What are signs of an injector going bad?
12-13-2013, 10:12 PM
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently Nevada
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks! It's a relief knowing I'll have parts here probably by Tuesday or Wednesday.
Speaking of -- the FCA is an easy swap. What about the PRV? I'm guessing it's that thing on the end of the fuel rail, up underneath the cowling? How does it come off, what with that line coming out of it?
Rob
Speaking of -- the FCA is an easy swap. What about the PRV? I'm guessing it's that thing on the end of the fuel rail, up underneath the cowling? How does it come off, what with that line coming out of it?
Rob
12-13-2013, 10:29 PM
#48
Registered User
I haven't ever removed one, but I believe you remove the banjo holding the return down, then remove the PRV and reverse. I think it's a simple job. If the torque spec's aren't in the box give Todd a call back.
12-16-2013, 09:26 PM
#49
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently Nevada
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BTW -- do I have to depressurize the system before trying to remove it? I would imagine there's a bit of fuel pressure built up in there, even if it's leaking down.
Parts are here.. I pick them up in the morning. Good thing too, since the idle is getting much worse. I'm to the point of worrying if it'll continue running.
Rob
Parts are here.. I pick them up in the morning. Good thing too, since the idle is getting much worse. I'm to the point of worrying if it'll continue running.
Rob
12-17-2013, 01:50 PM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently Nevada
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IT'S ALIVE!!!
And not a moment too soon. It nearly didn't start this morning just to go pick up the parts.
The replacement was super easy. It doesn't get much easier than that. I think I spent 15 minutes on both items. Then, with fingers crossed, I attempted to start it. I expected it to crank for a bit since pressure had fallen off. But nope, it fired right up like it's old self!
I went for a short drive down the street and back, and there's no more bouncing idle, and no more hesitation when shifting and rolling onto the throttle again -- something I hadn't realized was even a problem. That tells me these things have been going bad for a while now.
Yay!! Thanks a ton for all the help!
Rob
And not a moment too soon. It nearly didn't start this morning just to go pick up the parts.
The replacement was super easy. It doesn't get much easier than that. I think I spent 15 minutes on both items. Then, with fingers crossed, I attempted to start it. I expected it to crank for a bit since pressure had fallen off. But nope, it fired right up like it's old self!
I went for a short drive down the street and back, and there's no more bouncing idle, and no more hesitation when shifting and rolling onto the throttle again -- something I hadn't realized was even a problem. That tells me these things have been going bad for a while now.
Yay!! Thanks a ton for all the help!
Rob
12-17-2013, 10:08 PM
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently Nevada
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay so one more question, not related though. I'm doing balljoints starting on Friday most likely. I have all the tools located and a shop to work in. The video I saw makes it look fairly straightforward.
I plan to do the U-joints on the ends of the axles too, since I have the whole thing apart. I could get Spicers, which I know are good, for $72-ish each (ouch). I could get whatever Carquest sells for $55 each, or I could get AutoZone's Duralast Gold for $22 each.
Seeing as how I'm seriously broke, I'm considering the $22 ones. I don't see how they could be any worse than OEM. I wish I had the cash to do the Spicers, but I really don't.
Thoughts?
Rob
I plan to do the U-joints on the ends of the axles too, since I have the whole thing apart. I could get Spicers, which I know are good, for $72-ish each (ouch). I could get whatever Carquest sells for $55 each, or I could get AutoZone's Duralast Gold for $22 each.
Seeing as how I'm seriously broke, I'm considering the $22 ones. I don't see how they could be any worse than OEM. I wish I had the cash to do the Spicers, but I really don't.
Thoughts?
Rob
12-18-2013, 07:47 AM
#54
Registered User
OEM is actually pretty good, so it would be easy to be worse than OEM.
I recall all of the shops I talked to about u-joints recommending the AAM's, best in terms of reliability and longevity.
Greasable joints are actually weaker than non-greasable.
I recall all of the shops I talked to about u-joints recommending the AAM's, best in terms of reliability and longevity.
Greasable joints are actually weaker than non-greasable.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Capp35
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
11
09-15-2011 01:21 PM
kycurs
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
1
07-22-2006 07:13 PM
