Looking at upgrading to a 4x4 3/4 or 1 ton truck.

I would like to lower the bed height.

Can I take out the spacers between the axle and the rear spring?,

Would that void a new truck warenty ?

Reason to lower the bed:, Truck Camper jacks at max...

 

hoiw close are you? might be worth letting air out of the tires if your really close. maybe a few cinderblocks under the jack stands? i dont think you would want to remove the block. it wouldnt hurt anything but your rear end will look really low when it has weight in the bed. otherwise you could do it but might need new ubolts.
id try the other way first though... goos luck

 

Cinder blocks are one of the worsed things you could use, all it takes is a small inpact and those things can shatter. Sandwiched 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 make a much safer block!!!

 

Ramtough, That is one way to level the truck also....many have done it so do a search on removing rear blocks.....most people just move them from the bottom to the top so they can use the same u bolts. ks

 

remove the blocks, install airbags. when it is time to load the camper, dump the air and down she goes, when the camper is on, fill em back up and presto! back to normal.

 

or the easiest, cheapest method may be:

EXTEND THE JACKS A FEW INCHES

 

Thanks all, That was my plan ,remove the 4x4 lever blocks
and air bags to level truck.

I have used blocks under the jacks, but sometimes,
with the 4 jack system and some uneven ground the
camper starts to walk of the blocks
( probably need some way to secure blocks to the camper
jacks)

Just don't like to get them campers to high.......

 

I have airbags and I removed the thick bottom overloads. Haven't towed yet cuz I'm still building a hauler bed. It sure feels better unloaded! Craig

 

the blocks are pretty easy to relocate to the top of the spring pack [this will allow you to reuse the stock u-bolts] now i would recomend getting new bolts to hold the spring pack together as the round head bolts are royal pita [and a standard 3/4" hex head from a 1/2" bolt fits in the axle pocket]

 

I relocated the blocks on my '04. The truck sat rear end high stock. With the blocks moved, it's just about level empty. Moving the blocks drops the rear axle 1 1/4". Drop at rear of box on a short bed is 1.80".

I added Firestone air bags for use when loaded. I tow a couple of different tongue heavy trailers & it does squat a bit when hooked up. I just measure to the bottom of the hitch plate when empty, hook up, then add air to bring it back to the original measurement.

Here is a link to a great website with a picture by picture article on how to relocate the spacer blocks.

http://www.klenger.net/dodge/lowerin...d/slide01.html

 

Will removing the blocks void the warrenty ???

 

The Magnuson-Moss act is decribed here.

http://www.pacchips.com/htm/warranty.htm

I suggest you educate yourself on your rights guaranteed by law. There very few situations that would cause a total vehicle warranty to be voided.

What failure could be caused by removing the blocks? The dealer would have to prove the removal caused the failure. I had my '04 in for warranty work twice before I ran it up on miles. Radio and cruise control. Both were taken care of with no question about removing the blocks or why my truck sits level. Lots of questions from everyone from techs to the GM about my red wheels.

 

DON'T DO THIS^^^^

At least not if you are going to tow.....


That overload does more than just "overload" function.

It also distributes the load across the rest of the spring pack.


Without the overload, you leaves will eventually turn into a "W" shape, then fail. They aren't designed to have all the weight focused in the middle; the overloads distribute it.


Ask yourself why the KORE suspension kits include a mini-pack instead of just eliminating the overload???

 

I extended the jack legs on my Bigfoot by 7". Problem solved.

 

Didn't think a 4x4 could ever be too high, maybe you should look into buying a GM instead!