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Petcock issue resolved! I slept the frustration off last night, and went back out today and had it out in just a minute or two. I spun it to the most loose position, and tugged on it with pliers while prying with a small flat screwdriver. It wasn't even broken, it had just spun in the seat it sets in. I cleaned it and put it back in the correct position, and added a little distilled water to test. It worked fine and didn't leak, now that I know how it works. I didn't even need to buy a new one. Thanks for the help.
Water pump change went flawlessly thanks to this thread. No leaks and no air lock. Temp came up in the same time it always takes, and never got any warmer than it ever does. Burping it at the heater hose on the head works! I poured the last bit of coolant in slowly, and it was quiet enough in the garage to actually hear the air burping out of the nipple. If your mind went there.....yes, (.)(.) are our friends! lol Thanks to the OP for the write up. Everyone else learn from my F up on the plastic drain petcock in the radiator, and only turn it till it starts dripping. It ain't like the petcocks in old muscle cars that you twist until it's wide open! Thanks again.
Petcock issue resolved! I slept the frustration off last night, and went back out today and had it out in just a minute or two. I spun it to the most loose position, and tugged on it with pliers while prying with a small flat screwdriver. It wasn't even broken, it had just spun in the seat it sets in. I cleaned it and put it back in the correct position, and added a little distilled water to test. It worked fine and didn't leak, now that I know how it works. I didn't even need to buy a new one. Thanks for the help.
Water pump change went flawlessly thanks to this thread. No leaks and no air lock. Temp came up in the same time it always takes, and never got any warmer than it ever does. Burping it at the heater hose on the head works! I poured the last bit of coolant in slowly, and it was quiet enough in the garage to actually hear the air burping out of the nipple. If your mind went there.....yes, (.)(.) are our friends! lol Thanks to the OP for the write up. Everyone else learn from my F up on the plastic drain petcock in the radiator, and only turn it till it starts dripping. It ain't like the petcocks in old muscle cars that you twist until it's wide open! Thanks again.
I am on my forth water pump and now always carry a spare in the truck.
Unlike some of you, I do all the work from the top. Remove the air filter housing and after taking the tension off the belt, remove it from the alternator. Drain a couple of gallons of coolant out into a clean container, remove the two bolts (10 mm 1/4" drive socket and short extension) holding the water pump in place. Install the new pump. Put a dab of sealant in the seal groove to hold the seal in place while your fiddle with getting the bolts lined up. Reinstall the belt. This is the only time that you need to go under the truck, to verify that the belt is in it's right place on the crank pulley and the A/C pulley.
Top up the coolant. Remove the front plug on the cylinder head and let all the air out. Take it for a drive and recheck the coolant level. Caution: do NOT open the rad cap or remove the front plug on the head on a hot engine.
Admittedly the above is kind of brief, but it covers the main points.
BTW, I have also changed the serpentine belt a couple of times and never had to remove the fan shroud or anything else. it's a bit tight going over the tensioner, but it does go.
I'm replacing WP as a maintenance/preventative measure - it hasn't failed with 125k miles.
Can't get the water pump to release from the engine block after removing the two bolts. Any ideas for getting it off? Is there a special WP removal tool I can buy?
As usual, the YT videos always make it look easier than it really is (for me at least) - the pump always pops right off! Also, on my 2005, the upper radiator hose must be removed to access the WP - in the videos I've seen the hose is apparently routed differently!
Also, question: I'm replacing the thermostat and radiator hoses as well - the stock t-stat is 190f - the new replacement is a Motorad brand sold as a 190f but is in fact marked as 192f. Does 2 degrees matter? And should I consider replacing with a 180f t-stat? Thx, appreciate any response!
Use a bigger hammer. My guess is that the pump was installed using some kind of gasket maker. Use a piece of wood, place it on the pump and hit it with a hammer to break it free.
Use a bigger hammer. My guess is that the pump was installed using some kind of gasket maker. Use a piece of wood, place it on the pump and hit it with a hammer to break it free.
Gracias amigo! Got it!! Used a 3' galv pipe - whacked it once with my hammer on the end and it popped right off!!
Still wondering about the T-stat though - 192F OK? Or insist on 190F? Or go with 180F?
I did my water pump today and thanks to you guys every thing went well, very well. Thanks to all of you. Oh i have a 104685 miles on my 03 1 ton. Thanks again.
Gracias amigo! Got it!! Used a 3' galv pipe - whacked it once with my hammer on the end and it popped right off!!
Still wondering about the T-stat though - 192F OK? Or insist on 190F? Or go with 180F?
192 degree F is fine you and the engine and the computer will never know the difference. A trick if you are doing the water pump and thermostat replacement together I have used for years is after the old thermostat is out and before installing the new thermostat I pour new antifreeze into the opening for the thermostat until the engine is almost complete filled just leaving enough room that I don't get a gusher of antifreeze out the opening and then I wait for a half hour or so for any air bubbles and then top off just before I install the new thermostat. Once the new thermostat is installed and the hose reconnected I then fill the radiator up. Then I wait again for a half hour to make sure that I don't get anymore air bubbles then start and run the engine. After the warm up I then top off the the over flow tank.
I also just replaced the water pump on my 2500 at 127,000 miles.
So it's been a while since I've been around and I just had to refer back to my own thread since it's time to do the water pump again. Because I believe you can teach an old dog new tricks I did as a few others had this time removed the air box. I still took the two bolts loose on the top side of the fan shroud for a little extra space. With the help of a new tool to release the belt tensioner I was able to stay off the ground except when I opened and closed the petcock on the radiator. There were two changes related to the water pump. The weep hole had been redesigned and the O-ring is now square vs round. The part number for the pump has changed.
I last changed this pump in early 2012 with around 137, 000 miles on the clock. The truck currently has 248,xxx and is still doing it's job.
The R&R went as expected although it was much easier with the air box out. Pictures below. New part number. New O-ring is square now vs round. The weep hole has been relocated.
I always replaced the t-stat along with the water pump. I did mine at the 125k on the truck with OEM from Cummins. One little nifty trick I learned working diesel trucks back in the 1970’s was after the new water pump is installed is to close the radiator drain **** and before installing the t-stat is fill the opening under the the thermostat with your antifreeze. Wait a hour or so and then fill it right to underneath where the new thermostat goes. Then install the thermostat and button up everything and then fill the radiator. Most times it eliminates the air bubbles in the engine.
11-12-2017, 11:23 AM
I slept the frustration off last night, and went back out today and had it out in just a minute or two. I spun it to the most loose position, and tugged on it with pliers while prying with a small flat screwdriver. It wasn't even broken, it had just spun in the seat it sets in. I cleaned it and put it back in the correct position, and added a little distilled water to test. It worked fine and didn't leak, now that I know how it works. I didn't even need to buy a new one. Thanks for the help.
Thanks again.
water pump
