I'm thinking of putting in my OFE this weekend, before I do I have a few questions:

1) the SB instructions say to remove the shift tower,do I really need to? (The Dodge manual just says to remover the shifter.)

2) is it okay to support the rear of the engine with a block of wood against the oil pan?

3) what's the easiest way to turn the engine to remove the flywheel bolts?

4) Should I use Loctite on pressure plate and flywheel bolts?

5) I don't use the plate bolted to the crank that the stock DM flywheel uses, right?

6) I'm thinkin I take the little plastic retainer thing off the slave before bolting it in?

7) Some threads on here talked about a spacer behind the ball pivot stud, was discussions on whether it should be removed or not? (Not even mentioned in my SB instructions)

8) Is the OFE up to 3rd gear launches?

If anyone else has any tips or tricks for the install feel free to pass them on.

 

Good questions, will be watching as I am soon going to be doing the same thing.

 

54 reads, no one has any advice?

 

Moved in the hopes of more responses......

 

separate the tcase from trans. rent a trans jack. unbolt the front driveshaft at the tcase and ziptie it to the framerail, no need to remove it from the axle.

 

Thanks for the tips.
I'm hoping to leave the transfer case attached to the tranny, I'm getting a big tranny jack (like for semis).

I think the DM flywheel is bolted on from behind though. I get at the bolts by removing a plate on the pass side, I need to then the flywheels to get at each one..? I got supplemental instructions from SB saying this.
I've cranked over gas engines using a flex bar on the harmonic balancer bolt, but those didn't have the same compression this does...

 

the SB instructions say to remove the shift tower,do I really need to? (The Dodge manual just says to remover the shifter.)

I spent a hour trying to get tranny out with just shifter removed then removed tower and had it out it 5 mins


what's the easiest way to turn the engine to remove the flywheel bolts?

There is a tool from Cummins that can be used(makes it much easier) however If I remember correctly there is an access plate that needs to be removed to get at the bolts that hold the flywheel on

 

I left the transfer case attached to the tranny was heavy but manageable

 

no third gear launches with the ofe

treat her right and she'll last you a long time.

 

I installed 3600 DD in mine, so I imagine the install would be about the same.

I removed the entire shift tower. It's no big deal (only 4 bolts). It could also make the install of the tranny easier b/c the peg leg that the shifter attaches too won't be there. I covered the hole up with a piece of cardboard and two of the toper bolts to protect the transmission.

I didn't support the rear of the engine at all. I had the transmission out, old clutch out, new clutch in and tranny in in about an hour. This time doesn't count for all of the other supporting work.

To turn the engine we used a pry bar on the fly wheel on the drivers side of the engine. The engine turned over a lot easier than expected.

I didn't use any loctite b/c SB didn't say to.

Nope, take all stock components and through in the corner. Maybe sell them as scrap when the price goes back up.

No. Just install it the slave with the retainer. Once the job ios finished, just pump the clutch pedal and the retainer will break. Once the engine is started, the retainer strings will find they're way out through the breather hole in the bell housing.

With the DD, the spacer behind the pivot HAS to be removed. There was a tag indicating so attached the flywheel when the new clutch showed up. May not be necessary for a single disk clutch install.

I don't have any tips or tricks as the install is very straight forward as long as you've done one before. I'd recommend refilling the fluid through the shift tower versus pumping it in through the hole on the side of the case.

 

I was able to turn the flywheel by hand to index between bolts. The access plate is on the passenger side of the bellhousing adapter.

I didn't separate the tcase from the tranny.

No loctitie here either.

Fill through shift tower hole. Add an extra qt.

The plate bolted to the crank goes bye bye. Once you pull the DMF, you'll need to remove the plate as well. The new flywheel bolts directly to the crank.

I actually had to block the front of the motor with a pc of wood on a jack to tilt it back. It allowed for easier assembly.

Upon stabbing the tranny back in, I had to pull the last 3/8" with the bolts. From what I have read this is common. Don't force anything though.

I didn't pull the front driveshaft axle connection either. Just bungied it out of the way.

I had to separate the exhaust on the elbow to access something or drop the tranny. I can't remember why, but I know I had to do it.

You can always call Peter at SBC and ask him about the spacer behind the pivot.

 

Thanks guys.
You mention filling the tranny, so I should drain it before I remove it (or are you saying just do it anyhow while I'm there?)
Also, what's the extra quart about?

I've done clutches before, but it was a long time ago.

One thing I noticed with the SB instructions was they say to use Mopar Hi Temp wheel bearing grease to lube the splines, the throw out etc, just seems funny SB would stipulate the Mopar brand...

 

Yep, go ahead and change the fluid while you're at it. If you want to stick to Mopar, Walmart has it for $5 a quart.

I removed the front driveshaft, removed the rear driveshaft, separated the t-case from the tranny and removed the exhaust from the truck. But, I hate being pressed for space, so I tried to gain as much as I could.

I had to pull the tranny to the engine with bolts the last 1/2 inch or so as well.