DodgeDiesel61

Interesting....very interesting. Thank you chuckydee.

chuckydee

I'm no mechanic but I've turned a few wrenches, so if I can do this job anyone thats done service like u joints or wheel bearings can do this one. Just please get an engine hoist.

Dynocon

I have another rust spot so better to do now than with snow on the ground.

I am also going to remove the flex coupling on the bottom of the air horn.

I see 4 nuts that hold the fan shroud, plastic / rubber up against the back of the radiator. Does this wiggle out between the fan and radiator?

Dynocon

It is done with the help of my 8 and 11 year old.

Prepared you can do in 4 - 5 hours, it took 7 so I will give you steps that finally worked..

Remove hose from filter box, unclip wire from holder, no need to disconnect ele connection.
Remove coupling from air horn, I have an after market so I had to take mine off or it hit the brake fluid res.
Remove the black cover on top of the engine, 4 bolts easy, give you a couple more inches.
No need to remove the fan schroud, it is like a flap on the bottom.
Loosen the 2 engine mount bolts, 18MM, while you are nice and relaxed and have the time try and smack pass side back 1/4" or so, it will hang up do to lifting the engine at an angle.
Drain the oil, remove pan bolts, keep 2 in just to hold it.
Jack the truck up from the frame, behind the front tires and block, again this will save an hour, my pan would not clear without the axle, the tires were still on the ground but lite.
Now that the suspension is down, hook the engine puller to the front bracket, jack it up. there is a small wire, runs down the pass side frame, inside, goes to the engine, right below the oil filter, mine was getting very tight, could not get the little push button to pull out of the frame hole so I cut it.
Jack up until the hose on the back of the engine is within an inch or so of the firewall.
You can now wiggle the pan out without removing the sip tube.

After you get the gasket off, seemed like a good 1/2 hour of scraping with a razor scraper and putty knife, new gasket, pan bolted up.

Let the engine down a inch or two, go to the front bottom of the radiator with you finger and pull the schroud flap to the back, it will try to go in towards the radiator. Once it clears it will slide down.

Let it down a little more, everything looks good except the back side of the passenger engine mount. I think that since it is lifting at an angle it flexs the rubber. Another 1/2 hour. I put some pressure on it with a screw driver and turned tring to get a little slack but it do not give easy. Finally with my 11 year old on the jack I was able to gide it with a screw driver and pry bar to get the washer on the back side of the mount started, still not in but with it started I was able to hit it from the front and it droped in.

Tighten everything back up, new filter and oil.

Everything seems fine. Worth the 1K saving, could have saved a few hours if I would have done it this way from the start. I did not remove the air horn and it hit the brake fluid res, still needed to go up. I did not remove the valve cover, hit the fire wall still neede to go up. Against the firewall can not go any more, pan hitting axle, relax suspension.

Again hind sight, with the suspension relaxed you may not need to remove the valve cover or air horn, don't know.

Hope this helps.

Dynocon

It is done with the help of my 8 and 11 year old.

Prepared you can do in 4 - 5 hours, it took 7 so I will give you steps that finally worked..

Remove hose from filter box, unclip wire from holder, no need to disconnect ele connection.
Remove coupling from air horn, I have an after market so I had to take mine off or it hit the brake fluid res.
Remove the black cover on top of the engine, 4 bolts easy, give you a couple more inches.
No need to remove the fan schroud, it is like a flap on the bottom.
Loosen the 2 engine mount bolts, 18MM, while you are nice and relaxed and have the time try and smack pass side back 1/4" or so, it will hang up do to lifting the engine at an angle.
Drain the oil, remove pan bolts, keep 2 in just to hold it.
Jack the truck up from the frame, behind the front tires and block, again this will save an hour, my pan would not clear without the axle, the tires were still on the ground but lite.
Now that the suspension is down, hook the engine puller to the front bracket, jack it up. there is a small wire, runs down the pass side frame, inside, goes to the engine, right below the oil filter, mine was getting very tight, could not get the little push button to pull out of the frame hole so I cut it.
Jack up until the hose on the back of the engine is within an inch or so of the firewall.
You can now wiggle the pan out without removing the sip tube.

After you get the gasket off, seemed like a good 1/2 hour of scraping with a razor scraper and putty knife, new gasket, pan bolted up.

Let the engine down a inch or two, go to the front bottom of the radiator with you finger and pull the schroud flap to the back, it will try to go in towards the radiator. Once it clears it will slide down.

Let it down a little more, everything looks good except the back side of the passenger engine mount. I think that since it is lifting at an angle it flexs the rubber. Another 1/2 hour. I put some pressure on it with a screw driver and turned tring to get a little slack but it do not give easy. Finally with my 11 year old on the jack I was able to gide it with a screw driver and pry bar to get the washer on the back side of the mount started, still not in but with it started I was able to hit it from the front and it droped in.

Tighten everything back up, new filter and oil.

Everything seems fine. Worth the 1K saving, could have saved a few hours if I would have done it this way from the start. I did not remove the air horn and it hit the brake fluid res, still needed to go up. I did not remove the valve cover, hit the fire wall still neede to go up. Against the firewall can not go any more, pan hitting axle, relax suspension.

Again hind sight, with the suspension relaxed you may not need to remove the valve cover or air horn, don't know.

Hope this helps.

chuckydee

That same mount gave me trouble too. The nut was rusted pretty good so I only got it off just enough to lift the motor. I think it would have gone better for me if the nut was backed right off. Glad you got the hoist.

Dynocon

After reading your post I sprayed the bolts down with penetrating oil, they were not really rusty. They loosened easy, I backed the nuts off until they were even with the bolts, but I could not get the bolt to slide thru the mount. The bolt turned easy but would not slide thru the mount, I twisted it with a pry bar and screw driver wedged behind it and kept hitting it with the hammer and finally got it to move 1/4" or so. Enough that when I set the engine back down the washer was at least on the correct side of the mount, them a smack or two and it dropped in. With such limited room that was a tough 1/4".