My front diff is leaking too much for my liking where the drive shaft connects (pinion seal?). Dealer said I will have to pay $100.00 deductable to fix because 40K miles is out of warrenty (I have the extended)?? Was wondering if anyone could guide me through how to replace the seal myself. Also, while on the phone I asked the dealer about the TSB for the door seal and they stated I had to pay for that also because it is not covered under warrenty? Any info would be appreciated.. I thought I had the 7 yr 70K warrenty for a 2004??

 

you have 7/70 on powertrain. take out your warranty book from the glove box and show him.

 

Thanks zilla, I thought they were talking out the side of their neck. That being said, I would really rather fix the seal myself, can anyone talk me through it???

 

Not an easy fix...the pinion has to come out.

 

Below is from the maintenance manual. I need to have this done but the dealer said my leak was from the crank case draft tube,,,,,NOT. My oil leak is clear oil and anything that comes out of the draft tube is as black as can be. They put dye in the diff to see if it will show.


SEAL-PINION
REMOVAL
1. Mark propeller shaft and pinion flange (1) for installation
reference.
2. Remove propeller shaft.
3. Remove hub bearings and axle shafts.
4. Rotate pinion gear three or four times.
5. Measure and record torque to rotate the pinion
gear with an inch pound torque wrench (2).
6. Hold pinion flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2)
and remove pinion flange nut and washer.
7. Remove pinion flange (1) with Pinion Flange Puller
8992 (2).
8. Remove pinion shaft seal with a seal puller or slide
hammer mounted screw.
DR FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 293

INSTALLATION
1. Install new pinion seal with Installer 8882 (2) and
Handle C-4171 (1).
2. Apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant, to pinion
flange splines.
3. Lightly tap pinion flange onto the pinion, until a few
threads are showing.
4. Install flange washer and new pinion nut.
5. Hold flange (1) with Flange Wrench 8979 (2) and
tighten pinion nut until pinion end play is taken up.
6. Rotate pinion flange (1) several times to seat bearings.
7. Measure pinion Torque To Rotate inch pound
torque wrench (2) and compare it to recorded measurement.
Tighten pinion nut in small increments,
until pinion Torque To Rotate is 0.40-0.57 N•m (3-5
in. lbs.) greater than recorded measurement.
8. Rotate pinion several times then verify pinion
Torque To Rotate again.
9. Install axle shafts and hub bearings.
10. Install propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.

 

If it aint dripping on the ground I wouldnt gamble with dealer techs pulling the whole thing apart and chancing them messing something up inside that axle housing.

Just about every front axle I have seen on the new trucks seeps a little bit of fluid out of the pinion seal. None enough to be dripping on the ground, just enough to wet the outside housing a bit.

I dont worry about mine...

 

I have never had ANY problems just taking the pinion flange off, pop out the seal, and put the new one in. Retorque the pinion flange to the spec, and away you go! Thats what I will do to mine if it happens. I know they want the rotating torque to be yada yada yada, but just don't go crazy with the impact putting it back together.

 

i have done several and not all dealer techs are D/A's!

 

it is easy, i would just take it to a tranny shop that does axles too. thats what i did. if you mark the pinion nut, and then re install it at the same spot, you won't cruch the collar in there. the seal is about 20 bucks or so, and pretty much unbolt the d shaft, take off the pinion nut, pull the flange off, remove the seal, and reverse of that to put all together. i think the shop charged me 40bucks, not worth my time to get under it on the floor, for that. dealer wanted 120bucks.

 

Disconnect front part of front drive shaft(4 torx bolts). Mark the nut to the companion flange with marker or scribe. remove nut. Use puller to pull out companion flange. replace seal. put back together lining up the marks made prior and reassemble drive shaft. should be good to go.

I did this not long ago. Oh and make sure you clean the companion flange real well. And if you have some scotch brite I would put a light cross hatch pattern on the companion flange where the seal rides.

Any questions let me know. Pretty easy job if you take your time.

Eli

 

Thanks for the info guys, I will give it a try when I get some time off. Its not leaking bad, just enough to irritate me. Sounds like it can be done with out having to take apart the whole thing. Again, thanks for the info, this site is outstanding....