A couple weeks ago I bought
http://www.handyindustries.com/shop/...uct=15&D=2&S=0
and want to plumb it in to fill my stock tank. I don't want to have to stop to do this, just drive. Maybe flip a toggle switch if I HAVE to... I would like to gravity feed it, but I don't think that will work, because the fuel lines come out from the top of the unit, none on the bottom sides.
So it seems the best way to do this would be a cheap pump, then run the return line to the transfer tank? sound right?

Any advice is greatly appreciated, I just don't want to end up dumping fuel everywhere, doing things like this, I always seem to overlook a detail.

THanks,
Rob

 

You need to have a drain bung installed in the transfer tank...so you can gravity feed into your vent line. It is the only easy sure way...

 

And the return line goes where... If you plumb in a line from the aux tank for feed you have to supply a return line to the same tank. What I do is I have a Y on one of my two pickups from my stock tank. When the small tank gets empty....I flip the y and run off the big tank and the return fills the small tank.....when the small tank shows full I turn the y back.....forget and you lose fuel unless you can burn fuel faster than the return flows and fills...with my 125 gal tank full .....that is pretty fast. You can hook up an electronic Y or employ a Transfer Flow automatic tank filler (nice setup). All aux tanks should have a return line to feed back the fuel that isn't needed. When you have a FASS or other that can pump 150 gal. an hour....alot of fuel is always on the move.ks

 

return line back into the transfer tank, instead of the stock tank

 

NO NO NO NO

Buy the $70 dollar kit from Northern Equipment. It supplies a alluminum tube with a rollover vent valve screwed in it to hook the transfer line to. You simply run the hose from the rollover valve through a hole in bed to a fitting in the bottom of auxilary tank. When fule in stock tank gets up in filler hose the plastic ball in rollover valve shuts the fuel off until the fuel level drops and allows the ball to come off of seat and let more fuel in.

Some guys are just hooking line to vent on tank and letting it go at that. Only problem I see is if there is not a rollover valve in the vent, which there may be, you can't open the cap on the stock tank due to fuel spilling out if the auxillary tank has fuel in it. There is a thread about this on here pretty recent the last few days.

 

While gravity feed is easy....it may not be legal in your state especially if you ever have to scale or are pulled over by DOT which never happens to those that give advice by the way. He has fittings on the top so yes the alumimum tube with the roll over vent would work if he doesn't have a pickup already. If his tank has a DOT tag on it .... adding a bottom bung would void the warranty and void the DOT tag. I would assume that one of the fittings on the top already has the pickup tube in it. IF it doesn't first thing you need is a pick up tube. If you are just using this tank as a transfer tank then you will either need a transfer pump or you can hook it up as in my post. My method cost $40 or less for the 3 way valve and 5 feet of fuel line with 5 push loks and a T. Any big truck supply joint will hook you up. You can mount the valve on the frame rail or anywhere within 5 feet of the tank or main fuel line. If your tank didn't come with a roll over fuel vent will need one. Most truck shops also sell an electronic tank transfer switch. It will switch the supply and the return lines over from one tank to the other and it will allow you to balance one tank to the other or fill one tank from the other Cost is about $115 plus pushlok fittings (5/8 to 3/8 hose). Transfer Flow has a digital version of this called TRAX-II. Good Luck, ks

 

I will not agrue with DOT legality....but,

Why do I need a roll over valve, both caps are one way vented? No leak in any position...which I have verified.

Why do I need to open my OEM tank when it is completely full and there is fuel in the aux tank?

Making mountians out of molehills again....


My OEM return was not changed. My Glacier Fuel System return tee's into the filter OEM filter neck...and still works fine.

 

CQ, My tank only has one vent and it is a rollover vent. IF your tank is already vented and cannot leak when truck is upside down...good to go. If you are pulling fuel from the aux tank to the motor.....and the main tank is full....where does the returned fuel go. If the aux tank is only going to be used to top up the main tank then get a pump....a walbro will do....to pump fuel into your main tank....from the top outlet and you can T it into the return line going into the filler neck. Put a switch in the cab and when the gauge is full then flip off switch or hook up a relay circuit to the tank pump that turns it off when the fuel level sender indicates full. (5V I do believe) If you want to be able to run from the aux tank and fill the main tank...hook up as I've indicated....No mountains just making sure that everyone understands that if you run from the aux tank to the motor...the return has to go to either the aux tank or the main tank and the main tank needs room for the fuel to go...Big benefit of my setup is that you can drive and fill up the main tank to the very top. Good Luck. ks

 

Both returns go to the OEM tank..they have a higher line pressure than the static head casued by the aux tank. It is a very simple connection.

Connection:

Splice gravity drain from aux tank into OEM vent line.
Use one way vented cap on Aux Tank.
Sit back and enjoy barley pops...

The return fuel is pushed back into the system just fine. Remember the volume of fuel is always decreasing! No leaks, no problems, no anything for 100k on this truck and 150k on the last. I am not saying that will keep the DOT happy...but speeding, farm diesel, over loading, etc will not either...so choose your evil.