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-   -   Oil bypass filter, oil return through engine block machined hole? (https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/3rd-gen-engine-drivetrain-2003-2007-102/oil-bypass-filter-oil-return-through-engine-block-machined-hole-305300/)

tacohat 07-31-2012 02:04 PM

Oil bypass filter, oil return through engine block machined hole?
 
I am looking at installing an engine oil bypass filter onto my truck. I have looked at the various oil return locations as sold by AMSOIL and other brands, through the top of the valve cover, or oil fill cap.

I was looking at the engine block and noticed that on the passenger side, the turbo oil return line goes through the engine block casting where a hole has been machined, and found that the oil return line is simply held in place by two o-rings. On the same side of the engine, towards the front, more directly under the oil filter housing is an exact similar portal through the engine block, that seems to be blocked off by a freeze plug.

I want to know if anyone has used this location to run their oil return line. I looked on the internet and found that different configurations of our same Cummins block use either location to return oil to the oil pan. I don't have any info on the o-ring fitting that would be required to go into that hole.

There are 2 options, 1. buy the Cummins turbo oil return line and modify it to accept a hydraulic hose, 2. find a suitable part number for the o-ring fitting. Note: keithstef on Cumminsforum has machined one, but I don't know if he has dimensions of what he made.

The filter setup I was looking at are the following:
NAPA oil filter base FIL 4096 = about $85
FLEETGUARD oil filter base 3304173S
WIX oil bypass filter 51749, 5 micron, 1.75 gpm
FLEETGUARD oil bypass filter LF777, 5 micron, 2 gpm
1/8" NPT to 1/4" JIC fitting - oil filter housing
1/4" hydraulic hose - oil filter housing to bypass oil filter housing
1/4" JIC to 3/8" NPT fittings
1/4" hydraulic hose - return to block
hydraulic hose to engine block o-ring fitting modification

wiskeyVI 07-31-2012 06:00 PM

My return goes to the oil fill cap.

tacohat 07-31-2012 10:09 PM

I've seen the oil fill cap return lines. I'm trying to keep the truck stock looking without adding a line going back to the top of the engine.

I'd really like to have the oil return back through the hole in the engine block. I am pretty sure that the hole to the front of the current turbo drain location with the freeze plug is the same.

I went ahead and contacted the Dodge parts department and found that they do have a fitting available. I decided to go ahead and order it to see if it would work. Should have it in a few days and will report back.

rockcrawler304 08-01-2012 08:56 AM

Let us know how it works! If there is no pressure you should be fine.

tacohat 08-02-2012 11:09 PM

I received the part from Dodge today. The part numbers for my truck are as follows:

Drain Tube = Mopar P/N = 1-03931827, approximately 7/8" OD x 2-1/2" overall length, 1" goes into engine block, 1-1/2" sticks out for 3/4" ID rubber hose connection, has only one o-ring groove (possible Cummins P/N = 3931827)
O-Ring = Mopar P/N = 1-05011924AA (possible Cummins P/N = 3931824)

Note: These both came in Cummins Genuine Parts bags, but the Mopar tag was obscuring the Cummins part numbers.

Here is a link to a picture of the straight fitting: http://sourceautomotive.biz/straight...2007dodge.aspx

Here is a link to a picture of the straight fitting installed:
http://www.8-lug.com/tech/0703_8l_bd.../photo_10.html

Here is a link to a picture of an elbow fitting in the engine block hole that is near the oil filter: http://www.8-lug.com/tech/0703_8l_bd.../photo_11.html

So the oil line from the bypass filter housing to the engine block will need to be sized to 3/4". The oil line from the engine oil filter housing will need to be 1/8" NPT to 1/4" JIC with 3/8" hose.

I'll have to post back when I get everything bought and installed to see how it goes.

rockcrawler304 08-03-2012 03:04 PM

Good info. Looks like it should work just fine. Looks like the only hard part is to take a 1/4" line and connect to a 3/4" fitting.

jtamulonis 08-03-2012 04:27 PM


Originally Posted by rockcrawler304 (Post 3123432)
Good info. Looks like it should work just fine. Looks like the only hard part is to take a 1/4" line and connect to a 3/4" fitting.

just weld a 3/16" thick piece of steel to plug the open end of the fitting, drill and tap for 1/8" npt and screw in a 1/8" pipe male X 1/4" flare male fitting , and you`re done ! [director]

rockcrawler304 08-05-2012 08:52 PM


Originally Posted by jtamulonis (Post 3123448)
just weld a 3/16" thick piece of steel to plug the open end of the fitting, drill and tap for 1/8" npt and screw in a 1/8" pipe male X 1/4" flare male fitting , and you`re done ! [director]

That should work! And keep it a clean install too [guitar]

jmlcolorado 08-07-2013 01:53 PM

So did you complete this install? If so, how do you like it now that its been there for some time?
Have any photos of your bypass install with the new drain location?

carl48 08-07-2013 06:23 PM

we have made our own for the last 20 years now. you will need to make a restrictor, use a 0.030 drill bit, we usually do it in the center of the filter mount. I run more luberfiner 9750's than lf777's but here is pix of both. do not change the filter until it no longer flows oil. if I remember correctly the lf777 rating at this point is 2 micron. at oil change we just drain the filter and put it back on. some of our trucks we return the oil like you are going to, on those simply feel the filter after a run to see if it is still flowing.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/250.jpg
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