2 micron fuel/water systems
01-12-2011, 03:30 PM
#17
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So it looks like us with engine mounted APPS have to get a little creative.
The link below is a remote mount filter location of your choice.
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...nted-apps.aspx
The link below gets mounted on the inside of the frame rail. Looks good and seems like it would be protected in a side impact.
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...e-cummins.aspx
The link below gets mounted to the outside of the frame rail.
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...universal.aspx
I guess I'm on the fence on what to do. Since dealing with an APPS involves spending a little more money. I wait a little longer for more feed back. Seems like to me a remote filter behind the bumper is waiting to be torn off in an accident. I know that all the pump and filter systems mount to the out side of the frame rail but it seems unprotected in the event of a side impact. So I'm leaning towards the billet housing that mounts to the inside of the frame rail.
Thanks for you input.
The link below is a remote mount filter location of your choice.
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...nted-apps.aspx
The link below gets mounted on the inside of the frame rail. Looks good and seems like it would be protected in a side impact.
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...e-cummins.aspx
The link below gets mounted to the outside of the frame rail.
http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...universal.aspx
I guess I'm on the fence on what to do. Since dealing with an APPS involves spending a little more money. I wait a little longer for more feed back. Seems like to me a remote filter behind the bumper is waiting to be torn off in an accident. I know that all the pump and filter systems mount to the out side of the frame rail but it seems unprotected in the event of a side impact. So I'm leaning towards the billet housing that mounts to the inside of the frame rail.
Thanks for you input.
02-15-2011, 06:29 PM
#21
Registered User
see the photo and read this paste
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.
the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/175-1.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/172-1.jpg
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.
the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/175-1.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/172-1.jpg
02-25-2011, 12:05 PM
#24
Registered User
I open the water drain on the lowest filter and the one on the OEM filter, I then drain until nothing comes out. Its maybe 1/2 gal at most, but I dump it back in the tank.
02-25-2011, 12:44 PM
#25
AH-thanks, not bad--Waste not/want not. I shall do the mod . Really like your filter set-up..Well done
I used to work in a fleet shop and not worry about dumping fuel, kinda different when it your own $.
Thanks once again
I used to work in a fleet shop and not worry about dumping fuel, kinda different when it your own $.
Thanks once again
02-25-2011, 05:22 PM
#26
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I just put together a Baldwin fuel/water separator and a Baldwin 2u filter. Complete cost, including bases, fittings, and filters was right at $130. I'll pretty much follow the frame rail/rear seat bracket installation that carl48 posted except I used Baldwin bases(seems like NAPA doesn't carry them anymore), Baldwin filters, AN to 7/8-14UNF fittings and adaptors and I fabricated up a piece of 4"X10"X 1/4" flat stock for the mount. As soon as I get the truck into my friends shop I'll take some pics of the install and post a complete a list of materials. The hardest part of the whole deal was sourcing the 7/8-14 adaptors and connectors. As I found out, almost any hydraulic hose shop will have the fittings in stock. You can also check out http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters.html. I used a BF1259 Fuel/Water separator and a BF7587 2u along with 2 of the FB1311 bases. Total cost of the bases and filters was $92.21, delivered! Stay tuned sports fans
Carl48 did a real nice job of laying the whole thing out, thanks again
Carl48 did a real nice job of laying the whole thing out, thanks again
02-26-2011, 09:12 AM
#28
Registered User
see the photo and read this paste
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.
the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/175-1.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/172-1.jpg
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.
the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/175-1.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...jr48/172-1.jpg
essentially similar to GDP's setup.. im lookin at two of them very closely right now, for my dads truck and mine..
the 2 micron with water seperator dual setup similar to yours
and the 2 micron under the intake horn
both great setups from GDP, just an issue that makes me think
if the factory filter is a five micron, why filter it to a 2 micron filter way out back in the front of the tank, or on the frame?
wouldnt it make more sence just to use the stock one as a prefilter to a 2 micron right before the injection pump?
02-26-2011, 11:10 AM
#29
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very nice setup
essentially similar to GDP's setup.. im lookin at two of them very closely right now, for my dads truck and mine..
the 2 micron with water seperator dual setup similar to yours
and the 2 micron under the intake horn
both great setups from GDP, just an issue that makes me think
if the factory filter is a five micron, why filter it to a 2 micron filter way out back in the front of the tank, or on the frame?
wouldnt it make more sence just to use the stock one as a prefilter to a 2 micron right before the injection pump?
essentially similar to GDP's setup.. im lookin at two of them very closely right now, for my dads truck and mine..
the 2 micron with water seperator dual setup similar to yours
and the 2 micron under the intake horn
both great setups from GDP, just an issue that makes me think
if the factory filter is a five micron, why filter it to a 2 micron filter way out back in the front of the tank, or on the frame?
wouldnt it make more sence just to use the stock one as a prefilter to a 2 micron right before the injection pump?
02-26-2011, 11:19 AM
#30
Registered User
It really doesn't matter where you install the 2u filter as long as you install the water separator in line before either of the filters! I didn't get a chance to install my set-up today because after I got it up in the air, I didn't like the position and I had to make more mods to the bracket(s). I'll post the pics of the set-up later today along with a list of the fittings.
makes perfect sence.. thank you
lookin forward to seeing the pictures and fittings..