6.7L High Performance
My exhaust almost has a coolant smell to it. Coolant level and oil check out fine so I'm not too worried about it.
I do have a ROKKTECH on my truck and it gave me a slight power gain off the line. I believe if I modified it for a bit more advance that it would help more but I just haven't felt like pulling it off to modify it.
Is it possible to tap into one of the pyro probes and use it for an EGT guage? Or is it too far down line to give a good reading. I am aware that post turbo numbers average about 300-400 degrees cooler but what about post downpipe?
I do have a ROKKTECH on my truck and it gave me a slight power gain off the line. I believe if I modified it for a bit more advance that it would help more but I just haven't felt like pulling it off to modify it.
Is it possible to tap into one of the pyro probes and use it for an EGT guage? Or is it too far down line to give a good reading. I am aware that post turbo numbers average about 300-400 degrees cooler but what about post downpipe?
Pyros are WAY down the pipe. Plus who knows what votage they run at. Tapping the manifold was super easy, just a bit tight. I used my 18V dealt impact driver (the one that takes the special bits) and it worked great.
Chris
Chris
Hey mnmlod, with your homemade delete setup, how do you know that your truck is not still going into regen? Without some type of fooler box wouldn't the ECM still command the regen to occur? I'm still thinking about trying this but not if I will still regen. BADP says they will not sell just the code free module without buying the whole setup.
I've just read too many stories of warranties being denied over the most minor mods like guages and intakes. This has been going on for years but it just seems that the big mfrs are at the end of their rope with all the warranty work and are taking a tougher stand then ever before. I know that if I put the deletes on the truck that my warranty will probably be toast anyways though. I don't really want guages or any kind of performance enhancer either.
BTW, I got yet another CEL on the way to work this morning. No codes again but the CEL is there and it will be there until tomorrow if I drive the truck hard until then. I will then get about 3-4 days free of these but it will come back soon after. Problem is that my mileage drops to about 12.5mpg when I am driving hard trying to get the CEL to go away!!
It's definitely time to get off my butt and do this. So, who has the new "Code Free" kit on their truck and is it finally truly code free? Also, any site sponsers selling the BADP kits????? If I can do this with no DL or Edge Juice then that's the way I want go. Anybody put one of these on and left the stock DP with the CAT in it? If so, how does it sound?
BTW, I got yet another CEL on the way to work this morning. No codes again but the CEL is there and it will be there until tomorrow if I drive the truck hard until then. I will then get about 3-4 days free of these but it will come back soon after. Problem is that my mileage drops to about 12.5mpg when I am driving hard trying to get the CEL to go away!!
It's definitely time to get off my butt and do this. So, who has the new "Code Free" kit on their truck and is it finally truly code free? Also, any site sponsers selling the BADP kits????? If I can do this with no DL or Edge Juice then that's the way I want go. Anybody put one of these on and left the stock DP with the CAT in it? If so, how does it sound?
There's really not a true code free kit. When deleting the DPF block off the EGR valve and unplug the connector. Doing so will create an CEL code. Also don't forget to remove the butterfly door out of the throttle body. And leave that connector plugged in.
I installed an H&S stage 2 kit on my Dad's 6.7 last weekend. He has a CEL for the EGR but none for the DPF. He can live with the CEL since the truck is running much better.
MikeyB
I installed an H&S stage 2 kit on my Dad's 6.7 last weekend. He has a CEL for the EGR but none for the DPF. He can live with the CEL since the truck is running much better.
MikeyB
Someone over at the "Other" CTD site says instead of buying the EGR block off plates he just unplugged the plug to his EGR and it is no longer functional. Now, he has an Edge Juice so it clears the EGR code but for those of us who don't want to put an Edge Juice on our trucks, is the EGR code for this gonna put the truck in limp mode? It sure would be nice if it was this simple.....
Unplugging the EGR shouldn't put the truck into limp mode. Unplugging the throttlebody or the EGR cooler will cause a limp mode I believe.
But you will still need to do the DPF delete, because it will still fill up with soot eventually. And will need to remove the butterfly door from the throttlebody with the EGR shutoff.
MikeyB
But you will still need to do the DPF delete, because it will still fill up with soot eventually. And will need to remove the butterfly door from the throttlebody with the EGR shutoff.
MikeyB
Hey mnmlod, with your homemade delete setup, how do you know that your truck is not still going into regen? Without some type of fooler box wouldn't the ECM still command the regen to occur? I'm still thinking about trying this but not if I will still regen. BADP says they will not sell just the code free module without buying the whole setup.
Thanks for the info. Now, where do i get one of those boxes?????
So, where exactly is this butterfly valve? I saw the picture you posted somewhere MikeyB but I can't remember what topic or what site I saw it on. The guy over at CF says he did nothing to the butterfly valve at all. Another guy has chimed in and says he did the same and his truck still runs fine and he also got a 2 mpg increase.....
So, where exactly is this butterfly valve? I saw the picture you posted somewhere MikeyB but I can't remember what topic or what site I saw it on. The guy over at CF says he did nothing to the butterfly valve at all. Another guy has chimed in and says he did the same and his truck still runs fine and he also got a 2 mpg increase.....
The pictures are on page 6 of this thread.
For the EGR to work the butterfly door closes choking off clean air from the turbo and starts drawing dirty sooty air from the EGR system for reburn. Removing the door the engine will always have nice clean air all the time. And a nice drop in EGTs.
MikeyB
For the EGR to work the butterfly door closes choking off clean air from the turbo and starts drawing dirty sooty air from the EGR system for reburn. Removing the door the engine will always have nice clean air all the time. And a nice drop in EGTs.
MikeyB
Thanks for the info. Now, where do i get one of those boxes?????
So, where exactly is this butterfly valve? I saw the picture you posted somewhere MikeyB but I can't remember what topic or what site I saw it on. The guy over at CF says he did nothing to the butterfly valve at all. Another guy has chimed in and says he did the same and his truck still runs fine and he also got a 2 mpg increase.....
So, where exactly is this butterfly valve? I saw the picture you posted somewhere MikeyB but I can't remember what topic or what site I saw it on. The guy over at CF says he did nothing to the butterfly valve at all. Another guy has chimed in and says he did the same and his truck still runs fine and he also got a 2 mpg increase.....


