Best air filter?
 

Hey, ive got a k&n intake an filter, il be moving to vegas and i want to get a better air filter because everyone says that k&n filters dont filter enough. What should i buy? the intake has a 4" inlet.

My 98.5 has 289000 miles on the K&N, and my 2006 has 97000 on the K&N. I haven't had any problems yet with either one. I haven't figured out why people bash the K&N so much on this site. I like mine.

2 layers of filtration vs 9 layers in an S&B? I was on a baja team with a #1 class car and everyone in the class and many others stayed away from k&n because it would dust the motor 3 times faster than anything else.

I buy them from dodge. The k&N/s I've seen/used on other equipment have all had holes in the media about the size of a grain of sand. pull out a factory filter and look at the square inches of media embodied in the pleats. Compare that to a K/N. The oil in that filter is to fill in the gaps and cause dust to stick to it. I'd rather a filter have enough square inches of media of small enough porosity to keep out the bad bits.

Do you get your oil analyzed? A lot of guys get high silicate levels running K&N filters. Those drop when they go back to stock filters, so that proves the K&N's are letting dust through. Dust eats turbos and cylinder walls.

While you may be happy with your K&N (don't know what you are basing happy on) you may be shortening the life of your engine considerably. I guess time will tell, but getting the best used oil analysis possible is a good indicator of what's happening inside your engine.

I have been partial to AEM on my last 3 trucks. I just hook a replacement filter to the end of the stock tube and haven't had any issues.

OEM is the best you can do, but if you want to put a filter on your K&N intake then look at the Amsoil Nano-fiber universal filters.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eaau.aspx

I have yet to see any data anywhere that there's anything beter than the stock filter in the stock box

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....er=AF-53034249

Keep an eye on the filter minder, and change the filter when it says to.

Don't waste money on advertising hype, hearsay, and feelings. Follow the data, and save your money for fuel.

Isn't the fleetgaurd like $15 from Geno's? I just bought one but forgot.

The new 4" pleat ones are a little more, around $30 give or take.

I figured I would get a response like this. No I don't get my oil sampled, I think its a waste of money. I change my oil around every three thousand miles. I have never lost a turbo. I would say time has told. I have owned my pick-up since new and put the K&N on with less than a thousand miles on the truck. I live in the Desert of Wyoming with a lot of dust, and my pick-up has not had what I would call an easy life. It's still going as strong as ever, and
figure I'll get another 289000 miles out of it. Not going to change the air filter. I'm sorry I gave my opinion on the K&N. Maybe next time I'll give my two cents on what the best engine oil to use is. Or how about batteries?

Thanks for the info guys, im trying to decide now if i want the amsoil or the aem filter to put onto my k&n intake ive heard good about both of them.

Changing oil every 3K is a waste of money if you want to get down to it, but its probably necessacry considering the air filter you run. The OEM OCI is 7,500 miles, so try running that long with a K&N and see what the UOA looks like compared to a stock filter.

I have done oil analysis on my truck since it was new.

With the stock air filter my silicone level was 52.

I added an Amsoil oil bypass, silicone dropped to 20.

I put an Amsiol drop in filter in the silicone level dropped to 12.

Went to an aftermarket intake, no longer sucking air from the wheel well area - again using an Amsoil EaAu nano filter, silicone dropped to 9.

Then, I added a pre-filter, silicone dropped to 4.

All my oil changes were done at the same interval mileage of 5K. While the manufacturer recommends 7500, I chose to use 5K as my test point, am glad I did.

I live in a VERY dusty climate, drive on a lot of gravel roads, so controlling silicone is a must.

Since I do all my own oil changes and am not paying the $20 to have someone else change my oil, I decided the oil testing costs would just replace the labor costs of someone changing my oil for me. I guess you could say I am saving $5 on every oil change AND also getting the testing as a bonus.



The numbers DO speak for themselves, and btw I even test my gassers for silicone levels.




CD

CD, did you ever try the 4" pleat OEM filter? Its supposed to be a much better filter than the 2" version.

I alway had good silicone levels with the Amsoil, it just doesn't flow as much as stock.

Higher silicone levels are alse expected on new motors as gaskest's have silicone in them and it takes a few oil changes to get that out, so the high reading at first could be related to the new motor.