Having trouble finding the headlight wire. I am not looking for the DIMMER, just a wire that is hot when the headlights are on.

I think this has been a common problem with people installing the new Di-Pricols.

If you hook into a dimmer wire (which everyone with standard lit gauges would) your individual LED dimmers are useless.

I have poked every wire behind the headlight switch with no luck. Heck, one of them even makes my "dinger" go off until I pull the fuse on the fog lights and stick it back it

If I just use a 12V ign. my gauges will be lit during that day, which I don't want.


Any ideas where to find a headlights on/hot wire? I can tell you for a fact it is not behind the headlight switch

 

is the headlight switch plugged in while you are checking for power?(it would have to be right)

My optix does not have the dimmers so I tapped off the dimmer power.

Cant you tap off the dimmer and just use the optix dimmers to fine tune the gauges?
or does it dim your dash lights too?

 

Yeah, if I tap off of any of the wires that are dimmed by the (you guessed it) dimmer, I am going have the same complaints you have about inconsistant brightness.

I got the gauges and harness(s) from Diesel Manor, all three have their own individual tiny dimmer **** wired into the wires behind the gauge.

How in the world can I poke ALL of the wires behind the gauge and not get one that is just ON/OFF?

Starting to tick me off, I have evey other thing ready now, pyro probe done, FP all plumbed (a whopping 8 psi at idle).

There has to be one somewhere I can tap, it's so tight up in there.....

 

have u tried to hook it up to the OEM dimmer and see if the optix dimmers still work?

 

Matter of fact, yes I did. And some how they DO.

Don't ask me how, But I can run the dimmer wheel all the way OFF and still jack the LEDS all the way up??

Dunno.

My EGT is acting stupid now. I tested it out before I heat shrunk all the wiring, it came up to about 250, looked fine.

On my new gauges test ride it was showing 800 at idle sitting still. I hit 1500 on the hill down the road from my house.

No way. Something is whacky with it. My ground and 12V+ are straight to the battery for the thermocouple power.

?

 

you need to grab/tap you power from the Ignition.
so your all good now?

 

if you don't have power pedals I would try getting it from the pedal plug.

 

You're talking my pyro now, right? I

I think I'm an idiot.

I took the directions to mean battery + as BATTERY +

I have my positive tied into the lug you would take a jump start from, there I admitted it.

I'm going to go out and get it hooked up to a ignition + in a few minutes here.

 

Yes, I was talking pyro.

maybe this well help........... or not

pyro and boost lights power=oem dimmer switch tap. (2006+ is orange wire with black tracer.)

pyro-power=switched ignition 12volt source. (like the power pedal's plug)

pyro ground=the ground I used was under the dash by the steering column, with all the other factory grounds.


hope this helps
53

 

Universal fix all.


Unplug the harness from the back of the gauge, plug it back in.

All is well.

Thanks for the support 53 ******.

I'd like to take this time to thank David at Diesel Manor. The kit that Diesel Manor puts together is top notch. When I say the kit is complete, I mean COMPLETE. There is not one possible thing they don't supply. Ring terminals, shrink tubes, zip ties, self tapping screws for grounds, fuse & holder, bullet terminals, T-Tap slide connectors & male push on terminals, grommets & a NICE harness for a EGT & Boost gauge. One more pre-fab harness for another gauge (Fuel Pressure) and they throw in a boost bolt.

One man can easily complete a 3rd Gen install including fuel pressure gauge plumbing in under 3 hours flat (not that I did, but I believe it is possible).

 

Do you have a link to Diesel Manor?

 

www.dieselmanor.com

They used to be a site vendor, not sure what happened there.

Check out the price match policy.

 

Thanks! I googled diesel manor and got nada. Thanky for linky.

 

You might already have it figured out by now. I pulled the dash for access to the cigarette lighter for ignition power and got my light power off the dimmer wire on the back of the head light switch. There should be a power wire that activates just the head lights and running lights when the switch is activated for your install.

 

Whats the amp rating on that fuse P.J???


BTW that was an easy fix!