DIY crank sensor mods
DIY crank sensor mods
http://photobucket.com/albums/c154/cranksensor/
the Sensor is $28 (dealer cost think it was www.moparparts.com had same price)
the fog light is $127 at full cost
the Sensor is $28 (dealer cost think it was www.moparparts.com had same price)
the fog light is $127 at full cost
Whats the point of a link that you need a password for , Its bad enough that I see a post heading that sounds interesting and then go to look at the post and theres no coment just a link , then sometimes --- well I was going to say something about uninteresting but thats what its all about differant interests. But here we have nothing
hey, just a'cause i done something stupid don't mean you can call me...
uh, yeah, guess you were right...try it again....
i changed it to public.
wife was aggravating me while i was trying to do it...
she wanted to shop on-line....silly women...the innernet is for DIESEL MODS!
uh, yeah, guess you were right...try it again....
i changed it to public.
wife was aggravating me while i was trying to do it...
she wanted to shop on-line....silly women...the innernet is for DIESEL MODS!
Originally Posted by 04ctd
the Sensor is $28 (dealer cost think it was www.moparparts.com had same price)
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1/8th of an inch by measuring this morning on the old one.
the only reason i mentioned the replacement cost is if you tear up your sensor (by pulling on the wire end to get it out - pry the snout away from the tone ring with a flat blade)
or if you grind into it & make a hole (have to go sideways at an angle & be pretty impatient to do that) and have to replace it.
but if you go slow, and take your time, and keep the ground area flat, you'll be fine, and won't have to fight the crankshaft bolts and rip your knuckles.
it's just a hard plastic, do the final cuts with the file, and you will be fine.
(i think i just told on myself....)
the only reason i mentioned the replacement cost is if you tear up your sensor (by pulling on the wire end to get it out - pry the snout away from the tone ring with a flat blade)
or if you grind into it & make a hole (have to go sideways at an angle & be pretty impatient to do that) and have to replace it.
but if you go slow, and take your time, and keep the ground area flat, you'll be fine, and won't have to fight the crankshaft bolts and rip your knuckles.
it's just a hard plastic, do the final cuts with the file, and you will be fine.
(i think i just told on myself....)
04CTD
I am interested in performing one of the two timing mods and like the idea of moding a 28 dollar sensor. Has anyone looked up the cost of a new Tone Ring? I have read indepth on the tone ring mod and feel comfortable with the proceedure. I have not seen much information on the sensor mod.
Can you explain what you your goal is with this proceedure? Are you rotating it X degrees or sliding it?
I have looked over your photos (thanks) and have an idea but would like to read more about how to modify the sensor before giving it a try.
Also, how is the performance / fuel usage, do you notice any difference?
Thanks
Andy
I am interested in performing one of the two timing mods and like the idea of moding a 28 dollar sensor. Has anyone looked up the cost of a new Tone Ring? I have read indepth on the tone ring mod and feel comfortable with the proceedure. I have not seen much information on the sensor mod.
Can you explain what you your goal is with this proceedure? Are you rotating it X degrees or sliding it?
I have looked over your photos (thanks) and have an idea but would like to read more about how to modify the sensor before giving it a try.
Also, how is the performance / fuel usage, do you notice any difference?
Thanks
Andy
AndyZ, the sensor becomes thinner on top, and turns up further in the hole, so that it is about a notch advanced. you can see the gap in the bottom of the hole.
all you doing with the tone ring mod, is advancing the ring instead of the sensor.
the tone ring is held in place by the bolts, and you would not have to replace it, just loosen it and rotate it back (if you read the threads, one guy pushed his wrong way)
the only reason to replace the sensor is if you tear it up (i tore up my first one - trying to pull it out by wire end - and then ground in to it by holding grinder at an angle).
you can loosen the screw, and rotate the modified sensor back down to stock position.
my MPG is up a bit, at least 1.5mpg, and it is much louder when cold, and maybe some SOTP, but that's hard to say, I don't beat on it enough to judge SOTP really,
if you read the threads, there is significant area for mechanical tolerance, and guys are having all sort of results, probably due to dimensional creep during assembly of the crank/tone ring, some are built advanced/some retarded --> therefore get more gains.
i think i would like to do both now, see how much advance is too much. (i don't have a box). with the sensor & the free Bullydog ~50hp download, it was impressive.
all you doing with the tone ring mod, is advancing the ring instead of the sensor.
the tone ring is held in place by the bolts, and you would not have to replace it, just loosen it and rotate it back (if you read the threads, one guy pushed his wrong way)
the only reason to replace the sensor is if you tear it up (i tore up my first one - trying to pull it out by wire end - and then ground in to it by holding grinder at an angle).
you can loosen the screw, and rotate the modified sensor back down to stock position.
my MPG is up a bit, at least 1.5mpg, and it is much louder when cold, and maybe some SOTP, but that's hard to say, I don't beat on it enough to judge SOTP really,
if you read the threads, there is significant area for mechanical tolerance, and guys are having all sort of results, probably due to dimensional creep during assembly of the crank/tone ring, some are built advanced/some retarded --> therefore get more gains.
i think i would like to do both now, see how much advance is too much. (i don't have a box). with the sensor & the free Bullydog ~50hp download, it was impressive.
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