Evening gentlemen.
I am on a time budget and I need my ride back. I took leave for a climbing trip and came back early due to weather so after 2 8hr days at the hobby shop, I stand with the cam, valvesprings and most outer accessories reinstalled with one valve lock in the oil pan. I allready have the pan onbolted and the whole front end is still off. but the pan wont clear the tranny or crossmember. whats the quickest way to get that lock out of there? Are we talking about pulling the motor mounts and cherrypickin the engine? or pullin the tranny back?
any help apreciated.

 

Look who it is...

Here's what my svc manual says...

OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(6) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(7) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(8) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(10) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(11) Remove oil pan and suction tube.

CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective component.
Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.


INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing
and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
Mopart Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N·m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N·m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.

So.... I would assume....

Hope things get better for ya...

 

did you try draining the oil out of the pan? it might come out with the oil

 

After draining the oil,if its still in there try fishing around with one of those flexible wands with a magnetic end.You should have enough of a gap to get one of those in there.

 

I was going to mention it, but he's a pretty smart guy, figured that he would have already thought of that.

 

When I'm racking my brain out over a problem sometimes I overlook the simple approach.

 

yeah the magnet was an option i am going to try today i got about an inch gap. i hope the lock is magnetic. also we came up with a shop vac and a keyboard fitting. the oil was drained when it happened so i poured about a gallon down the pushrod gallery to try and flush it out but no joy.

thanks everyone for the help.

 

Might not even have to "fish" inside. Just drag the magnet across the pan slowly and pull it toward the drain. A little oil in there might help reduce the drag on it. Might look into one of the neodynium magnets or whatever, something real strong.

 

If there are any large dairy farms in your area, ask someone there
if you can buy a magnetic they put in their cows stomach. New $2.00.
Every cow you see in pasture has one in their stomach, They are small
but are very strong. Run it across the bottom of your pan.

 

what..................in the cow's stomach, whats that do

 

That's in case they drop any parts when they overhaul her!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Some cows get hardware, nail, wire or something else metal in their gut, it can make them sick or eevn kill them so some folk that suspect hardware drop a magnet in them, the metal stays attached to the magnet and in a lot of cases won't hurt a thing.

 

Cut the cross member and weld it back in..... it is simple.

 

Every time I pulled my pan I just loosened the MMs and jacked the left side of the engine. You'll have to unbolt the fan shroud.
Good luck,
Topper

 

It can be done in 8 hours....You'll be haulin A though... Dodge tech flat rate..............Flat rate is 10 from what I have been told for
R&R

 

8Hrs!!! I had #6 out - block honed and a new slug back in the hole and bottom end buttoned back up in about 8 hrs.
This doesn't count taking off the head though. That was done the day before.
Topper