Cowhand

If all you're doing is a leveling kit, don't worry about the rear. The point of a leveling kit is to lift the front to match the rear, right? 1.5-2" isn't much, you won't need the CA's. I'm not a big fan of spacers, I'd recommend Coils Spring Specialties for the coils. I looked at the Lorenz stuff linked above, their stuff sounds pricey and the spring rates are way too high. For instance, they list a 580# coil rate, I run 360# on my 2nd gen. CSS leveling coils are around $200 shipped and you can specify the spring rate if you choose.

James is right on with the Bilsteins and the DT arms. You don't need to do arms, but if you do the DT arms are top notch. As far as the track bar, with 2" additional ride height the track bar only comes up less than 3/8" short. Don Thuren has an adjustable 3rd gen track bar in the works, I think maybe djgaston has one.

Ramtough

hmm this is foreign to my knowledge which i thought was pretty darn good for this design. I know that with the jeep cherokees (a very close four link design, mm i think where they got the dodge design but not sure what chrysler had as far as front end suspension setups on cars before the buyout of AMC. the early rams were leafs right?), trac bar length didnt come into the picture until 3-4" of lift. why would it be any differnt here? or are you talking about asthetics looking at the front of the truck or is there actual interferance with turning?
Also I learned with the jeep that pitman arm and trac bar mounting points had to be matching as to keep the angles parrallel so as you wouldnt get bumpsteer.
We even have the same crappy inverted y setup that changes toe as the suspension cycles. I'd like a few minutes alone with the genius engineer that is keeping that Crappy (yeah with a capital "C") design around!

anestech*

Lowering the trac bar without lowering the drag link (ie, with a dropped pitman arm) an equal amount will induce bump steer. I would only move both together, or neither one. And neither "should" be needed unless you are going more than 3" up front. I learned this the hard way with my jeep.

After I dialed everything in with a custom tracbar drop bracket that matched the angle of my draglink, my steering was back to stock feel (when combined with long arms and just over 6" of lift). And ZERO bumpsteer.

For a leveling kit, I would leave both alone, and maybe considered slightly longer control arms. Adjustable ones prefered.

James Lucas

Ok lets look at what the track bar is and what it does...

One thing for sure is it helps keep the front axle centered with the front of the truck.

It also keeps the front axle from jumping from one side to the other so easily

Ok now lets throw an extreme example out here for a second.... Lets say we lift the truck 2 feet and we do not move the track bar down the same amount, The axle would be moved extreme left. Hold your arm out straight and lower it 2 inches, you should notice very little difference in how far your arm is from your body.

Ok now hold your finger out straight and lower it 2 inches. HUGE difference.

Track bar is set from factory at an angle downward but it is more horizontal than up and down. Track bar set straight from side to side would yeild the best result.

At any rate if you move the axle down 2-3 inches it would be advised to move the track bar/frame mount down the same.

The more horizontal the track bar is the least amount the axle will move left to right and visa versa.

If our track bars were set more straight up and down than horizontal we would have a front axle and tires moving side to side when the suspension cycles.

If this is something new to you... Lay down under your truck and study the entire setup, including identify what the parts are.

James