fflarry

I just ran 290 miles with my EGR disconnected and got 20.85 MPG hand calculated using a GPS (70 MPH all interstate). My overhead showed 22.9. Exhaust is stock, but I have an Airaid intake. With the EGR plugged in, the best I ever got was 17.5.

One problem, my cruise control will not work at times. I plugged the EGR back in and cleared the codes, and it started to work again. Guess I'll remove the butterfly valve and plug the coolant tube on the passenger side and see what happens. That way I can leave the EGR plugged in.

BroncoHound

You won't be able to leave the EGR plugged in if you block the crossover tube and remove the butterfly. The MAP sensor takes pressure readings and when the ECM sees that what it thinks is a properly working EGR isn't pumping any exhaust gas, it will throw a hard code and put the truck in limp mode. If you pull the butterfly and block the crossover tube, leave the EGR itself unplugged.

fflarry

Thanks. Is there any way to keep the cruise control from faulting when the EGR is unplugged?

BroncoHound

I honestly couldn't say, as my CC has never given me any problems. Maybe try clearing the codes before startup and see if that allows your CC to work properly.

sabercat

All the time, my egr has been unplugged, my CC has worked

Silver67

wher is the coolant tube and egr butterfly? i think i unplugged my egr valve this past weekend. seemed to have gotten a lii
ttle bettr
er mileage from houston to dallas w/ a head wind yesterday. want to do more like you.

Silver67

i also had no probs w/ cc.

BroncoHound

Read this thread. It explains the components and operation of the EGR system.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=218249

Silver67

Thanks. I know what it does, although i dont really know why or what is to gain from it. But i really don't care much if it is constantly costing me money. Besides how much good are all these emission controls if in the end we're burning more "toxifying" fuel any way. 14 mpg to 19-20 is a big difference in how much fuel we are burning. I just want to make sure that i am unplugging the right thing. Is it the siemens vdo mechanism just above the exhaust manifold? What is the mechanism on the intake side? Thanks for any help.

BroncoHound

The thread I linked to you has a clear picture on the last page showing the EGR on the intake side. It has a brown connector on it; THAT is the connector you disconnect. You do NOT disconnect the EGR servo motor (the VDO mechanism on the exhaust side) as it will cause problems if you disconnect it. Blocking the x-over tube keeps the soot buildup from turning into a sludge in the tube when the air condenses in there. The butterfly is located on the inside of the intake tube; it must be disconnected from the fresh air tube coming from the air filter box and removed from the inside. Again, ALL of this information is outlined in detail in the thread I linked you to.

fflarry

Found the EGR unplug wasn't causing my cruise control problems, but a bad switch is the problem. I found it by hitting my steering wheel and it started working. Maybe some WD-40 sprayed into the switch will work. Of course I'm 600 miles out of warranty!

Patriot2500

Those are great numbers. Just to be clear, the EGR unplug is the only mod you have done right? You still have your cat/DPF in place?

Hikecol7

Ok. Laugh if you must
Where is the EGR so I can try unpluggin it. I dont have a chip or a decoder or anything. My pickup is bone stock with the exception of a cold air intake. I still have the cat and DPF. Will unplugging the EGR work in this situation? If I plug it back in will codes go away on their own, etc?

Please let me know. If you have links to any photos the EGR that would help.

BroncoHound

*sigh* It helps if you read the threads in the 6.7L section. This is from a thread about 3 down from this one.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&postcount=243

fflarry

I have an intake mod, but still have stock exhaust. All I did was unplug the EGR.