oil change intervals/warranty
I didn't realize that the Dodge truck came with this option. Where would I look to find if I have a monitor in my truck?
It would be interesting to see when it calls for oil change compared to when I think I need one.
It would be interesting to see when it calls for oil change compared to when I think I need one.
My 06 model doesn't have it... I believe all the 6.7L equipped truck do... but not sure.
Personally, I just change my oil and filter every 5k miles on my truck. I feel like for the time it takes for me to put 5K on it, plus the fact that most the time that I DO drive it, its loaded to to gills and usually in extremely hot weather, 5K miles is good service life for dino drippings.
There are those that run synthetics, bypass filter setups, etc... for my application and use, thats not cost efficient.
My new F-550 and my wifes' Mazda will be strictly serviced by the OLM.
Personally, I just change my oil and filter every 5k miles on my truck. I feel like for the time it takes for me to put 5K on it, plus the fact that most the time that I DO drive it, its loaded to to gills and usually in extremely hot weather, 5K miles is good service life for dino drippings.
There are those that run synthetics, bypass filter setups, etc... for my application and use, thats not cost efficient.
My new F-550 and my wifes' Mazda will be strictly serviced by the OLM.
Not sure what computer program is used that started with the 6.7L engines to tell you to change the oil but the oil change indicator in the 2008 Dodge Nitro goes off every 6K no matter what oil you use.
In my truck I use Amsoil and there 15 micron Amsoil oil filter and change it once a year. I also do oil test when I change it and every test came back saying the oil I dumped even after 10K and 368 days of usage was still good for further usage. In fact the lowest TBN I have had on the oil I dumped was 9.15. The only reason I change it once a year is to try and keep Dodge happy if I ever have an oil related warranty problem.
In my truck I use Amsoil and there 15 micron Amsoil oil filter and change it once a year. I also do oil test when I change it and every test came back saying the oil I dumped even after 10K and 368 days of usage was still good for further usage. In fact the lowest TBN I have had on the oil I dumped was 9.15. The only reason I change it once a year is to try and keep Dodge happy if I ever have an oil related warranty problem.
That's what I was planning. Using Amsoil 5w30 HDD and the oil filter. I'd like to put bypass on too but not right away. Probably do a UOA in six months and check it the first time. Then get into a regular program.
Couple questions for you:
1. Are using a bypass? How was your soot content in the analysis?
2. How was your iron content? I read somewhere that a couple people saw higher amounts of iron in their results than they did with past results using dino oil.
Thanks
Couple questions for you:
1. Are using a bypass? How was your soot content in the analysis?
2. How was your iron content? I read somewhere that a couple people saw higher amounts of iron in their results than they did with past results using dino oil.
Thanks
OLM system on my 07 Chevy company 6.0 litre gasser goes off faithfully at the 8500-9000KM(5300-5500mile)mark always,it has done this since the first change and 2 1/2 years later---181,000Km(113,000miles)it still does it even with the long idle times as it will run 10-12 hour a day in -25C temps .I drop the oil(synthetic) every 10,000KM(6250)miles for easy memory and disreguard the OLM.Last time at the dealer the motor had 4700+hours on it.PS---- on my 2001 i drop the oil every 10,000KM as it is almost all highway miles+bypass and it a garage queen 58,000KM-(36,000miles) to date
.My 2007 5.9 gets changed every 8000KM(5000miles)+bypass as its my daily driver and does more city driving.DW
.My 2007 5.9 gets changed every 8000KM(5000miles)+bypass as its my daily driver and does more city driving.DW
That's what I was planning. Using Amsoil 5w30 HDD and the oil filter. I'd like to put bypass on too but not right away. Probably do a UOA in six months and check it the first time. Then get into a regular program.
Couple questions for you:
1. Are using a bypass? How was your soot content in the analysis?
2. How was your iron content? I read somewhere that a couple people saw higher amounts of iron in their results than they did with past results using dino oil.
Thanks
Couple questions for you:
1. Are using a bypass? How was your soot content in the analysis?
2. How was your iron content? I read somewhere that a couple people saw higher amounts of iron in their results than they did with past results using dino oil.
Thanks
That's what I was planning. Using Amsoil 5w30 HDD and the oil filter. I'd like to put bypass on too but not right away. Probably do a UOA in six months and check it the first time. Then get into a regular program.
Couple questions for you:
1. Are using a bypass? How was your soot content in the analysis?
2. How was your iron content? I read somewhere that a couple people saw higher amounts of iron in their results than they did with past results using dino oil.
Thanks
Couple questions for you:
1. Are using a bypass? How was your soot content in the analysis?
2. How was your iron content? I read somewhere that a couple people saw higher amounts of iron in their results than they did with past results using dino oil.
Thanks
no bypass, just the eao80 and ame 15w-40 oil.
It's now at a year... I'm probably going to sample it beginning of the new year as there was nothing on the report that indicated I should do it sooner.
Oh yes, the first sampling with syn did have a bit higher iron, and higher silicon. I suspect the oil was picking up crap the old dino was leaving behind.
Last edited by Thundercraft; Nov 12, 2010 at 09:24 PM. Reason: additional info
I change my oil/filter at the recommended shcedule B timeframe, usually right around 7-7500 miles. I send in a sample at every oil change. Good records and if you have warranty problems, these records are excellent proof that you HAVE met their maintenance reqs to get warranty work.
I use the Valvoline Premium Blue, its a 15w40, I have had no problems with cold starting, and it does get really cold here in New Mexico at 7K ft elevation, seem below 0 temps here many times.
If I were in a colder winter climate, I would go to a synthetic like you are considering.
CD
I use the Valvoline Premium Blue, its a 15w40, I have had no problems with cold starting, and it does get really cold here in New Mexico at 7K ft elevation, seem below 0 temps here many times.
If I were in a colder winter climate, I would go to a synthetic like you are considering.
CD
Looks like I'm being **** about doing mine. 5000 miles on the money every time.
It costs me $40-45 each time. Wallyworld rotella oil and K&N filter.
I work in dusty conditions, short trips, pull a 28' trailer so I put on hard hours
The oil looks way blacker than it used to be on my 03 for some reason.
It costs me $40-45 each time. Wallyworld rotella oil and K&N filter.
I work in dusty conditions, short trips, pull a 28' trailer so I put on hard hours
The oil looks way blacker than it used to be on my 03 for some reason.
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
wheat,
The 04.5 and later trucks do blacken the oil. My 04 doesn't. Some have said it's the third injection event, I don't know.
I hope you're not talking about a K&N air filter in dusty conditions.
The 04.5 and later trucks do blacken the oil. My 04 doesn't. Some have said it's the third injection event, I don't know.
I hope you're not talking about a K&N air filter in dusty conditions.
Ah, your a local. Working not too far from ya right now. If you see a crane to your south, chances are i'm in the seat.
I run Amsoil 15w40 HD diesel and Marine motor oil in my truck, and I change it every 25k miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. I've never been denied warranty fixes because of my oil change interval.
I was thinking of using the 15w40 diesel and marine but it gets really cold here and was thinking the 5w30 HDD looked good.
I don't know. Lots of choices. My other concern now is fuel additives. Trying to find something here that works good at preventing gelling but doesnt cost a fortune
I don't know. Lots of choices. My other concern now is fuel additives. Trying to find something here that works good at preventing gelling but doesnt cost a fortune
I have an idea for you.. I use this:
Diesel Cold Flow Improver
It probably doesn't get as cold here as it does where you are, but it does get into the teens as far as temp. goes, and I have never had an issue with gelling.
Diesel Cold Flow Improver
It probably doesn't get as cold here as it does where you are, but it does get into the teens as far as temp. goes, and I have never had an issue with gelling.
Saw a post by a person who said K&N could not tell them what the micron rating was for there oil filters but thought they were between XX and XX, how can any one trust a manufacture who can not tell you what micron rating is for there oil filters. My self I would not trust one of them on my engine.
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