I just had my dual disc South Bend Dual Disc installed and I have some questions. First off let me say that this clutch is everything they advertised and more. It holds good and seems very streetable. But that does come at a price. Anyway on with the questions:

(1) I had been told I would have lots of vibration but in the first 60 miles or so I'm not noticing much at all.

(2) When I picked up the truck the first thing I noticed was the rattling sound, I assume this must be the vibration you guys were speaking of (Heard, not felt)

(3) For the first time upon picking up the truck I now have the check engine light on. It reads code p0480 (which according to this site is Coolong fan 1 control circuit/open(low speed fan relay)). Also the other code its throwing isnt listed on this site. p0243. Clostest thing i found was p0234 which is something about over-boost con dition which is probable with the way I drive.

(4) Do I need to give the clutch a break-in period?? I have read it both ways. If so how long?

(5)Is there any adjustment avaliable with the new hydrolics that I bought from south bend? I believe they are just reworked 2nd Gen hydrolics retrofitted for the 3rds. If so how do I do it? I have about 5 or 6 inches of play in the pedal but only about an inch of it is any good. Right in the middle of the pedal is where it will engage and it will take me a while to get used to it. I looked like I didnt know how to drive a standard for the first few blocks.

(6) Does $426 for installation seem high for the kit and hyd.? I was priced $350 in Dallas from a good perf. diesel shop but I didnt have the dough at the time and had to drive back to Spfd, MO for a funeral when it started to get real bad.

(7) Anybody that has a DD from SBC not completly happy with it? I would be surprised based on first experiences.

 

When we did my buddy's OFE, Peter recommended 500 miles of normal city driving before romping on it to help break it in. $426 seems about right to me for the clutch and hydraulics.

 

I guess I wouldnt have questioned the price at all if their guy hadnt stripped out one of the torx bolts out of the front of the driveshaft. Guess I'll be stayin in 2wd til I can get one of those bolts from DC. I had them leave it out as there is no way to even try to get it started with the torx panhed trashed.

All the searches I have done since my first post show that "chatter" is standard operating procedure for DD clutches. Besides that really is no bother to me.

I cannot seem to find the paperwork on the clutch, is there anyway to tell which one I bought? I think Peter told me it was good to 650rwhp for the type of guy whos hard on stuff(sled pull, drag, etc....) and still wants to daily drive it.