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Driveline Vibration Solution

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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Driveline Vibration Solution

Awhile back I had posted a thread for a vibration, like most other 3rd Gen owners. Now, this was not a death wobble, but a driveline vibration, like a u-joint and such. The first obvious symptom was a vibration in the steering wheel. I purchased this truck used so I knew there would be some bugs to work out. After looking it over I noticed that it needed a left front u-joint. I figured that would cause my vibration for sure. No problem, the truck was still under warranty so off to the dealer it went. One new axle later, thats what they do at the dealer, the truck was supposed to be fixed. Only to pick it up and vibrate my way down the highway. I would have thought that after replacing a front axle the tech would have thought a nasty vibration in the steering wheel might be an issue, shame on me, again. So to be sure, I replaced the remaining other side front universal in the driveway, which turned out to be rusty and dry inside, still vibrates . Back to the dealer in frustration. They recommend placing a hoseclamp around the front driveshaft to figure out if it was out of balance. OK, I understand the physics behind this, just not comfortable with the "hoseclamp" fix. Talked them into replacing the whole front driveshaft, steering wheel still vibrates . Let me add this at this point, I am a mechanic and have been for ten years. I know the difference between driveshaft vibration and a wheel balance issue. Just thought I would let the dealer have a crack at it cause it was free and I can be lazy. The truck needed tires when I got it and the steering wheel was not centered so new michelins and an alignment covered that end of any possible issue. Back to the vibration; Having given up on the dealership after they gave up on me, here comes the good stuff. Thanks to DTR, I learned about how the frame on these trucks supposedly magnifies vibrations and possibly transmits them throughout the truck. Keep in mind that I knew this was a driveline vibration, just not sure where it was coming from. SO, the only remaining area was the rear driveshaft, and out it came. I brought it to my driveline guy and had him take a look at it. It was toast so he made me a shiny new one. Installed and viola! No more steering wheel vibration. There was still a slight vibration between 60 and 70 but very slight, hmmmmm.
I could feel it in my seat and especially if i grabbed the transfer case stick. I let this go for prob six months and then finally got frustrated. Took the whole truck to my driveline guy Saturday morning and took him for a ride. Brought my handy 15mm wrench and pulled the shaft right in his parking lot. We put it on his balancer and the dial indicators showed about 3 thousands out of balance. Now, not sure if anyone knows how these machines work, but we are not talking out of round, but out of balance, measured in runout caused by vibration due to an out of balance condition. The shaft is mounted in two floating mounts with dial indicators resting on the mounts. When the shaft is rotated the out of balance causes the mounts to move back and fourth giving the reading (Hope this is clear). According to my guy his standard is anything less than 5 thousands generally will not cause vibration, mine was three out, and vibrated pretty good. So a balancing we went. almost two hours later, a little welding, and a little grinding, we had it within less than 1 thousand of an inch out. You could feel the vibration go away on the machine as we got closer and closer. So I reinstalled it back in the parking lot and went for a ride. Smooth as a Cadillac!!! I know alot of guys are chasing vibrations, so maybe this will help. While I know it can seem daunting and everyone gets discouraged, there is always an answer. Just be extra maticulous when it comes to these Dodges, be sure to be exact and use reputable shops when the dealer gives up. When everything is right, there will be no vibration. This is just one example, but the same logic can be applied to all rotating assemblies. If 5 thousands is the standard for no vibration and it took less than 1 to get rid of mine, these trucks are extremely sensitive to vibration, just be aware.
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 03:37 AM
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Good job... nice to see you didn't give up and live with it....
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 08:40 AM
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So often these days you get "WITHIN INDUSTRY STANDARDS". I had some body work done a few years back and once complete I could see waves in the side.... After I started breathing again, i began to point them out with a big yellow grease pencil and circles and arrows. I was told by the adjuster that it was repaired to "industiry standards". I asked him to show me those standards that would allow such crap and incompetant work to be acceptable, and he could not. Needless to say I moved the vehicle to another shop for proper repair once my attorney called the adjuster and explained to him the cost of correction Vrs. cost of court defense. Industry standards... what ever happen to doing it right. Not close, right. (Rant Over)
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Bee
So often these days you get "WITHIN INDUSTRY STANDARDS". I had some body work done a few years back and once complete I could see waves in the side.... After I started breathing again, i began to point them out with a big yellow grease pencil and circles and arrows. I was told by the adjuster that it was repaired to "industiry standards". I asked him to show me those standards that would allow such crap and incompetant work to be acceptable, and he could not. Needless to say I moved the vehicle to another shop for proper repair once my attorney called the adjuster and explained to him the cost of correction Vrs. cost of court defense. Industry standards... what ever happen to doing it right. Not close, right. (Rant Over)
Ya, I hate to hear, "well it's meets the stds", most standards you can drive a mack truck through and still get it to pass ... I grew up with a 30+ year machinist I can certainly tell the difference between a quality job an one that someone who sorta knows what they are doing can do ... that's why I find it so hard to trust my stuff with anyone else .. guess I just expect too much ...
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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I in no way was trying to badmouth my driveline guy, he was/is spectacular. I have one of his shafts in my race car and use him for my customers cars all the time. I just want to point out for everyone to be extra careful when diagnosing vibrations on our trucks. I am willing to offer his name / number if anyone is in need of such services.
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 08:26 PM
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I would be interested in the number. Where is he located? I have put two drive shafts in mine with no luck.
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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You def want to call Niel at axle exchange. Google it. They are here in North Jersey but ship all over the country. Be sure thats its a driveshaft speed vibration. Our trucks are particularly prone due to the 4:10s also. A good indicator is to grab the transfer case stick at speed.
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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[QUOTE=Tim @TotalFab;1894632]I would be interested in the number. Where is he located? I have put two drive shafts in mine with no luck.[/QUOTE

x2!!!
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Please see previous reply. Let me know how it works out
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 08:40 AM
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my 03 is vibrating when you get under 10mph and as speed increases the vibration fades. It does not really vibrate on take off or maybe I am just not feeling it. I did just have dealer put a new transfer case and front drive shaft in it. Also when the rear shaft was shot a couple of years ago i had similar symptoms but it vibrated much worse but only at low speed.

You think my vibration might be from shaft?

Also i just rotated and aligned and balanced hoping that would cure vibration but no luck.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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That could be a tough one. Can you describe the vibration a little better? What type of frequency? Where do you feel it? Why were the transfer case and front shaft repaced?
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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It only happens when I am not accelerating but going under 10 -15 miles per hour. It is possible that it vibrates a little when I accelerate from the start but it is not as noticable as when I am coming to a stop and let off the brakes at a slow speed.

The vibration is similar to that of when my rear shaft was destroyed however now it does not do it so much on acceleration. The vibration does not feel like it is jerking the wheel the truck starts shaking though. It also did a similar vibration to this when the transfer case went out but the vibration there to was only under acceleration.

PS. Could a bad lower ball joint cause this sort of vibration? I have been told that my lower ball joint on the passenger side could stand to be replaced but that was about 30,000 miles ago and I have not had any probs unless this is the ball joint
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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Hmmmm, certianly anything is possible, and thats easy to check. Just jack up the suspected side and grab the wheel at the top and the bottom. If you can move the wheel in and out at all you need at least one ball joint. I did all four at the same time on my last truck just because. But if you are going to have the spindle off you should def change both ball joints. Do you feel it in the steering wheel or does the whole truck vibrate?
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 04:06 PM
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From: Kodak, Tn
Feel mine in the transfer case **** and in the pedals. Dealer said it was the driveline angle that DC could'nt get right with the quad cab long beds. I said
horses#%t, he told me sorry and have a nice day. They did replace my driveshaft put you guessed it still a vibration. definitly gonna try a diveline shop. Thanks for the info on that.. it drives my nutts
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Old Jan 31, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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My 07 4x4 Quad cab had a vibration that developed around 2,000 miles. It is apparent at about 67mph and leaves around 74mph. I have installed a Superlift 2" leveling kit (coils) and it seems to be a little worse than before. I have had it aligned but it seems that maybe the pinion angle needs to be corrected on the front end? I do feel it in the transfer case but not in the steering wheel. Maybe a rear shaft then? I am going to research a hub lock/unlock setup. I believe that will solve a lot of the vibration issues, although a very expensive way to go.
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