New codes
#1
New codes
Hey all, been following but never posted. I have a stock 2008 6.7L with 131,000+ miles. It has been running great stock. Recently drove from Phoenix to Prescott (1100ft to over 5000ft) and truck ran rough after stopping at a gas station, going into limp mode. Changed fuel filter and seemed to run fine. Now it has occasional low power issues and throws P0137, P2262 and P2563 codes. They usually turn off after a while. After changing the fuel filter, I also removed, cleaned and then replaced EGR cooler, valve, etc. I drive with the exhaust brake on all the time. Recently it seems like the exhaust brake has been sticking. Any help would be appreciated! I would love to keep this truck!
#2
The P2262 is the turbo, cleaning may or may not be an option. Mine had to be replaced but luckily was still under warranty at the time. P0137 is O2 sensor 1/2. Are you sure of P2563, could it actually be P2463? If so that is your DPF soot accumulation and may be related to the O2 sensor code. There are many others on this forum that can tell you much more. I only looked up the codes in the sticky but do have direct experience with P2262.
#3
Registered User
Iirc the 2563 code is also a turbo code.
P0137- Did you have the O2 recall done? Iirc it was to replace the first O2 sensor (1/2) and install insulation on the exhaust pipe. If you haven't had it done then it should be covered under the recall. If so then it may still be under warranty depending on when it was replaced.
P0137- Did you have the O2 recall done? Iirc it was to replace the first O2 sensor (1/2) and install insulation on the exhaust pipe. If you haven't had it done then it should be covered under the recall. If so then it may still be under warranty depending on when it was replaced.
#4
I checked my VIN and I did not have an O2 sensor recall listed and none of the recalls completed related to the emissions? Does someone have a link to that recall (maybe my truck is not included)?
The truck will intermittently have loss of power at mid throttle, then pick up again once rpms are up. Also the j-brake will intermittently seem to stick (staying on while under power).
I have heard that cleaning the turbo (2x) used to be procedure, but now they just replace?
Any help is appreciated!
The truck will intermittently have loss of power at mid throttle, then pick up again once rpms are up. Also the j-brake will intermittently seem to stick (staying on while under power).
I have heard that cleaning the turbo (2x) used to be procedure, but now they just replace?
Any help is appreciated!
#5
Registered User
The below references the O2 sensor module recall. I had the recall done on my 2007.5 a long, long time ago.
TSB #SB-18-016-10
NHTSA ID #10034230
Date Announced:
APRIL 30 2010
Additional Info:
How to Fix
Summary: DODGE: CCN UPDATE REQUIRED WITH J35 RECALL. INVOLVES VERIFYING EMISSION RECALL G30-REPLACE OXYGEN SENSOR MODULE AND REPROGRAM ECM HAS BEEN PERFORMED. IF NOT, PERFORM FIRST. VERIFYING SOFTWARE LEVEL, AND IF NECESSARY, SELECTIVELY ERASING
TSB #SB-18-016-10
NHTSA ID #10034230
Date Announced:
APRIL 30 2010
Additional Info:
How to Fix
Summary: DODGE: CCN UPDATE REQUIRED WITH J35 RECALL. INVOLVES VERIFYING EMISSION RECALL G30-REPLACE OXYGEN SENSOR MODULE AND REPROGRAM ECM HAS BEEN PERFORMED. IF NOT, PERFORM FIRST. VERIFYING SOFTWARE LEVEL, AND IF NECESSARY, SELECTIVELY ERASING
#7
"California Style"
Sounds like you have a turbo issue and is your main problem. Cleaning is a band aide unfortunately and may not even work or for a short time. Plan on a new turbo and delete the emissions to prevent recurring.
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#8
#9
So I located my O2 sensor 1/2 (pic didn't load), but didn't see any exhaust wrap...but 10yrs is a long time so maybe it fell off?
I was worried about the turbo going bad. I even made a device to check for exhaust leak, but at 10psi, only ever felt pressure from the crank case vent tube (which dumps into the fresh air intake).
Still, if I have to replace the turbo and delete, is this something I can complete? I have the normal set of tools and completed the EGR valve and cooler remove and clean without trouble, so at least I will have clean parts removed?
I was worried about the turbo going bad. I even made a device to check for exhaust leak, but at 10psi, only ever felt pressure from the crank case vent tube (which dumps into the fresh air intake).
Still, if I have to replace the turbo and delete, is this something I can complete? I have the normal set of tools and completed the EGR valve and cooler remove and clean without trouble, so at least I will have clean parts removed?
#10
Registered User
The delete and tuner you can do no problem. You can get the pros and cons of the different systems and hints on doing the exhaust removal when interested.
One thing to be aware of tho is if you need to get smog checks done at regular intervals. If so then you'll need to install all the stock crap to pass and then remove it again so you'll need a fully functioning exhaust to accomplish this.
Turbo replacement is a little harder but doable if you have the right tools and aren't an old fart like me that doesn't bend very well anymore. There are threads on the different sites on turbo how-to's that will help you out.
One thing to be aware of tho is if you need to get smog checks done at regular intervals. If so then you'll need to install all the stock crap to pass and then remove it again so you'll need a fully functioning exhaust to accomplish this.
Turbo replacement is a little harder but doable if you have the right tools and aren't an old fart like me that doesn't bend very well anymore. There are threads on the different sites on turbo how-to's that will help you out.
The following users liked this post:
ecmexchange (12-15-2017)
#11
I'm thinking I should do the delete and tuner first, then wait for the turbo replacement? I am currently registered in a no smog county through 2019, so no worries there. Any thoughts with full delete? Or just cat back and disconnect EGR? I am leaning towards the H&S mini maxx for my tuner.
#12
Registered User
Your biggest issue is the turbo and deleting won't cure it.
If you're set on deleting asap then you could consider doing sims and a dpf/NAC delete pipe until you can afford a tuner. Cost for sims and pipe would be around $150 if you shop around. Less if you make the sims yourself.
If you're set on deleting asap then you could consider doing sims and a dpf/NAC delete pipe until you can afford a tuner. Cost for sims and pipe would be around $150 if you shop around. Less if you make the sims yourself.
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