FCA Screw Sizes
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Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
FCA Screw Sizes
Could someone please tell me what size the screws are on the back of the FCA. I'm about to throw the whole CP3 down the street.
No, they're bigger than that. T 25 or 27.
Eric, tap the bolt on the sides first, not on the bolt face, but the smooth round part... give it a few good wacks. I used a piece of flat metal stock to go down the top to hit them. After I gave it a few shots, they came off easy as pie. Before I did that, I rounded off 3 bits.
The metals are different, and the bond together. That's why it's so hard to get off.
Eric, tap the bolt on the sides first, not on the bolt face, but the smooth round part... give it a few good wacks. I used a piece of flat metal stock to go down the top to hit them. After I gave it a few shots, they came off easy as pie. Before I did that, I rounded off 3 bits.
The metals are different, and the bond together. That's why it's so hard to get off.
Thread Starter
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
No, they're bigger than that. T 25 or 27.
Eric, tap the bolt on the sides first, not on the bolt face, but the smooth round part... give it a few good wacks. I used a piece of flat metal stock to go down the top to hit them. After I gave it a few shots, they came off easy as pie. Before I did that, I rounded off 3 bits.
The metals are different, and the bond together. That's why it's so hard to get off.
Eric, tap the bolt on the sides first, not on the bolt face, but the smooth round part... give it a few good wacks. I used a piece of flat metal stock to go down the top to hit them. After I gave it a few shots, they came off easy as pie. Before I did that, I rounded off 3 bits.
The metals are different, and the bond together. That's why it's so hard to get off.
T-25 was the actual size but still ended up rounding off the heads. I was bout ready to take a sledge to it
Thread Starter
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
Try tapping the heads with hammer just a little before loosening the bolts.
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why did you change it or take it off?
mine wouldn't start Wednesday, i took it off and banged it on the bench, put it back on and it started. installed a new one last night, starts faster and idles smother now.
i am hopeing that is why it didnt start?
mine wouldn't start Wednesday, i took it off and banged it on the bench, put it back on and it started. installed a new one last night, starts faster and idles smother now.
i am hopeing that is why it didnt start?
I have been getting a code (P0251) that may be associated with the FCA so I bought a used one. Rained yesterday so it was a no-go, will try today though. How did you guys get to the bottom screw...to bang it I mean?
Take the wheel well liner out, take the tire off if you really want lots of room.
i put the torx bit in a 1/4" Snap-on deep socket, they have shoulders so the bit will bottom out and not slide all the way in, put it on the screw and tapped the socket with a small hammer, then put on the ratchet and it came right out.
with the wire unplugged there is plenty of room, after i cracked it loose i used a magnet tip screwdriver that the bit fits is.
with the wire unplugged there is plenty of room, after i cracked it loose i used a magnet tip screwdriver that the bit fits is.
i am pulling the injectors tomorrow and having them all tested Monday. I'll be gone most of the week, should know more by the time i get back from PA
i'm getting code 0251 and it is brand new
Just a FWIW....when striking a screw or bolt to loosen, it is a good idea to use a piece of brass or some other soft material as not to distort the head of the piece that you are trying to loosen.....HTH
Jim
Jim



. Now I need to figure out what fuel system component on what vehicle has the T15 screws I'm thinking of that don't want to come off!