What miles did you change Dino to synthetic oil and did your engine start leaking?
 

What miles did you change from Dino engine oil to Synthetic oil? Did changing to synthetic oil start your engine to leak oil any at all?

I am using shell rotella, thinking about going to Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic. Got about 52,000 miles on the truck.

Thanks

Do it around 20K & read my post about amsoil leaks(seems it's not a problem).

I switched from Regular Rotella to Rotella Synthetic at 75,000 miles. I am at 78,000 now, don't notice any leaks.

Switched at 57500 to synthetic Rotella 5-40. Now at 72000 and no leaks. Truck runs noticably smoother and cold starts are easier.

I switched to rotella synthetic at 47000, havent noticed any leaks. have 48500 now

I think the whole leaking thing is a myth, I've changed many high mileage vehicles over to synthetic without any leaks or ill effects. Although I'm running regular ol' rotella in my truck now, hey if it's good enough for the semis it's good enough for me!

switched at 35k and no leaks. should i be worried? :)

i changed at 15k, no leaks at all

changed at 128,000 miles to rotella syn 5w40, not leaks and have 133,000 now. not sure what was run before, but i don't think it was syn oil.

Changed at 1k (1024) miles to Amsoil AME 15w-40 and on the recommendation of Blackstone (still showing some 'break-in' materials) changed @ 6078 miles (Rotella CI-4+ 5w-40). No apparent oil usage or leaks. :D

Do you guys extend the oil change intervals when running synthetic??? Blackstone recommended synthetic??? wierd....

Changed @15,000 miles from dino Chevron 15-40 to synthetic Amsoil 5-30. No leaks or problems observed.

i changed to Amsoil 5-40 (about 15000 miles ago) i now notice my valve cover gasket is wet

Changed to Valvoline Extremee blue at 9000k Last December and I just changed it last weekend with 18375miles on that oil. According to blackstone that metals were a little high at that mileage but I could go further If I wanted because the TBN was still very good at 7.5. Also noted that my Bypass was working very well dut to insolubles were lower than average.

BTW I have never had a leak.

I changed from Delo400 to Amsoil 15w40 HD diesel and marine motor oil at about 10k miles. I have 43k on the truck now with no leaks.
Scott

I am using ESSO 0w40 synthetic oil. The number 40 is the one which is important at high operating temperatures. I think you should be more concerned if you have a second number lower than 40. The first number has to do with how well the oil flows when cold- it has nothing to do with the oil being "thinner" when the engine is at high temperature. In fact, with a good quality synthetic oil, it should be useful to have a lower first number, because when you start your truck cold, the oil pressures up faster. The "lighter" oils at high operating temperatures are the 30 weight oils- eg. 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, or 15w30. 40 weight oils are recommended for the Cummins.:cool:

Changed mine at 38k with no leaks. I have noticed my engine runes smoother and my load at idle droped 2% (looked at the edge) I send my oil in for analasis but i have extended my oil changes

Thanks for the replys. Thinking about going to Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic 5w-40, but i can't find it. One place , car quest can order it.

oil pan heater fixes that problem. I have mine hardwired into my coolant heater. So i plug 1 plug in and it runs both my coolant heater and my oil pan heater.

Use AMSOIL 5-40 Thats what i use. You talk about QUITE and SMOOTH! Dont get any better.[roll] Been in it sents new.

Oil
 

Going to switch mine on first oil change.....5500 miles....won't hurt a thing![coffee]

The oil pan heater is a good idea. What I'm saying is that even in the summer months, an oil with a lower first number will pressure up faster, which can't be a bad thing.:cool:

Can you prove or expand upon your comment that during summer months a 0 weight will pressure faster than a 15w?- don't forget it may be a 0 weight at a given temp but when it warms up the viscosity also increases to a higher number...
edit- I should have said that when warm the viscosity acts as a higher number-IE 40 weight at operating temp. It will always be more viscous when cold.

So, it is highly possible that your 0W40 say, at 80 degrees f may actually be thicker than a 15W at the same temp- all depends on the brand and the viscosity at a certain temp.

changed over to rotella synthetic at 10,000 miles. at 21,000 now with no leaks so far

anyone use shaffer, does it work well in these motors? [newbie to dodge]

Cummins Corporate website says it's OK to switch to full synthetic in these motors after break in period which depends on how you use your truck the first 10-20k miles. I switched at 15k to Amsoil. No problems.

From the Cummins website

Is it OK to use synthetic oil with my Cummins engine?
Cummins recommends that you not use synthetic motor oil during the break-in period. The Owner's Manual contains information on the type of oil that is recommended throughout the life cycle of your engine.

How many miles does the Cummins engine require for break-in?
In general, the engine requires 5000 miles for break-in. This depends on the type of driving the truck is subject to; hauling or towing a load will shorten the break-in period. Light duty hauling or "babying" the engine can delay full engine break-in for up-to 20,000 miles. It is best to avoid high engine rpm's during the break-in period.

Changed to Mobil 1 5W-40 at 22,500 miles. No leaks.

I am using Shaeffer's 9000 in conjunction with amsoil bypass filter. I am getting 20k oil changes. Oil analysis by blackstone labs says engine is doing very well. I have 120k miles.

Oil
 

Changed at 3K, no problem other than black oil

I switched mine at 12K.

No negative issues at all-- no oil consumption problems, no low MPG or anything.

I've also switched back to dino, and back again to syn. NO problems.

I've mixed syn and dino. I've mixed 15W-40 and 10W-30. NO problems. Consumption remains normal-- which is to say that it doesn't seem to burn a drop between changes.


Cummins says 20K and there's nothing wrong with that, but I think it's a little cautious. Engine break-in is a logarithmic function, and 20K isn't much different than 10K.

I think we're on the same track. Let's say the oil is made by the same company. 0W40, 5W40, 10W40, and 15W40 should all be the same viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. Obviously the 0W40 will be less viscous at say -30 Celsius. I am not sure whether it will be less viscous than the others when you start up at +20 celsius in the summer. However, you can use synthetics such as Esso 0W40, or Dello 5W40 for easier starts in the colder months. So- what's important I guess, is that all the oils with a 40 weight will only thin out a certain amount at a really hot (say 100 Celsius) temperature. I suppose there are other 30 weight oils made by another manufacturer that will stay as viscous at those temps.??[coffee]

Changed to Amsoil 15-w40HD at 20k, now running a less expensive syn., Rottela-T 5w-40. No problems

Differance in price is also the differance between a Group 4 full synthetic and a Group Three dino oil thats caled synthetic and just been cooked a lttle better and longer then standered oil.You get what you pay for.

I saw it at Autozone.

I just changed my oil to Rotella synthetic, 40k miles, no leaks,