FYI -My shock!
FYI -My shock!
I have a 03 4WD, crew cab, 48RE tranny, with 155K that was purchased with 122K. I had a vibration that thought was tires as I had "chewed " a bit off on camping trips. Balancing tire helped but still had some. Universals, I'm told, are good for 100k which I had passed by a bit. Long story short, the vibration of bad universals cracked the trany housing and let fluid go. Fortunately I was near home and didn't ruin rest of transmission.
I had someone look at the drive shaft will all 4 on ground and said it felt OK. Evidently, that was not a good way for an evaluation???? Now that its fixed its really smooth with no vibration. IMHO replace them at 100K or seriously evaluate their condition. Some people weld them it you know a good tig welder. I got a new part for $160 from local shop, as it turned out I had other issues in valve body too that I'm more aware of now that it's working properly.
I had someone look at the drive shaft will all 4 on ground and said it felt OK. Evidently, that was not a good way for an evaluation???? Now that its fixed its really smooth with no vibration. IMHO replace them at 100K or seriously evaluate their condition. Some people weld them it you know a good tig welder. I got a new part for $160 from local shop, as it turned out I had other issues in valve body too that I'm more aware of now that it's working properly.
There is no G. There is no G. Repeat after me, THERE IS NO G!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,688
Likes: 4
From: Texas
I have a 03 4WD, crew cab, 48RE tranny, with 155K that was purchased with 122K. I had a vibration that thought was tires as I had "chewed " a bit off on camping trips. Balancing tire helped but still had some. Universals, I'm told, are good for 100k which I had passed by a bit. Long story short, the vibration of bad universals cracked the trany housing and let fluid go. Fortunately I was near home and didn't ruin rest of transmission.
I had someone look at the drive shaft will all 4 on ground and said it felt OK. Evidently, that was not a good way for an evaluation???? Now that its fixed its really smooth with no vibration. IMHO replace them at 100K or seriously evaluate their condition. Some people weld them it you know a good tig welder. I got a new part for $160 from local shop, as it turned out I had other issues in valve body too that I'm more aware of now that it's working properly.
I had someone look at the drive shaft will all 4 on ground and said it felt OK. Evidently, that was not a good way for an evaluation???? Now that its fixed its really smooth with no vibration. IMHO replace them at 100K or seriously evaluate their condition. Some people weld them it you know a good tig welder. I got a new part for $160 from local shop, as it turned out I had other issues in valve body too that I'm more aware of now that it's working properly.
I've got a vibe and everyone keeps blaming it on the tires and I'm told 'the ujoints are fine'. I'm certain it is a ujoint but I'm waiting until failure to figure out which one
I know, that is gambling. Especially your experience losing the tranny housing.
Glad you are up and running smoothly again.
I have to agree with Shorts, the ujoints on these trucks are notorius for failing but being unable to tell if they are bad by the usual methods. Just a thought, but you can also use an infrared thermometer to check each ujoint after a hard run and see if one of them is running hotter ( say by more then 10*F) -- a vibration equals more friction which ususally equals more heat.
I have to agree with Shorts, the ujoints on these trucks are notorius for failing but being unable to tell if they are bad by the usual methods. Just a thought, but you can also use an infrared thermometer to check each ujoint after a hard run and see if one of them is running hotter ( say by more then 10*F) -- a vibration equals more friction which ususally equals more heat.
Jim O
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