Holesaw, drill bit...what do I need?
UPS delivered my B&W Turnover Ball gooseneck hitch on Friday and to do the install I need to cut a 4" diameter hole in the bottom of my bed. My question is, what do I use to cut that hole? Do they make 4" drill bits? Do I need a holesaw? Do they make special holesaws for metal? Finally, where can I get what I need?
Thanks guys. |
i did my own. 4" holesaw with drill bit pilot $40ish. you need someones help..i did it myself while my wife held her hands over my childs ears. get a tq wrench and have fun [coffee]
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I aree with catcracker, but with one exception! When drillin out a hole that size be VERY CAREFUL not to wrap your thumb around the drill so when it catches some metal it won't kick back and break your thumb. It will do it if you don't use CARE!!!!!!! But you can do it!
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Originally Posted by CATCRACKER2
(Post 1403711)
i did my own. 4" holesaw with drill bit pilot $40ish. you need someones help..i did it myself while my wife held her hands over my childs ears. get a tq wrench and have fun [coffee]
Is the 2nd person to help raise and bolt the center section? |
NO, The second person is to stand on their head while sticking out their tongue to help you with holding up the cross member and starting the bolts!!
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ptgarcia, All kidding aside, it will go alot faster if you do have some extra hands.
I used some extra hands and the install went great! About 2 hours later---------TA DA!!!!!! |
Cool deal. I guess I'll run up to Sears at lunch and look for a 4" holesaw. Will any holesaw work, or do I need one with special teeth for metal?
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Get one that says "bi-metalic" and you'll be good to go. Blu-Mol is the brand most commonly used around my parts.
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I would use cutting fluid on it too...it makes it go through 2x as fast and will save the hole saw teeth IMHO
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Don't fool with anything less than a nice new sharp bi-metal hole saw. Also, it tends to grab and bind as you cut through the vertical sections of the rib. Run the hole saw in reverse at that point. Good luck.
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Thanks all for the advice.
Picked up a 4" bi-metal holesaw and arbor at HCS Cutler during lunch. Hopefully I can get this done in the next couple/few days. |
When I use a holesaw, especially for something like that corregated bed, I first put the holesaw in my drillpress and run it thru a piece of sacrificial plywood. Then I have a perfect, large template. Place the hole in the plywood exactly where you want the hole in the bed and stand on the plywood while you drill. You won't even need the dinky pilot bit which easily breaks or wallows out, causing an oversize hole. You will have good control of the saw as it chatters thru the corregations and make a perfectly round hole and it won't slip out and put swirl scratches in the bed. I've even used this method to drill holes at an angle - it's bulletproof! Craig
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Originally Posted by C Schomer
(Post 1404138)
When I use a holesaw, especially for something like that corregated bed, I first put the holesaw in my drillpress and run it thru a piece of sacrificial plywood. Then I have a perfect, large template. Place the hole in the plywood exactly where you want the hole in the bed and stand on the plywood while you drill. You won't even need the dinky pilot bit which easily breaks or wallows out, causing an oversize hole. You will have good control of the saw as it chatters thru the corregations and make a perfectly round hole and it won't slip out and put swirl scratches in the bed. I've even used this method to drill holes at an angle - it's bulletproof! Craig
Hay :cool: With my "large frame" standing on the plywood, it ain't going nowhere.. :) |
Get some way to raise it up to bolt it place.
http://www.wt4x4.net/tech/images/goose/DSC01685.JPG |
Pauly.....
If only you'd reach out and touch someone......I have a 4" hole saw and arbors in my box... |
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