We're having problems getting it to close. Is there a fix or some sort of retro-fit?

Thanks in advance,
Nick

 

I can't remember if your 3rd gen truck has the same style drain as the 2nd gen trucks, but I've removed many of them on the older trucks and replaced the o-ring. It's just a matter of going to full open, and gently twisting back and forth while pulling with a pair of needle nose pliers until you find the right spot and it just comes out. Re-installing it is just as easy. I think your o-ring has probably become partly dislodged.

 

The following is something that I had copied from this site.
I stupidly didnt get the authors name but I am sure it was for an 03/04 or I wouldnt have copied it.
Radiator Drain Plug:
""I turned the drain plug 1/4 turn counter clock wise, and coolant comes out the pipe in the bottom and from around what I would call the valve body.
I couldn't get the valve to reseat or shut off. With the radiator now completely drained, I can't get the valve to do much of anything but spin round and round
Try pushing in on the valve when you turn it. Thats the way mine is. Pull out and turn counterclock wise. Push in and turn clockwise
push HARD. when i did mine, i couldnt get it work either, posted here, WAP said to push really hard in and turn clockwise. it worked. kinda a bugger to put back in.
next time, i'll just pull the lower hose.
You have to push HARD and then twist. Try squirting a little oil or WD-40 in there, sometimes the plastic really sticks and a little lube helps.

Perhaps its better to drain it from the lower radiator hose!!""

Dont know if this helps or not!!

 

Read this link and see if it is the same problem you're having: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n+plug+problem

 

Got to the dealer and get a new plastic valve and O-ring. They are about $20. You will see right away how it works with a new one in hand.

 

Dang it....The link I am looking for actually had pictures. NickBeek might be on the right track also.

 

Thanks guys. I finally got the drain to close again, then pulled the lower hose for the rest of the flushing process.

Nick

 

Had the same problem when I changed fluids earlier in the year. It seemed to like being pushed HARD

 

Just went through the same pain with my '05 with 153K. Thanks to this thread I was able get it back together. I got it loose by using fingers on the tight winged plug & found it impossible to get back in. Pulled out the winged petcock stem using vise grips & pulling like crazy just thinking how cool it will be to buy a new radiator when the plastic tank breaks. It didn't break, and I was then able pull out the plastic nut type piece the petcock stem screws into without much problem using needle nose pliers. I then screwed the stem into the nut & then put them in the tank together - gave a quarter turn to hold in the threaded nut piece & it them would screw in & tighten easily. Couldn't get it start before that. Seems fine - no leaks.

Thanks guys. PS 2nd time it has been changed since I had the dealer do it at 68K when it was in for trans change. Coolant still looked like new with no corrosion or buildup in the radiator. Used Mopar coolant that has been it.

 

Thanks for the post. I still havent gotten around to doing mine but still think I will pull the lower hose when I do.

 

Don't feel bad guys I have seen techs have trouble with that bad boy their first time around.

 

Well....

Got to changing the coolant today. Yup, had all sorts of problems with the drain plug. First little taste was where it didn't want to screw back in after I unscrewed it too far. I managed to resolve that issue with a bit of work, crossing my fingers and toes in just the right way...

Here I thought I was a smart feller by not unscrewing it too far. That worked for a little bit until my luck ran out. It was simply hard to screw in or out with that creaking plastic sound then eventually all it would do is flop about doing the 1/4 turn bit neither in nor out nor pushing nor pulling making a lick of difference.

I came on here and read the threads about replacing radiators as a result of that darn drain plug...
Figured I had nothing to loose, wedged a screw driver between the plug and the rad tank and gave with a pry... If at first you don't succeed pry, pry, again...

Out popped the plug on the second go with next to no effort and nothing sounding like it broke.

Sadly I didn't take a picture of what it looked like immediatly after I pulled it out. It would have made explaining what happened a bit easier.

Assembled valve


"exploded view"


Radiator


looking at the exploded view and the numbers...
"1" snaps into place in the radiator (line up arrows) "3" threads into "1" and looks like the shoulder helps spread the tabs on "3". "2" is simply the rubber gasket

Over time, the screw threads become stiff as your twisting on "3", "1" ends up rotating in the radiator. This is the lumpy 1/4 turn everyone feels once in a while. Notice in the radiator how the hole is rectangular in shape? If "3" happens to rotate 90* then you may not have sufficient meat on the tabs (arrow pointing to) to hold the plug in place under pressure.


On mine, as I was givin'er twisting away, "1" was partly twisted in the radiator compressing the tabs together around the shaft on "3" when the shoulder on "3" came in contact with the tabs, holding them together.

Luck of the draw in prying it out. I disassembled everything, cleaned it up, lightly oiled with wd40 and checked that things threaded together smoothly.
I then snapped the tab in (ligning up the arrows) things seemed to be snug so I threaded in the plug. This went quite easy this time around. Torqued it down, refilled with coolant, checked for leaks and called it done for another 100,000 miles...


edited to add:
I had installed a small rubber hose to keep the water drips off me as I worked on this bung problem. It has since been removed...

 

Dorman makes a replacement drain-****, and the later trucks have a different drain-**** that dorman also makes a replacement for. Just FYI for anybody searching in the future.

 

I would caution against the use of petroleum based grease, spray lubricants or water dispersants on the petcock o-ring. Petroleum based products will cause o-rings to swell up and or fail in the future.

I do; however, recommend the use of waterproof /silicone grease; ie plumbers grease to facilitate petcock installation and future removal. Just simply smear a small amount on the o-ring and threads to make thread engagement easier. Silicone grease can be found at your local orange or blue big box store, hardware store or a plumbing supply house. It is also known as faucet grease.

The part number for the NAPA Radiator Petcock is(BK 6051278). This fits the 2003 and 2004 model years;however, may not fit the 2004.5 and newer models.

 

Thanks for passing the info on and the pictures!!