Help please
Help please
I am having some electrical issues with my 2007 5.9.
II recently installed LED tail lights on my flatbed. Like an idiot I cut off the plugs on a couple of the tail light and blinker harness. My ABS and BRAKE lights are on all the time. I wired the plugs back into the harness and the lights are still on. I was already having some issues with the radio not working when I start the truck but then randomly coming on until I turn the truck off, one of my front yellow running lights would randomly turn off, check engine light, etc. Will cutting of the plugs to my blinkers and tail lights cause these electrical issues? Anything I can do besides splicing on a used rear harness?
I replaced both batteries last weekend and I’ve driven the truck a couple times with the ABS/BRAKE lights on. It seemed to run fine. My radio sometimes doesn’t work but it will sporadically come on while driving and my speedometer doesn’t work. It was doing that before I installed the LEDs.I did a gauge cluster reset and I tried turning the truck on and off a few times but the Voltage gauge doesn’t go back down….. EVEN AFTER THE TRUCK IS TURNED OFF. Any ideas?? Thanks for your expertise fellas…
I swapped out the rear speed sensor on the rear diff but the ABS/BRAKE lights are still on.
I pulled out my TIPM and am drawing down power via strapping the positive and negative connections. I sprayed the plugs on the TIPM and letting it sit overnight before hooking everything back up. Fingers crossed that this helps shut off the ABS/BRAKE lights. By drawing down the power to the TIPM will it wipe out any mapping or tune settings or is that a different module that would do that? I’m plugging everything back in this morning.
One question…. is the wiring harness on a Gen 3 RAM 1500 and 2500 5.9 the same?? Is there a point where the rear harness PLUGS into the rest of the truck harness? I’m wondering if I need to go to a scrap yard and cut the entire rear harness off a truck and splice it together by matching the wire colors ….. I wonder if that would help some of my electrical woes???
OK… another question… is there a quick diagram of the GROUND POINT locations on a Gen 3 RAM 2500 5.9? Thank you for your knowledge and experience… NEVER MIND I used a RAM BODY BUILDER manual to locate the electrical diagrams and ground points. Anyone needing electrical clarity should use it. It’s way more helpful that the FSM.
Anyone have any other ideas on what I can do to reset my ABS/BRAKE lights and get my truck lights to stop fluctuating?
.
I did a gauge cluster reset and I tried turning the truck on and off a few times but the Voltage gauge doesn’t go back down….. EVEN AFTER THE TRUCK IS TURNED OFF. Any ideas?? Thanks for your expertise fellas…
II recently installed LED tail lights on my flatbed. Like an idiot I cut off the plugs on a couple of the tail light and blinker harness. My ABS and BRAKE lights are on all the time. I wired the plugs back into the harness and the lights are still on. I was already having some issues with the radio not working when I start the truck but then randomly coming on until I turn the truck off, one of my front yellow running lights would randomly turn off, check engine light, etc. Will cutting of the plugs to my blinkers and tail lights cause these electrical issues? Anything I can do besides splicing on a used rear harness?
I replaced both batteries last weekend and I’ve driven the truck a couple times with the ABS/BRAKE lights on. It seemed to run fine. My radio sometimes doesn’t work but it will sporadically come on while driving and my speedometer doesn’t work. It was doing that before I installed the LEDs.I did a gauge cluster reset and I tried turning the truck on and off a few times but the Voltage gauge doesn’t go back down….. EVEN AFTER THE TRUCK IS TURNED OFF. Any ideas?? Thanks for your expertise fellas…
I swapped out the rear speed sensor on the rear diff but the ABS/BRAKE lights are still on.
I pulled out my TIPM and am drawing down power via strapping the positive and negative connections. I sprayed the plugs on the TIPM and letting it sit overnight before hooking everything back up. Fingers crossed that this helps shut off the ABS/BRAKE lights. By drawing down the power to the TIPM will it wipe out any mapping or tune settings or is that a different module that would do that? I’m plugging everything back in this morning.
One question…. is the wiring harness on a Gen 3 RAM 1500 and 2500 5.9 the same?? Is there a point where the rear harness PLUGS into the rest of the truck harness? I’m wondering if I need to go to a scrap yard and cut the entire rear harness off a truck and splice it together by matching the wire colors ….. I wonder if that would help some of my electrical woes???
OK… another question… is there a quick diagram of the GROUND POINT locations on a Gen 3 RAM 2500 5.9? Thank you for your knowledge and experience… NEVER MIND I used a RAM BODY BUILDER manual to locate the electrical diagrams and ground points. Anyone needing electrical clarity should use it. It’s way more helpful that the FSM.
Anyone have any other ideas on what I can do to reset my ABS/BRAKE lights and get my truck lights to stop fluctuating?
.
I did a gauge cluster reset and I tried turning the truck on and off a few times but the Voltage gauge doesn’t go back down….. EVEN AFTER THE TRUCK IS TURNED OFF. Any ideas?? Thanks for your expertise fellas…
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When you wired the plugs back into the harness, did you wire them back in with the old bulbs or new LED? If you wired back in with new LED you may want to go back to a bulb as a test. A bulp draws 1.4 amps, an LED could draw as little as 250ma (not enough to signal a bulb being present.)
When you wired the plugs back into the harness, did you wire them back in with the old bulbs or new LED? If you wired back in with new LED you may want to go back to a bulb as a test. A bulp draws 1.4 amps, an LED could draw as little as 250ma (not enough to signal a bulb being present.)
Thanks. I have the LEDs on there and yes they are flashing fast but I’ve had them on there for awhile and the ABS/BRAKE lights weren’t on. I bought some of the Sylvania load resistors and they didn’t do what they werre supposed to do but TBH I didn’t really mess around with them to try other way of connecting/grounding them.
Is driving with the ABS/BRAKE lights on the cluster on going to cause any damage or maybe trigger an issue while I’m trying to get it sorted? Thank you
Is driving with the ABS/BRAKE lights on the cluster on going to cause any damage or maybe trigger an issue while I’m trying to get it sorted? Thank you
So installing the LED lights aren't directly responsible for turning on the ABS/brake light.
Driving with the ABS/Brake light isn't going to cause your transmission to fall out, but it is indicating that something that is supposed to work, likely isn't
for example, if you come to a sudden stop, you may find your rear wheels skidding instead of having the ABS do it's job.....
The issue or damage has already happened. You need to determine where that is and repair it.
Driving with the ABS/Brake light isn't going to cause your transmission to fall out, but it is indicating that something that is supposed to work, likely isn't
for example, if you come to a sudden stop, you may find your rear wheels skidding instead of having the ABS do it's job.....
The issue or damage has already happened. You need to determine where that is and repair it.
That is sure a list of issues. I wonder about the main connector for the dash, with the stereo, gauges and what not acting up. The other thing, if you can gain access to a scan tool, it would be interesting to see what the ABS fault is. I would also wonder about the brake light switch, as that could affect both the brake lights and the ABS. That may also run through the dash harness, but I don’t remember for sure.
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Well I still have ABS/BRAKE lights on. I can’t find the issue. My speedometer and the Miles Till Empty gauge in the ceiling are not working. All of the other gauges in my cluster seem to be working ok. Any ideas on what could be causing this?? I’ve mentioned the ABS / BRAKE lights before but thought maybe the speedometer and Miles Til Empty gauges might trigger someone’s memory
I really think it’s time to bring it to someone with a good scan tool. You could look to see that all the modules are communicating, any error codes, what the speed sensors are reporting, what state the brake switch is in….
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