo flange from the factory was thicker than the one from ATS. Actually the one from ATS was just as thick, but the bolt faces were cut down. Now, I think (not sure) at some point in 06, a new exh. manifold was started (you can see photos at Dieselmanor.com of the 2 diff. kinds, look in the Dodge/thermocouple install page). So, the smooth/inside section of the studs was too long. If the studs are in all the way and the nuts are tightend down, you run out of thread before the turbo comes flush against the manifold. So, a few washers fixed that up. Any questions shoot away. I am going camping for a few days tomorrow morning. I will check back late tonight and when I return.
I hope this helps. I have worked on hot rods since before I was 16 and I worked at my brothers automotive shop on and off for years in my teens & twenties. I am 38 and have not turned wrenches for $$$ in well over a decade and I have so-so tools (my only 15mm wrench was a POS no name).
So, anyone with a typical set of garage tools and a back ground of taking cars apart and putting them back together should be able to do this no problem. The important thing is to set aside like half a day, turn on the stereo, and relax (don't hit the beers to fast until it is all going good for sure)
I hope others will go for this themselves.
FYI
Useful tools:
-a 2' or more 1/2 drive extension and a 15mm swivel socket for getting inside the two turbo bolts from bottom of car
-a deep 15mm for heat shield and back bottom manifold bolt (w/water hose)
-a 10mm socket (1/4'' is cool) for water line under manifold, behind oil filter, for getting to rear/bottom heat shield nut
-a 13mm socket for bolt from water hose to block in back under manifold and the manifold-head bolts (they were not that tight, I did most with a 1/4'' socket, extension/ratchet)
-a good 15mm wrench for outer two turbo bolts (I used a 12 point, but I will buy a 6 point when I can)
It was not that bad at all. I hit one roadblock (needed a 15mm swivel socket, of course Sears was out of that one size, so I bought a wobbly-ended, very short, 1/2'' extension and normal 15mm socket-it worked, not as good as a true swivel though). After I got back from Sears, I never had tool needs again.
The rear heater hose bracket was no problem at all. Just take the 15mm nut off of the #6/bottom stud, take the 13mm bolt off of the water line bracket under the #6 exh. port/close to rear of block, and take the 10mm bolt off under the #2 port (which you have to to get the heater line out of the way to get to the bottom/#2 manifold bolt and heat shield nut). When you do all the thw whole heater hose is held on with a rubber hose in the front and the back. It moves anyway you wish.
The only weird thing was the manifold-turbo flange from the factory was thicker than the one from ATS. Actually the one from ATS was just as thick, but the bolt faces were cut down. Now, I think (not sure) at some point in 06, a new exh. manifold was started (you can see photos at Dieselmanor.com of the 2 diff. kinds, look in the Dodge/thermocouple install page). So, the smooth/inside section of the studs was too long. If the studs are in all the way and the nuts are tightend down, you run out of thread before the turbo comes flush against the manifold. So, a few washers fixed that up. Any questions shoot away. I am going camping for a few days tomorrow morning. I will check back late tonight and when I return.
I hope this helps. I have worked on hot rods since before I was 16 and I worked at my brothers automotive shop on and off for years in my teens & twenties. I am 38 and have not turned wrenches for $$$ in well over a decade and I have so-so tools (my only 15mm wrench was a POS no name).
So, anyone with a typical set of garage tools and a back ground of taking cars apart and putting them back together should be able to do this no problem. The important thing is to set aside like half a day, turn on the stereo, and relax (don't hit the beers to fast until it is all going good for sure)
I hope others will go for this themselves.
FYI
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: SoCal
I just looked at the photos:
http://dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS3-gaug...ugeinstall.htm
Both kinds of 06 manifolds look like the bottom flange on the factory manifold is the dame thickness. So, who know, but grab some washers.
http://dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS3-gaug...ugeinstall.htm
Both kinds of 06 manifolds look like the bottom flange on the factory manifold is the dame thickness. So, who know, but grab some washers.
Thread Starter
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From: SoCal
I will report back on EGT's, you bet. There is one seriously long, mean hill. I will get the ambient temp., EGT, speed, and RPM & gear.
I wonder how much EGT's will differ from a thermocouple location change. The factory manifold I removed had the thermocouple above the turbo flange under # 5. The ATS unit has the thermocouple on the top of the manifold after #3.
I did not do a test on the same hill/speed/etc. with the manifolds.
I did think that it sounded different when I first started it up. And it probably does sound different. But it is slight enough that after a little run around the neighborhood I could not tell annymore. I can't tell if there is a diff. in power, I did not get space to floor it.
I wonder how much EGT's will differ from a thermocouple location change. The factory manifold I removed had the thermocouple above the turbo flange under # 5. The ATS unit has the thermocouple on the top of the manifold after #3.
I did not do a test on the same hill/speed/etc. with the manifolds.
I did think that it sounded different when I first started it up. And it probably does sound different. But it is slight enough that after a little run around the neighborhood I could not tell annymore. I can't tell if there is a diff. in power, I did not get space to floor it.
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Hello. I just finished putting the ATS exhaust manifold on. It was not that bad at all. I set aside a block of hours on a Sat. morn. and just relaxed & turned wrenches. I wanted to report on it while it was fresh in my mind
Useful tools:
-a 2' or more 1/2 drive extension and a 15mm swivel socket for getting inside the two turbo bolts from bottom of car
-a deep 15mm for heat shield and back bottom manifold bolt (w/water hose)
-a 10mm socket (1/4'' is cool) for water line under manifold, behind oil filter, for getting to rear/bottom heat shield nut
-a 13mm socket for bolt from water hose to block in back under manifold and the manifold-head bolts (they were not that tight, I did most with a 1/4'' socket, extension/ratchet)
-a good 15mm wrench for outer two turbo bolts (I used a 12 point, but I will buy a 6 point when I can)
It was not that bad at all. I hit one roadblock (needed a 15mm swivel socket, of course Sears was out of that one size, so I bought a wobbly-ended, very short, 1/2'' extension and normal 15mm socket-it worked, not as good as a true swivel though). After I got back from Sears, I never had tool needs again.
The rear heater hose bracket was no problem at all. Just take the 15mm nut off of the #6/bottom stud, take the 13mm bolt off of the water line bracket under the #6 exh. port/close to rear of block, and take the 10mm bolt off under the #2 port (which you have to to get the heater line out of the way to get to the bottom/#2 manifold bolt and heat shield nut). When you do all the thw whole heater hose is held on with a rubber hose in the front and the back. It moves anyway you wish.
The only weird thing was the manifold-turbo flange from the factory was thicker than the one from ATS. Actually the one from ATS was just as thick, but the bolt faces were cut down. Now, I think (not sure) at some point in 06, a new exh. manifold was started (you can see photos at Dieselmanor.com of the 2 diff. kinds, look in the Dodge/thermocouple install page). So, the smooth/inside section of the studs was too long. If the studs are in all the way and the nuts are tightend down, you run out of thread before the turbo comes flush against the manifold. So, a few washers fixed that up. Any questions shoot away. I am going camping for a few days tomorrow morning. I will check back late tonight and when I return.
I hope this helps. I have worked on hot rods since before I was 16 and I worked at my brothers automotive shop on and off for years in my teens & twenties. I am 38 and have not turned wrenches for $$$ in well over a decade and I have so-so tools (my only 15mm wrench was a POS no name).
So, anyone with a typical set of garage tools and a back ground of taking cars apart and putting them back together should be able to do this no problem. The important thing is to set aside like half a day, turn on the stereo, and relax (don't hit the beers to fast until it is all going good for sure)
I hope others will go for this themselves.
FYI
Useful tools:
-a 2' or more 1/2 drive extension and a 15mm swivel socket for getting inside the two turbo bolts from bottom of car
-a deep 15mm for heat shield and back bottom manifold bolt (w/water hose)
-a 10mm socket (1/4'' is cool) for water line under manifold, behind oil filter, for getting to rear/bottom heat shield nut
-a 13mm socket for bolt from water hose to block in back under manifold and the manifold-head bolts (they were not that tight, I did most with a 1/4'' socket, extension/ratchet)
-a good 15mm wrench for outer two turbo bolts (I used a 12 point, but I will buy a 6 point when I can)
It was not that bad at all. I hit one roadblock (needed a 15mm swivel socket, of course Sears was out of that one size, so I bought a wobbly-ended, very short, 1/2'' extension and normal 15mm socket-it worked, not as good as a true swivel though). After I got back from Sears, I never had tool needs again.
The rear heater hose bracket was no problem at all. Just take the 15mm nut off of the #6/bottom stud, take the 13mm bolt off of the water line bracket under the #6 exh. port/close to rear of block, and take the 10mm bolt off under the #2 port (which you have to to get the heater line out of the way to get to the bottom/#2 manifold bolt and heat shield nut). When you do all the thw whole heater hose is held on with a rubber hose in the front and the back. It moves anyway you wish.
The only weird thing was the manifold-turbo flange from the factory was thicker than the one from ATS. Actually the one from ATS was just as thick, but the bolt faces were cut down. Now, I think (not sure) at some point in 06, a new exh. manifold was started (you can see photos at Dieselmanor.com of the 2 diff. kinds, look in the Dodge/thermocouple install page). So, the smooth/inside section of the studs was too long. If the studs are in all the way and the nuts are tightend down, you run out of thread before the turbo comes flush against the manifold. So, a few washers fixed that up. Any questions shoot away. I am going camping for a few days tomorrow morning. I will check back late tonight and when I return.
I hope this helps. I have worked on hot rods since before I was 16 and I worked at my brothers automotive shop on and off for years in my teens & twenties. I am 38 and have not turned wrenches for $$$ in well over a decade and I have so-so tools (my only 15mm wrench was a POS no name).
So, anyone with a typical set of garage tools and a back ground of taking cars apart and putting them back together should be able to do this no problem. The important thing is to set aside like half a day, turn on the stereo, and relax (don't hit the beers to fast until it is all going good for sure)
I hope others will go for this themselves.
FYI
i used your info during my install today and it was a great help.
the manifold is in with the stock hardware, gaskets, water line bracket uncut, and even the heat sheild went back on with a little custom shaping.
jeff
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jmccart, I'm anxious to see if you notice any real improvements over the stock manifold. I changed mine out last weekend to the ATS manifold and I don't see anything to write about as far as big improvements. It looks alot better is all.
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I never retorqued mine. When I got my after market turbo, I used the thick, composite gasket that came w/it. It blew out pulling a trailer home from a trip. That as really annoying. Since I changed the gasket, I have rechecked the bolts/studs one time. They were still tight.
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I don't recall feeling anything huge (or small maybe). It was some time ago. I did a lame job on the probe install on the stocker. It bugged me. The only way to have it stop bugging me was to replace it.
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I never retorqued mine. When I got my after market turbo, I used the thick, composite gasket that came w/it. It blew out pulling a trailer home from a trip. That as really annoying. Since I changed the gasket, I have rechecked the bolts/studs one time. They were still tight.
i'll let it go for awhile. i'm just going through the "i don't remember that sound" jitters... like i do after everything i do.
now that i've done this once i think i could probably replace all the gaskets in about 2 hours........ i think.
j
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