The guys at GV say mandatory 5K, along with cleaning the filter screen.

That's what they told me when they asked me my oil change intervals for a warranty issue. The book says 10k, they said nope .

.....................Jim

 

I wouldn't scrimp around trying to save a few measly bucks extending the oil changes if I were you ridofpwrstroke. Synthetics at $12 per change for me and I'm still changing it every 5k just like GV says. It's the life of the (expensive!!) unit. 12$ is nothing.

 

I crawled up under there today to check things over. I noticed a little oil seepage coming out of the transfer case (red tranny fluid) where the unit bolts onto the back of it and I saw there is some seepage from the G56 where two seperate parts of the housing were bolted together from the factory which is also aggravating. This is what I hate about other people working on my truck I'll keep an eye on the TC fluid level the next few weeks and see what happens. If it's bad it's coming off there and being re-siliconed.

 

So to clean the filter, is that just the little screen in the drain hole? I will change at 5k as I only put on 12k a year. Didnt know it was that important.

 

Look in your manual. If it's the same manual as mine it will be in the service appendix page A-8.

Remove the sump, then the suction filter, then the pressure filter base plug. Then filter should come away with the base plug, otherwise you'll have to pry it loose. Not a big deal.

..............Jim

 

Hey DiEseLjunKy, what fluid are you using and how much were your Dyna Tracs?

 

I was ready to send my gear vendors back when I found out about the oil change period and I told them so . I got a call from them and I asked if this was fixed in stone or if it was related to dutie cycle . They agreed that an empty truck did not require the amount of oil changes that a rig towing grossing 30,000lbs. would. My rig weights 20,500lbs and I suggested to them that 10,000 miles X 68% = 6800 miles and that is what I service my GV unit at when towing. I have over 80,000 kilometers 50,000 miles since I installed the unit and I have serviced it several times the worst looking oil that I drained out of it was the initial oil change and it was done at 5100kms or 3168 miles I drilled the sump and installed a sender unit that will turn a light on in the cab @ 200 degrees Farenhiet and I have never seen it come on. When I installed the unit I also hooked up a Hobbs hour meter to the GV solinoid and in 50,000 + miles it is showing 223 hours. So you do not use the unit as much as you think you do. I feel that Gear Vendors should have larger sump (perhaps at least twice as large as it is now to 80 fluid oz). and a larger filter system when I suggested this to them thier answer was they wanted to keep it compact for ground clearance. That is not a problem for most of us towing with Dodge or brand x diesel pickups. I am thinking of machining a piece of 1 inch aluminum plate using a sump gasket as a pattern to increase the amount of oil that the unit would hold, however this would not help the filtering system. In racing applications they offer a cooler group but I do not think that heat is the problem. I started out using the DC oil that was recommended but I changed to Amsoils equivelent for the last two oil changes. Other than the oil change period I am very happy with the unit and I would buy it again.
Jim O

 

how exactly are these shifted with the 6-speed manuals?

Press the button when you want it to go into over, or what? just curious, this may make me stop looking for 7th gear

 

I have a Hurst Tee Handle with a button in it (it is actually for nitros in Drag racing). I normally go to fifth without the GV then go to fifth over then sixth, When towing I will go to fourth then fourth over then to fifth then to either fifth over or sixth. I use the clutch and shift it like you would with a Eaton Axle.
Jim O

 

I go 5th, 5th over, then 6th OVER... as 5th over and 6th are almost the same.

Towing or pulling real hard in 5th over is better (stronger) than 6th since it is direct drive. Tranny will run cooler too.

Some times I split 4th if the speed limit is such that I and not at the RPM I want to be.

The GV unit lets you really dial in the RPM. No more being at a speed "between" gears.

You can pick the RPM for the job.

 

Mash the clutch just like you would on a normal gear change then press the button. You can press the button and up or downshift it without using the clutch but it jerks and makes a loud clanking noise. Using the clutch makes it smooth and quiet virtually undetectable on upshifts. The downshifts however make a slight clanking noise which is normal from what everyone on this thread has said.

For typical driving I find myself using the regular gears 1 thru 6 as long as the speed limit is 55 or slower. Sometimes just for the fun of flippin the button I might cruise around at 55 in 5th over. The big hole is only good for interstate cruising. I suggest investing in a good radar detector if you get GV I can't seem to keep it under 85 anymore with occasional bursts to 100 just for fun

For that guy asking me a few weeks back, sorry i didn't see your question. I'm running Amsoil MTG oil. It cost me $3800 to get it installed. You could DIY for $3200 or less. The GV unit alone costs $2800 and some change shipped to your house.

I'm curious how these things work out on an automatic. If the shifts are smooth or do they clank? Do you manulally shift it or what? I bet one of the new 68RE's with a GV would be really sweet..

 

I agree with you John with my NV5600 I drop about 150rpm from sixth to fifth over how much do you drop with the G56
Jim O

 

Hey guys. I just got one of these units from Camping world. 15 buck membership if you don't have one saves $250 on the unit. It's on sale now. I got mine fro a '98 5spd for 2500 bucks to my door. That's with sales tax!

 

Talk about crappy stock gearing[/QUOTE]


call me crazy but i dont think dodge designed these trucks to go 75-80mph all day.