New engine build 5.9
#1
New engine build 5.9
I'm looking to rebuild my 2005 dodge ram cummins. As it sits it washed out #5 cylinder. I'm looking to build a 400 to 600 hp truck that is bullet proof and does not smoke a ton. I am not a fan of rolling coal it brings to much attention. I have $25k to do engine and turbo.
So far the build sheet is as follows.
Engine bore and home
Big valve cylinder head
Arp 625 head studs
Arp main studs
Arp rod bolts
Ham 188/220 cam
So I am at a lost for a few things
Rods
Twin turbo
Injectors
And bov and waste gates to manage drive pressure. I am a novice at twins
So far the build sheet is as follows.
Engine bore and home
Big valve cylinder head
Arp 625 head studs
Arp main studs
Arp rod bolts
Ham 188/220 cam
So I am at a lost for a few things
Rods
Twin turbo
Injectors
And bov and waste gates to manage drive pressure. I am a novice at twins
#2
stock rods are fine, you dont need compounds, but they will be nicer to have for the 600 HP range. there is big difference between 400 and 600 HP, so come up with a narrower goal so we can help you make decisions. after all my research, i personally think that a cam is waste of money, but some guys have noticed a little a difference in their truck with a cam.
#3
Rebuild ideas
stock rods are fine, you dont need compounds, but they will be nicer to have for the 600 HP range. there is big difference between 400 and 600 HP, so come up with a narrower goal so we can help you make decisions. after all my research, i personally think that a cam is waste of money, but some guys have noticed a little a difference in their truck with a cam.
#4
there is a difference between having a 500 HP truck that can pull, and pulling while putting down 500 HP. i am guessing you wanna have a 500 HP truck and be able to still pull fine. so you dont need compounds (different then twins) to make 500 HP. compounds will give you lower EGT's while towing and more usable power with out getting too hot. you can get this from a bigger single, but you will have more turbo lag. a common set up is the stocker (he351) with an s475 (thats what i have). its great for towing, daily driving and still spools fast. most people get the 75/96 1.32, but i got the 1.10. its a little bit tighter housing for a little bit faster spooling. now a 1.10 will get higher DP then the 1.32, but i have never had any issues with the 1.10 DP, plus i was on stock springs. i also bored my wastegate slightly over 1". most people bore out the stock wastegate to 1" and then you shouldnt have to worry about DP, but i would still get 103# springs, push rods and a DP gauge just to be on the safe side. there are a few piping kits out there for a compound kit, so you can search around for those. i got the crazy carl piping kit. you dont need a BOV, stock rods are just fine and as for injectors, 50 HP injectors will do the trick. you can go bigger if you want, but its not needed for 500 HP. BMS and exergy are the top 2 for injectors. so i recommend one of them and DO NOT buy remanned injectors. you will want to get better filtration to help your injectors last, so a fass is a good way to go. you get better filtration plus a nice fuel pump. the most important thing in all of this is the tuning. you will want to get HP tunes. this is the best tuning you can get for your truck and you will need it with this set up. just a plug and play programmer with box tunes wont cut it and you wont get the most out of your truck. the next step down from HP is a UDC tune which is still good, just not the best.
#6
#7
Build sheet as of now.
there is a difference between having a 500 HP truck that can pull, and pulling while putting down 500 HP. i am guessing you wanna have a 500 HP truck and be able to still pull fine. so you dont need compounds (different then twins) to make 500 HP. compounds will give you lower EGT's while towing and more usable power with out getting too hot. you can get this from a bigger single, but you will have more turbo lag. a common set up is the stocker (he351) with an s475 (thats what i have). its great for towing, daily driving and still spools fast. most people get the 75/96 1.32, but i got the 1.10. its a little bit tighter housing for a little bit faster spooling. now a 1.10 will get higher DP then the 1.32, but i have never had any issues with the 1.10 DP, plus i was on stock springs. i also bored my wastegate slightly over 1". most people bore out the stock wastegate to 1" and then you shouldnt have to worry about DP, but i would still get 103# springs, push rods and a DP gauge just to be on the safe side. there are a few piping kits out there for a compound kit, so you can search around for those. i got the crazy carl piping kit. you dont need a BOV, stock rods are just fine and as for injectors, 50 HP injectors will do the trick. you can go bigger if you want, but its not needed for 500 HP. BMS and exergy are the top 2 for injectors. so i recommend one of them and DO NOT buy remanned injectors. you will want to get better filtration to help your injectors last, so a fass is a good way to go. you get better filtration plus a nice fuel pump. the most important thing in all of this is the tuning. you will want to get HP tunes. this is the best tuning you can get for your truck and you will need it with this set up. just a plug and play programmer with box tunes wont cut it and you wont get the most out of your truck. the next step down from HP is a UDC tune which is still good, just not the best.
=Bore and hone the block
=Big valve kit and Exhaust porting
= not sure about o-ringing the head input on this will be helpful
=12v rods cryo treated
=Arp everything and 625 head studs
=Oil pump water pump and oil cooler
=grind or polish crank
=hamilton 178/208 cam
=hamilton tappets and push rods
=energy injectors 45% New
=fleece performance powerflo750
=turbo from tater custom built 63/67 with the option of maybe doing a s475 down the road I'll take comments on that set up
=fass titanium 150 with heater
=overhaul kit with mahl pistons that will be coated from pollydyan and bearings coated as well
=mishimoto intercooler
=s&b intake
=cfm intake manifold
=hp time by fulepunk
Am I forgetting anything should I change anything thanks for the input
Mountain high performance is building the engine and doing the head work.
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#9
Engine build sheet as of now
=Bore and hone the block
=Big valve kit and Exhaust porting
= not sure about o-ringing the head input on this will be helpful not needed
=12v rods cryo treated stock is fine
=Arp everything and 625 head studs
=Oil pump water pump and oil cooler
=grind or polish crank was there damage on the crank?
=hamilton 178/208 cam
=hamilton tappets and push rods
=energy injectors 45% New exergy
=fleece performance powerflo750 not needed, stock is fine
=turbo from tater custom built 63/67 with the option of maybe doing a s475 down the road I'll take comments on that set up a 63/65 will spool a little faster
=fass titanium 150 with heater
=overhaul kit with mahl pistons that will be coated from pollydyan and bearings coated as well stock pistons are made by mahle. the coating is a waste in my opinion, especcially for what you use the truck for.
=mishimoto intercooler not needed. if you have the intercooler with the plastic ends, then its a good ideal to replace it with an all metal stock one. just remember a bigger intercooler needs more air to fill up, therefore takes longer to fill the whole system with boost. i dont know the difference it will make performance wise, but its worth a thought.
=s&b intake
=cfm intake manifold
=hp time by fulepunk
Am I forgetting anything should I change anything thanks for the input
Mountain high performance is building the engine and doing the head work.
=Bore and hone the block
=Big valve kit and Exhaust porting
= not sure about o-ringing the head input on this will be helpful not needed
=12v rods cryo treated stock is fine
=Arp everything and 625 head studs
=Oil pump water pump and oil cooler
=grind or polish crank was there damage on the crank?
=hamilton 178/208 cam
=hamilton tappets and push rods
=energy injectors 45% New exergy
=fleece performance powerflo750 not needed, stock is fine
=turbo from tater custom built 63/67 with the option of maybe doing a s475 down the road I'll take comments on that set up a 63/65 will spool a little faster
=fass titanium 150 with heater
=overhaul kit with mahl pistons that will be coated from pollydyan and bearings coated as well stock pistons are made by mahle. the coating is a waste in my opinion, especcially for what you use the truck for.
=mishimoto intercooler not needed. if you have the intercooler with the plastic ends, then its a good ideal to replace it with an all metal stock one. just remember a bigger intercooler needs more air to fill up, therefore takes longer to fill the whole system with boost. i dont know the difference it will make performance wise, but its worth a thought.
=s&b intake
=cfm intake manifold
=hp time by fulepunk
Am I forgetting anything should I change anything thanks for the input
Mountain high performance is building the engine and doing the head work.
compounds is one turbo feeding another. twins is 2 turbos feeding air to the same place, but one turbo does not feed the other.
#10
this is a quote i copied, the bottom part is what tater turbo said to a customer.
"His words.. Copied the text and pasted, pretty sure he is admitting he has a problem every 60-70 people sooooo.
Nope that pop was the turbine. Don't understand it but I will get about 1 out of 60 or 70 turbines and can't figure out why. They balance out perfect to so it blows my mind. But yea I'm sorry about that man. I totally understand needing your truck. I can't function at all with out mine either"
"His words.. Copied the text and pasted, pretty sure he is admitting he has a problem every 60-70 people sooooo.
Nope that pop was the turbine. Don't understand it but I will get about 1 out of 60 or 70 turbines and can't figure out why. They balance out perfect to so it blows my mind. But yea I'm sorry about that man. I totally understand needing your truck. I can't function at all with out mine either"
#11
this is a quote i copied, the bottom part is what tater turbo said to a customer.
"His words.. Copied the text and pasted, pretty sure he is admitting he has a problem every 60-70 people sooooo.
Nope that pop was the turbine. Don't understand it but I will get about 1 out of 60 or 70 turbines and can't figure out why. They balance out perfect to so it blows my mind. But yea I'm sorry about that man. I totally understand needing your truck. I can't function at all with out mine either"
"His words.. Copied the text and pasted, pretty sure he is admitting he has a problem every 60-70 people sooooo.
Nope that pop was the turbine. Don't understand it but I will get about 1 out of 60 or 70 turbines and can't figure out why. They balance out perfect to so it blows my mind. But yea I'm sorry about that man. I totally understand needing your truck. I can't function at all with out mine either"
And as for valve springs and water pump they are on there I just forgot to list them the vspring are hamiltob.
So now what do I do about a turbo?
#12
Turbo
this is a quote i copied, the bottom part is what tater turbo said to a customer.
"His words.. Copied the text and pasted, pretty sure he is admitting he has a problem every 60-70 people sooooo.
Nope that pop was the turbine. Don't understand it but I will get about 1 out of 60 or 70 turbines and can't figure out why. They balance out perfect to so it blows my mind. But yea I'm sorry about that man. I totally understand needing your truck. I can't function at all with out mine either"
"His words.. Copied the text and pasted, pretty sure he is admitting he has a problem every 60-70 people sooooo.
Nope that pop was the turbine. Don't understand it but I will get about 1 out of 60 or 70 turbines and can't figure out why. They balance out perfect to so it blows my mind. But yea I'm sorry about that man. I totally understand needing your truck. I can't function at all with out mine either"
And as for valve springs and water pump they are on there I just forgot to list them the vspring are hamiltob.
So now what do I do about a turbo?
#13
read through this. they tested 5 turbos on a dyno and they show the results of the different tests they did. i dont think they used they same injectors on every turbo, but you will see that when you read it. there is a lot of good info in here, so this will help you make a decision on what will work best for what you use the truck for and what you want to get out of your truck. http://www.calibratedpower.com/Cummi...20Shootout.pdf
#14
Registered User
I'm looking to rebuild my 2005 dodge ram cummins. As it sits it washed out #5 cylinder. I'm looking to build a 400 to 600 hp truck that is bullet proof and does not smoke a ton. I am not a fan of rolling coal it brings to much attention. I have $25k to do engine and turbo.
So far the build sheet is as follows.
Engine bore and home
Big valve cylinder head
Arp 625 head studs
Arp main studs
Arp rod bolts
Ham 188/220 cam
So I am at a lost for a few things
Rods
Twin turbo
Injectors
And bov and waste gates to manage drive pressure. I am a novice at twins
So far the build sheet is as follows.
Engine bore and home
Big valve cylinder head
Arp 625 head studs
Arp main studs
Arp rod bolts
Ham 188/220 cam
So I am at a lost for a few things
Rods
Twin turbo
Injectors
And bov and waste gates to manage drive pressure. I am a novice at twins