JOECUMNS

All of a sudden at 78K miles a horrible brake scrubbing or grinding when applying brakes is heard. No squeal or any warning prior to getting the noise. It wasn't even gradual then worse just all of a sudden. Would i need pads at this mileage. Yes I drive it hard, used to pull a camper but only probably did it 15-20 total trips with camper (33 foot tagalong)

cincydiesel

If its grinding, plan on rotors too.. I just did both sides, rotors and pads for $140.

PWong

Sometimes it needs caliper too if both sides doesn't wear down at the same time.

Jonesey

I just went through the same thing at 94K. The front brake pads were replaced at 68K when the dealer replaced the front prop shaft u-joints under warranty. I heard no squealing or any other warning at all. It just started the grinding noise. Both front calipers were hanging up requiring replacement as well as the pads and rotors. This is most likely what your truck will require. Mine also had to have the prop shaft joints replaced again after a mere 26K miles. In addition the ball joints, the hub bearing assemblies, the rear brakes and rotors were replaced. Two weeks later the rear calipers froze and had to be replaced. Luckily I caught it soon enough as not to destroy the new Dodge oem brakes and rotors. It is amazing a so called heavy duty truck can't even make it to 100k without major parts replacement. I would hate to see it if I had a lift, large tires, wheels and off-roaded the truck.

nickg

alot of brake systems seem to have the squeeler only on the outside pad, 99% of the time the inner will wear out long before the outter does,
this expains why there is no warning...

next tip.
after doing a break job, note and mark the brake fluid level, as the brakes wear out the level drops, when the level hits the add mark you need to replace/check pads. problem is people keep topping up their resivoir, and this eliminates the "visual" brake gauge. doing this allows you to open the hood have a peek at your level prior to going on a big trip and knowing your brake lining .

dont buy cheap pads, they dont last

read this
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n-t287891.html

PWong

True!!!
When you have new rotors and pads the brake fluid level should be FULL.
Don't top up the level unless you have a leak. The level will tell you about the thickness of your pads. After replacing new pads the level will go back
to normal FULL.

RamGazer

O.K., my front brakes grind sometimes not all the time. I have taken both tires off to inspect them and all pads a still pretty thick. I replaced the right caliper because it sounded like it was dragging when I turned the rotor by hand.

Dr.Dizzle

Are the rotors in good condition and free of grooves, glazing etc...

RamGazer

They are very smooth but I think they are glazed over. I can see myself in the reflection. You think that is something that I need to get done right away? I have no problem w/ stopping.

Dr.Dizzle

This may eventually cause an issue with stopping.

If you want be sure that the rotors are finished smooth, take a ball point pen and write your name on the rotor. If the ink is in a continuous line like you would see it written on paper, then it is good enough. If the ink is broken up or leaves dots then the rotor surface requires resurfacing.

If the rotors are glazed then the pads may have some glaze or foreign substance on them as well. I recommend you scuff the pad surfaces with 150 grit wet/dry sandpaper that has been wrapped around a block of wood. This should remove the glaze.