3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Tone Ring Mod

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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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Tone Ring Mod

I just kind of did the tone ring mod...Whoever said it was easy must have some skills and small hands. I loosened up the bolts and just turned the ring. I didnt take it off and file the dowl pin. It did seem like it moved a quite a bit. I think it made a little difference in acceleration but havent driven it much. I didnt see any difference in starting the truck. What kind of mileage increases has anyone seen and any other differences? I plan on getting the Superchips Flashpaq. I hope it works well with it. Should I have taken it off and advanced it more? Also what is the cheese something or other mod? Thanks....I love CTD!!!
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 05:21 PM
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First off, if you just moved it without filing the hole out, and you can feel a difference, then it was definitely worth the hassle. You may see a small mileage increase with what you did but I wouldn't expect too much without filing the hole out. When I did the mod on my 03 it made a big difference in bottom end power and my mileage went up 1 mpg.
The Swiss cheese airbox mod requires you to pull your air filter out and drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of the airbox. That's it. Getting a better flowing air filter like an AFE Proguard7 drop in will help too....
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 06:19 PM
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I might go ahead and take it al the way off. I know I am supposed to file the hole counter clockwise but how much?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by robertc82
I might go ahead and take it al the way off. I know I am supposed to file the hole counter clockwise but how much?

To save you the effort of digging through this thread,
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=71543&page=9





Originally Posted by SoCal-305
I did the tone wheel mod this morning and it was pretty easy and straightforward like Mathew stated. There are 60 teeth on the tone wheel but there is an area that is missing a tooth or two to give a reference point for the ECM. In other words don't just count the teeth and do your math based on that.

Here are my measurements for people who are interested:

-there is up to 1.0mm of rotational play in the stock tone wheel mounting configuration that could amount up to 0.5 degrees of timing difference going from truck to truck. I'm surprised the tone wheel has so much play considering its importance to the operation of the engine. This is maybe why some people who install the Rokktech sensor experience some knocking as they have a more advanced stock tone wheel mounting?

Radius of tone wheel = 105mm
Diameter of tone wheel = 210mm
Circumference of tone wheel = 660mm (using the formula 2x"pie"xR)

2degrees = about 3.7mm of circumference movement, I shot for 3.5mm so I wouldn't overdo it.
Each tone wheel tooth looks to be just over 4.0mm in width, possibly around 4.25mm. Mathew, maybe you're just over 2 degrees of advance by a 1/3rd of a degree if you used the tone wheel tooth as a reference point?

The dowel pin slot is 22.5mm from the center and I calculated I would need to remove 0.75mm from the counterclockwise side to get the adjustability I wanted.

I started the truck when I was done and there is a bit more rattle to it, more like how a standard older diesel engine would sound. I will test it after I'm done with this post.

MikeyB, I notice your post in where Rocktech said they remove 0.080" from the thickest part of the sensor to get the adjustability they want. Does that mean the sensor tip actually moves 0.080" over the tone wheel or does the sensor rotate and the tip moves more than that? The reason why I ask that is 0.080" of movement over the tone wheel would only account for an advance of a little over 1.0 degree. Thanks!
Originally Posted by Superduty
Something doesn't add up here. Rocktech is claiming 2 degrees with 80 thou removed from the sensor. From what I can tell, removing 80 thou from the sensor is going to advance the sensor face 80 thou. 80 thou = 2mm. I'm assuming the sensor still sits flat in its holder and isn't pointing in a different direction.

The dia of the tone wheel is 210 mm, so the radius is 105mm. The advance in degrees is thus

sin(adv) = o/h = 2mm/105 mm adv = asin(2mm/105mm) = 1.09 degrees

To get 2 degrees of advance, we would need:

sin(adv) = o/h o = sin(2degrees) x 105mm = 3.66mm or 144 thou.

Now, people slotting the tone wheel dowel:

sin(adv) = o/h o = sin(2 degrees) x 22.5mm = 0.785mm = 31 thou.

The easiest way to do this exactly might be to measure the dowel pin hole and then carefully drill it 62 thou oversize. 31 thou is not much material. Judging by the comments the tone wheel people are making (more rattle) compared to the sensor mod people, I'd guess that they are advancing the timing more.

I find it interesting that there is play in the dowel hole. If I had a truck that was getting poor fuel economy, I'd advance my tone ring as much as I could.

One mroe thing: there are 60 teeth on the tone ring. That means that each *tooth and space* is 6 degrees and if the tooth and space distances are equal, each tooth is 3 degrees wide, as is each space. Thus to change the timing 2 degrees, the sensor would have to move 2/3rds of a tooth.

I think the Rockteck sensor is actually advancing the timing by 1 degree.

I think I'm going to adjust my tone ring for fully advanced timing with the stock dowel pin hole and then mod my sensor to advance the timing by 1 degree. I don't want a rattly engine.

Can someone give me good, conclusive MPG or EGT numbers ?

I suppose that is a long way of saying file about 1/16" for a one tooth forward rotation.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 04:11 AM
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File it until there's no more to file....
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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How do you relieve tension off of the belt...i know there is a self tensioner but cant figure out how to defeat it?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lawnmaniac883
How do you relieve tension off of the belt...i know there is a self tensioner but cant figure out how to defeat it?
Look at the tensioner again, towards the bottom there is a square hole that will accept a 1/2" ratchet. Reach is from underneath IIRC.
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