Injector install help...
How do i get the injector connector tube out without the miller tool, I started tearing down the truck to get the injectors in when they come in tomorrow, but i havent gotten to taking out the connector tubes, but i was wonder how to get them out with out the tool, is there a rick or is it pretty easy to get them out by hand?
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I wraped the ends of mine in a thick lint free towel, (wife get's 'em from the hospital) and took a pair of pliers pinching the ends for a good grip, and pulling them straight out. Piece of cake. Let me know if you have anymore questions. I just did this on the same truck and it's fresh in my mind.
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Originally Posted by Dieselhed
(Post 1945185)
I wraped the ends of mine in a thick lint free towel, (wife get's 'em from the hospital) and took a pair of pliers pinching the ends for a good grip, and pulling them straight out. Piece of cake. Let me know if you have anymore questions. I just did this on the same truck and it's fresh in my mind.
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actually, how do you get the fuel lines out of the way of the connector. i remover the line brace/bracket, do i have to loosen the line at the rail too?
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easier to remove the entire rail
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X2 on the movin the hole rail. and just grab the tube wiggel and yank they will come.
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Yeah, you should be able to pull them out by hand but they might be a little stuck the first time.
When it comes time to remove the injectors without the tool, there is a little trick I figured out. Pry up on one side with a screwdriver and use your other hand to hold the injector and keep it centered (while pulling up a little). They will pop out much easier than if you tried to pry really hard or used two screwdrivers together. |
Originally Posted by Billm2004
(Post 1945203)
actually, how do you get the fuel lines out of the way of the connector. i remover the line brace/bracket, do i have to loosen the line at the rail too?
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5 down 1 to go! Thanks for the help, i didnt remove the rail just some of the lines, i hope thats not hurting anything. Im keeping them all clean and away from debris.
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Originally Posted by Billm2004
(Post 1945939)
5 down 1 to go! Thanks for the help, i didnt remove the rail just some of the lines, i hope thats not hurting anything. Im keeping them all clean and away from debris.
When pulling the rail you only have to remove 2 connections and a few bolts. Removing the lines is probably a little easier, but you increase the chances of leaking fittings. Not that leaks are really a big problem...assuming you don't under or over-tighten the fittings. [laugh] I bet you can't wait to drive it!!! [coffee] |
Let me guess. That last one is #6? It's a $%&@$
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Originally Posted by Dieselhed
(Post 1946240)
Let me guess. That last one is #6? It's a edit
The special "tool" was my cousin who has an ASE certification and really long arms. Sorry, don't have the part number handy. [laugh] |
LOL.. DDP is overnighting me a set of new nozzles, but they also said that it could be possible that my injector body is messed up too. What could be wrong with it. my factorys ran perfect. i only have 65,000 miles
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Originally Posted by Billm2004
(Post 1946304)
LOL.. DDP is overnighting me a set of new nozzles, but they also said that it could be possible that my injector body is messed up too. What could be wrong with it. my factorys ran perfect. i only have 65,000 miles
I really hate to say it man, but this is exactly why I like how Don at F1 installs the tips and then flow tests each injector before sending them back. It's a pain to have your truck down for 48hrs, but it helps to avoid issues like this. |
Originally Posted by jrussell
(Post 1947159)
What exactly is it doing? Mine had some sticking nozzles at less than 10k miles, but that shouldn't matter for you since they've been changed.
I really hate to say it man, but this is exactly why I like how Don at F1 installs the tips and then flow tests each injector before sending them back. It's a pain to have your truck down for 48hrs, but it helps to avoid issues like this. |
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