What brake pads to get? Mopar v Or oem?
09-25-2009, 04:40 PM
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What brake pads to get? Mopar v Or oem?
Well I'm in need of some new front brakes soon and need some advice. I would like to stick to the stock pads as they seem to work well, I'm over 76k and still have some left. I went to the dealer and asked what they had they said they have the mopar value line for $68 or the oem ones for $148 witch seemed step to me. Is there a difference between the two to justify the price difference? I'm more then happy with the stock pads and read to many horror stories about after market pads. I'm replacing the rotors just stock blanks also. Any advice would be appreciated.
09-25-2009, 06:15 PM
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My dealer was not so nice to me and stuck me for almost a hundred bucks for the Value-Line pads. The OEMs were about $80 more. I wish I would have gotten the OEMs because these are squeaking after just a couple weeks. That's the whole reason I stay away from aftermarket pads. They have always squeaked for me. So, I get to pull them off again and put some more brake quiet on them. In their defense the stuff I put on them was a few years old and had gotten kind of runny. That may be my problem right there.
Either way, you can get the value lines from Genos Garage for a lot less money. I didn't realize this until it was too late.....
Either way, you can get the value lines from Genos Garage for a lot less money. I didn't realize this until it was too late.....
09-25-2009, 06:26 PM
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OEM, you wont regret it. I have never had good luck with aftermarket. 90k on my stock ones, i am very impressed. They are still perfectly smooth with no pulse. Im gonna get OEM when these wear out in prolly 15-20k and hopefullly never have to worry about brakes while I own the truck.
09-25-2009, 09:59 PM
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Go OEM it is worth it if you keep the truck. I got 100k out of the stock pads with 1/8" - 1/4" left, new pads are 1/2"My rotors were toast from rust so I replaced them also. OEM come with a great backing coating to prevent chatter/squeal. Just peel of the protective paper coating before installing
Used AIMCO extreme duty rotors on the front. The OEM also come with stainless steel clips. Use high temp nickel based never seize on the clips and mounts. I also clean the slide pins and rubber boots. Have always used never seize with the pins and inside the boots and applied pure silicone lube gel to the outside (only), brake lines and caliper boots. Been doing this for 30 years.....works......also flush your brake system. I'm at 120K and the rear brakes have 3/8 to 5/16 left on them. Not bad for 6 1/2 years, best brakes I have serviced or owned. The engineers really got the brakes right on these trucks from the factory.....HEAVY DUTY
Used AIMCO extreme duty rotors on the front. The OEM also come with stainless steel clips. Use high temp nickel based never seize on the clips and mounts. I also clean the slide pins and rubber boots. Have always used never seize with the pins and inside the boots and applied pure silicone lube gel to the outside (only), brake lines and caliper boots. Been doing this for 30 years.....works......also flush your brake system. I'm at 120K and the rear brakes have 3/8 to 5/16 left on them. Not bad for 6 1/2 years, best brakes I have serviced or owned. The engineers really got the brakes right on these trucks from the factory.....HEAVY DUTY
09-25-2009, 11:04 PM
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Wish i could get the same from mine!!! 40000 on OEM and at 30000 on the Napa and 20000 on the Wagners. Noticed lately the pedal feels spongy, any ideals on what it could be, worn rubber lines, old fluid???
09-25-2009, 11:40 PM
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[QUOTE=dieseloutlaw1;2587682]Wish i could get the same from mine!!! 40000 on OEM and at 30000 on the Napa and 20000 on the Wagners. Noticed lately the pedal feels spongy, any ideals on what it could be, worn rubber lines, old fluid???
Yah... dude you need to rebuild or have you calipers rebuilt for you. If the calipers don't retract into the bore because the cylinder wall is scored, or boot is toast, the pad puts too much pressure on the rotor and wears the pad. Also the caliper mount slides or pins could gum up with rust preventing the pads from retracting. A pad slap and go is not always the easy way. Have I answered your question?
Yah... dude you need to rebuild or have you calipers rebuilt for you. If the calipers don't retract into the bore because the cylinder wall is scored, or boot is toast, the pad puts too much pressure on the rotor and wears the pad. Also the caliper mount slides or pins could gum up with rust preventing the pads from retracting. A pad slap and go is not always the easy way. Have I answered your question?
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09-26-2009, 04:50 AM
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My truck only has 32000 miles on it (had 25000 when I got it) and the pads were already shot. I think the last owner kept one foot on the brake at all times. Here in the DC area I usually don't get more than 40000 or so miles out of my front brakes though....
09-26-2009, 07:39 AM
#10
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I have 48k on my rig now and it is in need of pads. I will be putting Performance Friction pads on it for less that the dealer charges for their "value" line. Just a heads up for you guy's. I swapped all my International car carriers over to Performance Friction pads and rotors and have tripled the change interval on brakes.
If ya'll want I will post pad and rotor #'s. It will be Monday after I get to my shop.
If ya'll want I will post pad and rotor #'s. It will be Monday after I get to my shop.
09-28-2009, 12:39 PM
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I made the mistake of trying to save a buck and I bought the "value line" from the dealer. I have never seen so much brake dust in my life. They are junk IMO. I would never buy them again.
Jay
Jay
09-28-2009, 02:35 PM
#13
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I made the same mistake and purchased the so called "value line" pads as well for my 2001.5. What a mistake that was. Constant cleaning of a brown dust from the wheels and the squealing gets old really quick. I quickly went OEM and have had no further issues.
09-28-2009, 02:49 PM
#14
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The other pads often mentioned positively here are the Hawk's!
Both run about $80.00 a pair.
RJ
