Oil Pan Removal ?
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toronto, ontario
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just got my parts today for this job... its nice to hear from someone that has done the job by lifting the engine. Now if someone chimes in and says its ok to lift it with a jack under the front of the crank I'll be resdy to start..or maybe i should look for a engine hoist. IDK
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would not jack up the engine by the crank if it were my truck. There is a corner of the block exposed in the front, if I had no other option, I would use it to jack. Another option would be to rent an a-frame and come a long hoist and lift the engine by it's designated lift points. In the past I have used two trees with a piece of heavy pipe between them to anchor a hoist to lift an engine and trans out of and back into a car. Just some thoughts....
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toronto, ontario
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would not jack up the engine by the crank if it were my truck. There is a corner of the block exposed in the front, if I had no other option, I would use it to jack. Another option would be to rent an a-frame and come a long hoist and lift the engine by it's designated lift points. In the past I have used two trees with a piece of heavy pipe between them to anchor a hoist to lift an engine and trans out of and back into a car. Just some thoughts....
I just noticed your truck is a six speed. Mines an auto I hope this will work for me.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yuba city Kalifornia
Posts: 3,899
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
2 Posts
most rental yard will rent a engine hoist for very little money using a jack on the crank pully is asking for trouble if it slips off. I know to many people who are missing body parts from not being safe
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Getting closer to attempting this. The All data mentiions silicone, where is this? Is this where the pad butts up at the rear of the engine?
Fill T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan with Silicone rubber Adhesive Sealant. ???
Fill T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan with Silicone rubber Adhesive Sealant. ???
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 728
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can't speak to the auto, I haven't watched it done on one of them.
Take pictures and do a write up, the community will be better for it.
#23
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would also like to know how to safely JACK up the engine from bottom side. Everyone is talking about procedure for lifting it from top side.
Does anyone have any detailed steps for doing this job by lifting engine from the bottom side?
Thank you.
Does anyone have any detailed steps for doing this job by lifting engine from the bottom side?
Thank you.
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toronto, ontario
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I did it, on my back in the driveway with no hoist. Six hours later because of one engine mount bolt the was rusted. Don't use the truck jack under the crank like I did, its not safe. Lifted the motor up until the heater hose at the back was tight on the top of the fire wall, then the pan slide out with out removing the pick up tube. The only thing I disconnected was the fan shroud and removed the air box,(to get at the shroud bolt).
Updated this thread in case anyone was following it.
Updated this thread in case anyone was following it.
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toronto, ontario
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No pics really nothing to show, its a very straight forward job. I would not do it again with out an over head engine hoist, just too scary with the jack on the crank and working under the pan. I had a little trouble lining up the passenger side engine mount bolt with the slot when lowering the engine, just because the nut was not loosened due to the rust. After a couple hits with a hammer it dropped into the lower mount. I put a little silicone on the four corners where the block meets up with the front cover and rear section. You can see the areas clearly once the pan is off. They seamed flush so I don't think it was necessary. Just checked and no leaks, ran the truck for 100km today. Didn't have to remove the pick up tube but you have to lift the engine as high as it will go to clear it. Was it worth saving $1000 bucks? I think so.
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toronto, ontario
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put the gasket on dry, only a couple dabs to hold it in place. Two bolts to loosen then the engine goes up until the heater hose hits the top of the fire wall. At first it looked too tight but a couple more cranks on the jack and the pan slide out. I was expecting some leaks from the various hoses being twisted and stretched but so far its all good.
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put the gasket on dry, only a couple dabs to hold it in place. Two bolts to loosen then the engine goes up until the heater hose hits the top of the fire wall. At first it looked too tight but a couple more cranks on the jack and the pan slide out. I was expecting some leaks from the various hoses being twisted and stretched but so far its all good.
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Toronto, ontario
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts