So I finally got around to installing some of the parts that have been accumulating around my place over the past month or so and it made me realize how therapeutic/ rewarding it is to work on my own truck; though I don't think I'd want to do it as a full time job again.

I started with the transmission solenoid and pressure sensor, upgraded to the suncoast kit, replaced the filter, and installed a drain plug in the tranny pan.

The slow speed shudder is gone which is good but I didn't notice any firmer shifting as other members with this mod have noted. But the good thing is that the shudder is gone

Addressing the sloppiness in the front end and the occasional clunk when hitting bumps, I replaced the stock swaybar end links with the MAXX-links I ordered off Geno's.

The front end feels tighter and all noise is gone.
My only concern is that I ordered the longer links for a lifted truck with the intent of removing the Kore swaybar lowering blocks, only problem is I don't have the stock hardware for the swaybar to frame attachment and the hardware used with the Kore blocks is too long to be used without them. My intent is to eventually get some hardware that is the correct length but for now I'm running it that way. Do any of y'all see any problem in running the front swaybar like this for a little while if not forever? I know that the swaybar is supposed to be somewhat level but I haven't noticed any detrimental handling characteristics as of yet.

Thanks to everyone for the wealth of knowledge that can be found on this site.

The next project I'll be saving up for is the carli ball joints and dynatrac free spin kit.

 

Don't run the sway bar like that too long. That angle is wrong, so you lose a little bit wheel rate. And you're putting more lateral stress on the end links than they're designed to handle. Could lead to a failure.

Go down to Ace and get the proper length fastners. If you have some scrap alum lying around, you could make spacers to take up the additional length.

Grade 3 is probably fine. But I would sleep better if I used grade5. There's no lateral stress and and minimal shear, so you could get away with using a grade 8 - not necessary, but if you have them lying around, go ahead and use them.

Don't use SS unless they're rated - and that makes them expensive.

 

I'm having the same problem with my injectors. But only sense I've put a Schid diesel VE performance pump on thats doing 280 CC of fuel. Why are they leaking! I've tried tightening the 15mm body and they still leak around the hold down nut. How does one fix this? They are SAC 5 x 16 ducky injectors