Wont start when cold unless plugged in
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1
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Wont start when cold unless plugged in
Truck info:
-2005 Dodge 2500 Diesel
-137,000 miles
-Oil and Fuel filters changed within 3000 miles
Essentially what is happening is that the truck starts perfectly fine when it is 60+ degrees out and barely cranks before it kicks over. Also the 'Wait to Start' light stays on for less than 5 seconds which from what I can tell from the tables posted all over the place (Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems).
I did troubleshooting based on a lot of the different articles that I found from searching 'Dodge Diesel Grid Heater problems' or 'Dodge diesel hard start', etc. Here is what I have done up until this point:
-Replaced both relays
-Replaced Grid Heater
-Listen for clicking noise (supposedly relays/grid heater being utilized) and its there, louder since replacing heater and relays
-Testing voltage and resistance of relays and both are what the troubleshooting articles say they should be
-Tested voltage when truck key is turned on at the 'Output to Heater' posts on both of the relays and they show 12V and go back to 0 when shut off.
-Tested voltage when truck key is turned on at the 'power' terminals on the grid heater and both show 12V and go back to 0 when shut off.
-Tested before/after temperature of grid heater by touch and infrared temp gun in both scenarios you could tell it was significantly warmer and the 'red horn' temperature above the grid heater was significantly higher.
-I bought this truck used off of someone 4-6 months ago and was told the batteries were both replaced within the last two years. I have not had any other issues related to make me think batteries are weak. Both seem to test fine at advanced auto parts and charge and stay at the 14 mark when truck is running.
The problem is this morning it was around 35 degrees fahrenheit and it would not start. I turn the key to the on position and the 'wait to start' light stays on for right around 10 seconds or so then goes off. I then attempt to start the truck and hold it for 10 seconds and still no luck. Let it sit for a couple minutes to let starter cool down and then try again and same results. I end up having to plug the truck in for an hour or so and then it starts up right away as if it were 60+ degrees outside.
Any suggestions on where I should be looking next?
-2005 Dodge 2500 Diesel
-137,000 miles
-Oil and Fuel filters changed within 3000 miles
Essentially what is happening is that the truck starts perfectly fine when it is 60+ degrees out and barely cranks before it kicks over. Also the 'Wait to Start' light stays on for less than 5 seconds which from what I can tell from the tables posted all over the place (Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems).
I did troubleshooting based on a lot of the different articles that I found from searching 'Dodge Diesel Grid Heater problems' or 'Dodge diesel hard start', etc. Here is what I have done up until this point:
-Replaced both relays
-Replaced Grid Heater
-Listen for clicking noise (supposedly relays/grid heater being utilized) and its there, louder since replacing heater and relays
-Testing voltage and resistance of relays and both are what the troubleshooting articles say they should be
-Tested voltage when truck key is turned on at the 'Output to Heater' posts on both of the relays and they show 12V and go back to 0 when shut off.
-Tested voltage when truck key is turned on at the 'power' terminals on the grid heater and both show 12V and go back to 0 when shut off.
-Tested before/after temperature of grid heater by touch and infrared temp gun in both scenarios you could tell it was significantly warmer and the 'red horn' temperature above the grid heater was significantly higher.
-I bought this truck used off of someone 4-6 months ago and was told the batteries were both replaced within the last two years. I have not had any other issues related to make me think batteries are weak. Both seem to test fine at advanced auto parts and charge and stay at the 14 mark when truck is running.
The problem is this morning it was around 35 degrees fahrenheit and it would not start. I turn the key to the on position and the 'wait to start' light stays on for right around 10 seconds or so then goes off. I then attempt to start the truck and hold it for 10 seconds and still no luck. Let it sit for a couple minutes to let starter cool down and then try again and same results. I end up having to plug the truck in for an hour or so and then it starts up right away as if it were 60+ degrees outside.
Any suggestions on where I should be looking next?
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,528
Likes: 16
From: Oregon
Measure injector return flow. As the injectors wear they bleed more fuel into the return system. If that gets excessive, the pump won't develop enough pressure when cranking for the injectors to fire.
I don't believe your issue is related to the grid heater system. It is possible to start my truck below freezing without being plugged in and without waiting for the grid heater.
A buddy of mine had the same symptoms- wouldn't start in cold weather, and it turned out it was the injectors.
I don't believe your issue is related to the grid heater system. It is possible to start my truck below freezing without being plugged in and without waiting for the grid heater.
A buddy of mine had the same symptoms- wouldn't start in cold weather, and it turned out it was the injectors.
Cummins Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 65
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I would buy fuel rail capping tool and cap injector line at rail one by one until you found injector causing the no start. You usually find the leaking injector this way. Also check your oil level and make sure it isn't above the FULL mark. You could have a cracked injector then. Don't wait until you get engine wash out, if oil level is well above full mark you have cracked injector.
Fuel rail capping tool
Fuel Rail Block Off Cap 9864
Cummins Injector Leak Diagnosis May Be Easier, But Can Still Be Tricky - Engine Builder Magazine
Fuel rail capping tool
Fuel Rail Block Off Cap 9864
Cummins Injector Leak Diagnosis May Be Easier, But Can Still Be Tricky - Engine Builder Magazine
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
I had same kind of problem but it would start after cranking 20 seconds or so and then finally not at all without some help like starter fluid.
After replacing several items like COF. PRV. Checking pressure on pick up pump. I finally took to a shop. They said injector was bad. #5. They replaced. Started. Drove home and #2 was leaking fuel. Took back they fixed leak but then no start again. They said another injector went. Fixed and happened again. Finally replaced all 6.
Picked it up. Drove around. Seemed to crank a little more each start. Next day for work. No start. Had to use either. I am baffled now. Any ideas?
After replacing several items like COF. PRV. Checking pressure on pick up pump. I finally took to a shop. They said injector was bad. #5. They replaced. Started. Drove home and #2 was leaking fuel. Took back they fixed leak but then no start again. They said another injector went. Fixed and happened again. Finally replaced all 6.
Picked it up. Drove around. Seemed to crank a little more each start. Next day for work. No start. Had to use either. I am baffled now. Any ideas?
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