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-   -   vibration and locked wheel (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/3rd-gen-engine-drivetrain-2003-2007-102/vibration-locked-wheel-289621/)

dieselnut932 05-08-2011 11:02 AM

vibration and locked wheel
 
Last weekend I noticed a vibration. I couldn't tell where it was coming from and it seemed to happen at different speeds and RPM's. I lifted the rear tires off the ground and I couldn't spin the driver's side rear at all. The passenger spun freely. I took the tires off worked the emergency brake and it seems to be better but still have the vibration. Any thoughts?

BigIron70 05-08-2011 11:09 AM

Check your rear U-joint I had one sieze up on me caused a very bad vibration and rear wheel locking.

papaduck 05-08-2011 04:35 PM

You should also check the brake caliper to make sure it is releaseing the rotor. Compare the tempature of the wheel hubs after driveing a mile or two. They should not be hot and should be the same temp.

dieselnut932 05-13-2011 04:21 PM

Thanks for the help guys. Looks like it is the caliper, the wheel was locked up, as soon as I pulled the caliper and brakes off it spun freely. Also the breaks were shot. Looked like they got really hot...they were just falling apart. I guess I will be putting on new rear pads and changing a caliper, unless the caliper can be repaired?

papaduck 05-13-2011 06:16 PM

Replace the caliper.

You need to determine why the caliper stuck. It could be the rubber line not letting the pressure return to the master cylinder.

.boB 05-13-2011 10:47 PM


Originally Posted by dieselnut932 (Post 2967728)
Thanks for the help guys. Looks like it is the caliper, the wheel was locked up, as soon as I pulled the caliper and brakes off it spun freely. Also the breaks were shot. Looked like they got really hot...they were just falling apart. I guess I will be putting on new rear pads and changing a caliper, unless the caliper can be repaired?

Routinly, the caliper can be rebuilt. It's not that difficult; it has very few moving parts. But if it's been overheated, then the bore is often not perfectly round any more. Then you should just swap it out with a factory rebuilt one from Autozone (or wherever).

If the rotor has the least bit of bluing, it's toast. Replace it.

dieselnut932 05-19-2011 05:08 PM

I changed the caliper and brakes. Do I have to fill the resevoir with fluid, or can I just pump the brake pedal to fill it up?

Lary Ellis (Top) 05-19-2011 05:12 PM

You have to bleed all the air out of the system by bleeding the brakes.

papaduck 05-19-2011 07:35 PM

You need to completly fill the master cylinder. Get some one to help.

Start on the wheel that is closest to the master cylinder.

Open the bleeder valve and place a container to catch the fluid as it is pumped out. Have the other person push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Close the bleeder valve, then the other person can release the brake pedal.

Repeat the above procedure 3 or 4 times. Refill the master cylinder. Do not let the master cylinder run out of fluid or you will pump air into the lines and cause problems. Repeat the process until the fluid comes out without any bubbles or air.

Then go to the other wheel on that axle and repeat the process.

I like to pump enough fluid out to get fresh fluid into the system at all 4 wheels. This can take 2 or 3 cans of fluid. Do not use any fluid that has been open for any length of time as it will absorb mosture.

dieselnut932 05-22-2011 08:27 AM

thanks papaduck, got everything bled out, and all is well.


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