Drive shaft u-joints
#1
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Drive shaft u-joints
I need to replace the rear drive shaft u-joints on both of my trucks. I need to know which ones to install. I have read through some of the other posts and found myself even more confused. What are some of the better u-joints to use? Source of supply and part numbers for each would be a great help.
#2
I say find a good local drive line shop and ask, they will have questions on your usage and get ya the right ones. They say that greaseables are weaker, and I am sure they are with the hole in them. The thing is are you rock crawling, pulling or dragging. How much stress are you putting on them? So I say ask a profesional.
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I am unsure of the '03 truck, but I believe your '05.5 should be the same as mine. I used Precision brand p/n 351A on my rear shaft. They are made in the USA and are greasable. You can get them at rockauto dot com (best price) or I went to a local ORielly's auto parts store and they price matched.
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I measured both truck u-joints and they are the same. Looks like I will be going with the Precision 351A u-joints. The best prices I have found are Rock Auto and Summit for around $25 a piece. NAPA and O'Reilly carry them but they want around $40 a piece. I will check with O'Reilly's and see if they will price match them. Thanks for the help.
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DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
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You might want to just get a whole new shaft. I got a complete brand new Dodge driveshaft from Bremerton Dodge for mine. It comes with the spline and everything, assembled and ready to bolt in for just over $180.
I'm sitting at about 186,000 on the truck and still no sign of failure, so the shaft is sitting in the living room, waiting. When it is time, there will be no more than 20 minutes down time and I can rebuild the old one for the next go round.
I'm sitting at about 186,000 on the truck and still no sign of failure, so the shaft is sitting in the living room, waiting. When it is time, there will be no more than 20 minutes down time and I can rebuild the old one for the next go round.
#9
I agree with Raspy, The one piece drive shafts don’t cost that much. You could swap it in 15-20 minutes, (4 bolts, on-off, done!) and then deal with replacing the U-joints at your leisure. (Fire, beating, pressing, cussing, swearing grinding….etc …case of beer!!) This way you’ll be ready for next time too.
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Chances are, if you need the rear u-joint, the others on the shafts are probably marginal and need replacing also.
I decided to go to a one-piece driveshaft and rid myself of all the two piece issues that seem to be related to early u-joint failure and center bearing failures.
CD
I decided to go to a one-piece driveshaft and rid myself of all the two piece issues that seem to be related to early u-joint failure and center bearing failures.
CD
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The Mega Cabs are the same length as the Quad Cabs with an 8' bed, so, what is that difference - about 2 feet or just under it?? I'll have to measure the shaft length.
CD
CD
#14
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Chances are, if you need the rear u-joint, the others on the shafts are probably marginal and need replacing also.
I decided to go to a one-piece driveshaft and rid myself of all the two piece issues that seem to be related to early u-joint failure and center bearing failures.
CD
I decided to go to a one-piece driveshaft and rid myself of all the two piece issues that seem to be related to early u-joint failure and center bearing failures.
CD
Jim O
#15
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I find that I go through two rear u joints to one front one and the second rear joint is rusted and dusted and the front is almost in a use again state. I think it is axle wrap causing the rear U joint to fail. When you start out with a heavy load or a trailer on the pinion will rotate upward and cause the u joint to bind. I believe traction bars would help prevent this.
Jim O
Jim O
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