Ive had mine replaced 3 times in the past 2000 miles
each time the mechanics said the bearing was so shot it was basically free spinning.
I dont get it

 

I'm guessing something is warped, out of alignment or out of balance. Next time it may behoove you to pull all the clutch components out and check them over.

 

What year truck. I don't have an answer but if some others are farmiluar with the truck they may have an answer for you.

 

Look at the Pressure Plate arms to make sure one is not out of whack. They all must be level when contacting the throwout bearing. I also could be a hydrolic issue causing pressure to constantly be on the TO bearing against the pressure plate arms. Where does it disengage when you mash on the clutch pedal? That will help point you in the right direction.

 

The truck is an 06 3500 so i am dealing with the G56 clutch components

I talked to the service guys after they did the work and asked them what the clutch components looked like. They said the clutch looked brand new(truck only has 35K on it) as did the clutch components. The clutch seems like it has a pretty small engagement zone mostly near the top of the pedal when I mash it. even the tech noted it seemed like it had a "hair trigger"
He told me if i decided for them to open it up again he would check the pressure plate again to make sure it wasnt going out even though it looked fine at the 1st inspection.

i just hate to constantly have these guys dropping my trans and dismantling everything. I feel like it just makes a greater chance to have something screwed up when they put it back together.

 

most throw out bearings are damaged by the driver.
they have the clutch pedal in(bearing spinning) while waiting at stop lights
when the clutch is in, they rev it up
they rest their foot on the pedal when driving, slightly contacting the bearing and making it spin
the bearing is not designed to take much more speed that above idle, nor continuous use.
so sitting there with the pedal in, makes it turn way too long, overheats the rollers, and she's done. same thing with riding the pedal or revving it up with the clutch in. Not saying you do that.
but that is generally the culprit

 

Great Advice! Not many people aware of that.

being in traffic/stoplight & keeping truck in gear w/ clutch pedal in is right up there w/ resting you hand on the gearshift & wondering why the shiftfork/synchro wears. Alot of people do that not aware of the damage they are causing.

 

Ditto with what dodgzilla said.... especially riding down the highway with their foot resting on the pedal..... That destroys throwout bearings.

 

I can completely understand that
great advice
I always stop and let the clutch out and pull the truck out of gear mainly because I agree that sitting there with it in is hard on clutch components and parts.
I think my problem is definately related somehow to a warped pressure plate arm or something
This last time they replaced the bearing I drove the truck home, got in it the next morning and the bearing was screaming @ me again pulling it out of the driveway.

 

wow, so its not you.
get rid of that stock clutch anyway. you'll have to sooner or later, and if you're getting good at pulling the trans, it wont take you any amount of time...

a warped pressure plate will cause alot of chatter when engaging the clutch under heavy loads, as the friction disc makes intermittent contact before full engagement.
when its out this time, check to make sure the release fork is even on both sides, use a straightedge to check the surface of the pressure plate.

 

thanks for the help!
what type of clutch would you recommend for aftermarket?

 

well southbend is the company of choice. the clutch type depends on the truck usage. i run a con ofe. tows nice, holds more than its rated for, and actually held up to a sled pull.

 

I pull trailers( nothing over about 8-10 K)
I usually run with a pretty hefty payload of about 2-3K as well so I need something decent
I checked south bends site and they have several different types of OFE clutches
Is it wrong to get a clutch that is rated for more than my current HP and torque ratings? I dont plan on modding my engine anytime in the future.

 

my dads g56 clutch let go @ 62,000,mine made it to 65,000 (both pulling up to 38k lbs) installing a south bend 350hp($700)and hydraulics($250)

 

you dont want to get too carried away with a clutch. i bought an OFE(rated for 450) cause of where i was with mods. installed the clutch and dyno'd over 500. oops. but the clutch is just fine. call peter at SBC and talk with him, he will steer you straight without trying to make more $