What Weight Motor Oil?
I run Schaeffers 9000 5w40 synthetic. Some of the best synthetic stuff you can get. I run it only for the cold weather benefits of synthetic oil. Plus I run a tad bit more than stock horsepower, so I want the added protection. You can probably get it shipped to you for much less than what amsoil is just for their product.
Schaeffers oil is GREEN... kinda looks wild.
Schaeffers oil is GREEN... kinda looks wild.
Distillates,(petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic 60-70%
Polyalphaolefin Synthetic Base Fluids 20-25%
rest is additives.
No doubt that it's good oil, but how can 60-70% group III be some of the best?
I'm in the same boat as you and only drive mine about 5~6k per year. I changed my oil for the first time at about 3k and had exactly 6005 miles on my second oil change. Both times have been Rotella 15W-40 CJ rated oil (couldnt find CI4+). I did an oil analysis for the second change and the analysis came back great. There were some higher metals they attributed to the engine being so new but even then they were only right at the normalized values or maybe 1 ppm above. My TBN was also still pretty high (CJ starts at about 10 I think and mine was right above 7), I probably could've run another 3~4k on that oil.
I still believe I'll stick to a yearly change though and I'll certainly stick with Rotella. I probably will switch to the 5W-40 though when I get it good and broken in just to help out in the winter and I'll continue to do oil analysis. The analysis is pretty fun to look at, will be helpful because I can trend the wear of the engine and if anything changes all of a sudden I've got a heads up on it. Plus for about $20 every year its not too bad a deal.
Another plus about using a common oil like Rotella is you can go to just about any gas station and that is their diesel oil.
With that said, when I get around to changing my diffs, transmission, transfer case and power steering fluid I will use something like Amsoil. I have seen it improve shifting in other applications before and think it couldnt hurt to try out. My G56 gets smoother and smoother every day so if I see the improvement like I've seen in other applications I will be impressed.
I still believe I'll stick to a yearly change though and I'll certainly stick with Rotella. I probably will switch to the 5W-40 though when I get it good and broken in just to help out in the winter and I'll continue to do oil analysis. The analysis is pretty fun to look at, will be helpful because I can trend the wear of the engine and if anything changes all of a sudden I've got a heads up on it. Plus for about $20 every year its not too bad a deal.
Another plus about using a common oil like Rotella is you can go to just about any gas station and that is their diesel oil.
With that said, when I get around to changing my diffs, transmission, transfer case and power steering fluid I will use something like Amsoil. I have seen it improve shifting in other applications before and think it couldnt hurt to try out. My G56 gets smoother and smoother every day so if I see the improvement like I've seen in other applications I will be impressed.
Go to Bobistheoilguy.com and READ
Due to illness my truck has not had 3k put on in in almost TWO years.Has Amsoil 15w40 H.D. in it.Once I hit 3k I'll change it.I don't want to use any common oil that any gas station carrys in a situation like my truck is in.My New Holland tractor is in the same situation with the same Amsoil in it.Its had about 30 hours on it in almost two years.
You Might want to read the last three issues of Turbo Diesel Register. They sent blind oil samples to an oil lab. Amsoil ranked only in the good and not the best category. The articles proved to me than I can not justify the cost of synthetic: so today after 33 years of Amsoil, I have switched.
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
And the unending debate continues..... Engines don't fail or last longer due to brand of quality oil. Oil failures are result of improper oil change intervals or not at all. Also unreasonable operations of engines are causes. EOA's are excellent tool for determining reasonable oil change schedule for your engine and your opeating conditions. JMHO
I've driven several gas engine cars 250k on Amsoil 25k oil changes with no blow by or sludge with leak down tests showing healthy motors and sold them still running good.Plus the UOAs that are posted on www.bobistheoilguy.com forums rank Amsoil as one of the top tier oils over and over here in the USA and in European autos.That's enough proof for me.
I got Amsoil synthetic in everything that rides,pulls,cuts and has hydraulic lift.It has improved the way my stuff runs,stops,lifts,shifts.Plus I leave it in twice as long or more then standard fluids with confidence.My 1998 1500 truck had torque converter lock up shudder with ATF+4 even after a couple of drain and refills.I did a fluid exchange at 40k on it with Amsoil ATf and now at 94k it still shifts great and has no torque converter lock up shudder.My New Holland tractor had shudder cold in the lift and same deal with the Amsoil hydraulic oil.No shudder at any temp.The hydraulic clutch and wet brakes perform smoother and better plus its been in TWICE the hours the factory calls for.I like Amsoil products plus ease of ordering and big brown delivers.Their synthetic wheel bearing grease I have used and have had autos that never got a bearing pack in 100k and didn't really need it then when brakes done.Lots of GOOD synthetic lubes out there.If not Amsoil I'd be using someone else's Group 4 lubes.
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