I want to add a bypass filter to my truck and I was looking at one of these.
http://www.oilconditioningsystems.co...ads/25_new.pdf
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/en/...triguard.shtml
At work I see a bunch of fleets that run them. Has anyone run a spinner on a 5.9? It also needs a large return line, which I need to figure that out as well. I fear I will have to remove the oil pan and put a bung in it.
Ideas and suggestions welcome.... as always

The Spinner II would be a model 25 and the Centriguard would be a CH41102, as recommended by Cummins.

 

you can add an amsoil kit with spin on bep 100 filter and no the return line you tap a hole in valve cover and use gaskets teflon paste and the feed comes off top of oil filter housing have had mine onfor about 3 years works great

 

While I agree with you on the Amsoil kit, these are completely different animals... They are centrifugal filters using force to get contaminants out.

 

I also have a Amsoil bypass filter kit, and its easy to install and works great. The filters are longlasting as well, 20,000 for the primary and 2X that for the bypass. I also have my oil anilized every 5K and have had the same amsoil synthetic in it for 55,000 miles, with one filter change.

 

I know from talking to some of the fleet managers, foremen etc. that spinners really work. If you ever cleaned one, you would know. They are supposed to get the real tiny stuff out. I do not doubt the bypass filter cartridges, but a lot of data shows the spinners and the filters that cook out the bad stuff work a lot better. Here is another option that I can get, but it is gravity return also.
http://www.puradyn.com/products/overview.html

I am also looking at these 3 because my shop sells them
Employee discount

 

So how much is that centriguard? how does it mount?

 

I am still waiting on the quote for the Centriguard. How do you like that.... I work at a Cummins shop and none of the parts guys even know what I am talking about

The Spinner II is $213.00 and the Puradyn was close to $325

I did call Fleetguard direct and the guy I talked to there said the CH41102 is the one that guys have retrofitted to the trucks. They have to be mounted vertically and since they are gravity drain, they need a big return line. Do you know where the guys that run twins return the oil to???

 

Oil returns are just like for the stock turbo... only also using the freeze plug hole just aft of the oil filter housing. I am sure Shane, (Luvnacumns), would be happy to show how that is done!

 

kickin the dagar a bit huh Soul!! LOL

You guys think there would be a pressure loss with that kind of setup? WHere would you tap into for a pressure line to feed the filter? I have a friend who has the amsoil bypass and he pulled his fil cap while it was running and it was not much pressure. would there be enough pressure to operate the centrifuge or is it driven by an electric motor? Sorry fer all the questions.

 

I just spent 30 minutes going through the Cummins/Fleetgaurd 93 page presentation. It looks like oil pressure passing through jets, veins, etc create the spinning motion. One of the slides claims 7,500 rpm can be created with a minimum of 50 psi @ 2 gpm flow.

This is the reason that the spinner has be mounted above the oil pan, because there is zero oil pressure left to drive it back to the pan. It has to gravity feed, or be air assisted.

--Eric

 

I will try to answer in order, as long as my ADD doesnt flare up

1) They have GPM ratings to not over-tax the oil system. For our ISB's, something in the range of .8-1.0 GPM is where you want to be.... per Fleetguard/Cummins

2) On top of your oil filter base there is ports for pressurized oil. Remove the plug and hook up your pressure line.

3)The centrifuge oil systems are efficient between 30-90 PSI but optimum is 60.... according to the install book for Spinner II

4) Some centrifuge filters use air pressure (when available) to force the return oil into the oil pan, crankcase etc. These systems do not require such a large diameter return hose.

5) Most centrifuge filters also have a low oil pressure limiter that require 20 psi or so before oil can flow through them. This is for idling with low oil pressure or a system malfunction.

Best of all, when you shut the engine off, you hear that thing spin for about 45 sec. afterwards. Just think of all the possible B.S. stuff you can come up with to explain it.

 

muffler bearings

 

because of mounting problems i would go with one of the new soot removal bypass filters for the 14 liter cat or cummins truck engines, they can be mounted horizontaly on the frame, returned to the filler cap and installed in about an hour, look at luberfiner Z guard 9750 just drop the orfice size down to 0.06 to 0.078 and your done

 

I would go with one that was made for the 5.9 like the Amsoil, Oil Guard or the FS2500 and not one that has to be retrofitted to the engine. FYI Amsoil had to make a different by pass unit because of oil pressure loss on 2004 and newer engines. So be careful as if you get the wrong set up you could have oil pressure loss.

JMHO

 

I read the Cummins/Fleetguard tutorial and it was interesting for sure. They did mention that it's not recommended for the B-series motors due to limited oil pump capacity. They mentioned that they are developing a system for lower flow rates (1gpm). The system they discussed required a flow rate of 2gpm and 50-75psi pressure to work most efficiently.

The other issue would be punching a 1-1.25" hole in the pan above the sump line.

They mentioned that a system installed on a test motor was able to capture 350 grams of soot/contaminants (about 3/4 lb) in 400hrs.

Personally, I think it makes sense and I think it would work well if they end up making a system for the B-series motors.

I would probably still do an Amsoil bypass. It will remove 39% of soot in the sub 1 micron range, and is designed to be used on the B-series motors.

Even the Luberfiner filter says it should be used on motors with oil capacity greater than 16 quarts, and since they don't recommend the return line be routed through the valve cover, it makes installation more of a chore.