AH64ID

I am running the Amsoil EAA189, its a great filter and keeps the silicon quite low and I do a lot of dirt/dusty driving.

It doesn't have quite the CFM rating of stock thou, one of the reasons I have to clean it every 3-5K miles and for the HD CAI mod. My filterminder rarely moves now. Amsoil says they are working on a 4" pleat version as thats what stock went to, and now Amsoil flows a lot less.

Ace

Here's how I addressed the opening/closing issue:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_70.jpg

It's interesting to note the opening down there is in a high-pressure bow wave near the front of the vehicle at speed - a definite ram air effect. I ended up adding a latch to keep it all the way open after it kept getting pushed closed on it's own.

If I'm driving when it happens to start snowing or raining, just yank on the dash mounted cable handle.

05HDRAM

I have had a 4" hole in the bottom of the airbox for a couple years now, and never had any issues with water or snow (fyi, use a jigsaw, much faster and cleaner).I did not run such a long tube, just a elbow. I did use a hose clamp to hold some screen over the end to keep bigger junk out.

I was running an Amsoil EAA and very happy with it, but the seal started compressing too much for my liking. The air cleaner lid was going on way too easy, so I replaced it with the larger NAPA filter, can't remember the number off hand. I did not notice any performance change.

pwknapp

Shoot, I've been running Home Depot set up for 100k up here in Wyoming. Just a few extra bugs under the filter. I even put a 4" to 6" rubber flange on the lower end and mounted it directly behind the diving light vent in the bumper. (I have no driving lights) Snow, rain and tons of dust with zero issues and I have checked the filter during runs to be sure.

If PSM is going to put out a product and stand behind it concerning water, snow and ice getter in I'm good.

Shorts

I need to open up my airbox again and have a look at the filter. Right after I did this mod I noticed on the filter element what looked like water stains around the outer edge. I don't know if that was merely a coincidence or if water got up in there. I decided to leave the filter in there in order track the progression of this moisture line, if there was one. I have driven in a couple rain storms on the highway since

I'll pull it in the next few days and get a photo. It's about time for me to open it up.

I've been riding with a spare air filter in the truck in case it does get bad enough to need to change on the road. Hopefully it wouldn't deteriorate enough that it gets sucked in.

AH64ID

I know mine pulls a LOT more dust, I have had to clean my filter twice since I put this on.. Only about 3-4K miles.

Ace

I doubt there is much worry about water contamination to the filter, under normal circumstances. You have to remember this is a secondary flow path to an already good-flowing intake. The likelihood of water travelling vertically over two feet through that tube and getting to the filter is very low. Snow, not so much. That's all I'm concerned about, because we do get some serious snow around here every so often and the 3rd Gen is my inclement weather vehicle.

RamGazer

I know this thread is kinda old. But just wondering will this help improve fuel mileage some? Will you get more whistle than the little stock whistle? Is so on both accounts I'm thinking of adding an elbow at the bottom to get more rammed air.

Polaraco

Squint

Great job. Thank for sharing.

I was planning to do mine today. But I am coming in from the front with a piece of flex dryer vent.

Worked great on my S & B, but because I did the Shibby grid heater, I changed the dynamics of the air flow and had top go back to the stock box.

3 1/4 hole saw and a piece of 3" dryer duct and a piece of screen. The nice thing is the faster you go, the more air you force in

AH64ID

I saw no change in economy or whistle. At the airflow levels this mods make a difference your not going to see economy gains.

RamGazer

I had a feeling that was true. I use to own a 2007.5 6.7L and added the Banks w/ super scoop and saw no gain as they claimed.

RamGazer

Here is my cheaper version of a rammed air.

The beer helped out (it was 95 degrees in my garage while outside my garage it was 106 degrees) On the 3" to 4" tube I just pressed it to that shape w/ my hands. The elbow is a 3" dia.


Pre-painted version.










Painted version (to make it less visible).




I painted the inside so it wouldn't be so visible.


So, what do you all think? I was going to use this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_36429-85334-...RL=&facetInfo= But the dia. (I think it was 6" or more) was way too large. I was really looking for a 3" dia. w/ a square opening up front like the one pictured.

AH64ID

Something I have noticed lately is that the intake air temp (pre-turbo) really goes up as boost goes up. It's normally about +3-5° from ambient, but will get +15-20° from ambient under boost.

I am guessing the compressor outlet pipe is really heating up that corner of the engine bay, I may have to wrap it.

I thought it may be the coolant hose, but can be at 10 psi of boost at 205° and not get the inlet spike until boost goes up above 20.

Scotty

RamGazer, if you take a close look at your plastic air dam piece that is mounted to your bumper, there should be a raised rectangle embossed on it...just a fine tuning idea...you could notch out a hole in the air dam and have it sitting in there for a bit more stealth look.

Just a suggestion.

I swiss cheesed my air box so no I gotta find an intact bottom for me to do this.

With a front scoop like that, if you where to put a couple of small holes in the pipe...one in the 90 going up and another a few inches above the 90, you might find that any heavier materials then air will leave the pipe out the holes...like water and snow. I worked on a tubing set up for a prototype for something similar a few years back and this worked.

As for the added heat...yes there is a bunch of heat generated on that side from the turbo and the exhaust...things just absorb it there. Foil backed insulation should virtually eliminate the heat transfer and I suggest it be place on the air box where its closest to the heat. Those air boxes get VERY hot after even a short run.

AH64ID

Yeah I want to do something. I already have manifold/turbine blankets, so I can't imagine what the temp would be like without them on a stock truck that hits 1400°+ in the manifold.