justen920

I would go with a new gasket, they are cheap and since you have the pan dropped I always put a new one on to save the hassle down the road. I went ahead and did the filter, and new BORG GOVERNOR PRESSURE SOLENOID & SENSOR KIT. Just remember if you do the band adjustment make sure you use INCH pounds and not foot pounds. Best of luck and if you need a pic of my drain I could climb under it and take one.

rockcrawler304

I'm not much of an auto guy but isn't it better to tap into the hot line going up to the cooler to get the actual trans temp? Measuring the temp in the pan is not as accurate. I've seen kits that tap into this line some where on here.

Shorts

I think you guys are right, I'll have the gasket replaced. I think Genos has a filter & gasket kit for a good price.



I vaguely recall reading a while back there is a small difference in temp between the line and the pan. I'll reread and see which would give the most accurate. I believe it is the line. If that's the case I'll have to get a T-line kit (I think Diesel Manor has one)

Mr Jerry

If your concered about drilling through your pan and hitting something just wrap black electrical tape around the bit about 1/4 inch from the tip, that will stop you from drilling past 1/4 inches, as for a drain plug i would find a nice engine pan plug and a nut to fit, just weld the nut on the outside of the pan, completely drains and seals nice, good luck.

Kach

I just did mine and made a fairly significant mess in the garage - thankfully I had a bunch of cardboard layed out on the floor and I used every shop towel to keep the mess contained to that... My not so genius idea was to use my little floor jack to hold up the pan (using a couple blocks of wood) against the tranny while I undid the bolts. Sooooo, when the fluid started to leak (gush) around the edges, the jack was in the way and I couldn't catch a lot of it!

I ran up to Autozone and bought an add-a-drain kit for a couple bucks and installed it. I spent a couple minutes looking for a spot with good clearance away from the filter etc.

Hand pump would be pretty slick and clean. I don't think anyone will drop their pan without adding a drain before putting it back on! Drilling wouldn't be all that bad compared to what I did, but I would be concerned about getting into the wrong spot.

Shorts

I'm so glad you posted this. One of my ideas to hold up the pan while I worked on bolts was to be either a jack or stands. Glad you worked it out


BTW, what kind of plug did you go with?

Lary Ellis (Top)

The way to do this is to remove the bolts across the rear of the pan and then loosen the others a little then prying the rear of the pan loose allowing it to drop slightly and the fluid to drain from there.....once it quits draining, remove the side bolts and slowly loosen the front so it will allow the fluid left in the pan to drain as it drops lower.

The idea here is to let the rear of the pan hang down a little allowing the fluid to flow out the rear gap.

Kach

Yeah, seemed like a good idea at the time...

I think you'll get most of it if you find a large/shallow plastic tote or tupperware of some sort - maybe 3'x3' or so and shallow enough to give you plenty of room to work up above it. Once things get to a certain looseness, it just starts coming out but it flows pretty straight down.

I used something really similar to this:

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...FSoZQgodwSO_YA

Not as beefy as I'd hoped, but so far it's working great. I just have to plan on letting the pan drain for quite a while next time I drain it due to the smallish hole. It just took me about 5 min to install - I drilled a small hole to center it where I wanted then stepped up to the correct size.

Shorts

I did the tcase and tranny fluid today. I should have had a camera crew.

The tcase fluid swap was uneventful. The shining glory was me figuring out that the pour spigot from the gear oil bottle fit the quart bottle of ATF+4 so it made refilling the tcase easy.

I figured it went so well the tranny would be a piece of cake. Silly girl. Got the pan bolts loosened and the initial tilt-drain worked great. I moved the jack stands into place and used a piece of plywood to support the pan wile I undid all the bolts. Worked great. Except now I can't get the pan down. So I manage to walk the jack stands down to the lowest setting taking turns on each side. Great, now I can tilt the pan and finish pouring the fluid into the drain pan. Worked great, until it tilted too far and fell off. SPLASH! Then there was a flood. Looked like someone got murdered under there. OJ, that you?

Rockcrawler, I wished I had the cam rolling. You would have loved it



Fluid didn't look bad. But there was a lot of metal dust collected on the magnet. I dipped my finger in it, it was thick. I was impressed by the magnet


Cleaned up the pan, let it dry while I change out the filter. Went back to the pan and installed the drain plug.



This is not a good spot to put a drain plug. The inside nut interferes with the solenoid or something in there. It was surreal as I was realizing this..."the bolt holes won't line up". Now I have a tranny pan with a hole in it. Oh, and it is 530pm and DH is loading his luggage and leaving for a work trip as I discover my problem. Excellent timing lady.



Well, the pan is destroyed, why don't I try to weld the drain nut on the outside and cut it flush on the inside of the pan? Oh, and no more pics from here. I was hustling to get the job done. I washed the pan very thoroughly with hot water and soap since I had used brakekleen on it (welding fumes are very bad) and set it aside. Put the pass through bolt in a vice and sawed off all but two threads. Then installed it on the pan and snugged it down. I welded the bolt head on the outside of the pan, cleaned up the welds to look for pin holes, removed the nut from the inside and ground down the remaining threads so it was flush. I filled the pan with water and let it sit a while to see if it would leak. It was dry so I cleaned it again, and got it installed on the truck. Filled her up and went for a spin.

As of tonight when I closed it down there were no leaks and the truck drives like I hadn't worked on it (that's good, it ran good). I hope my fix holds!

rockcrawler304

See Shorts!! I was right. That would have been GREAT!!

Glad to hear it worked out good in the end. And love the pics

Shorts

You were. Soon as it happened I thought about you



One concern I do have from welding is the lining of the pan got burnt off. It looks like it was galvanized(?). Will that bare metal be a problem on the inside of the pan? I'm thinking if it is I should start seeing rust through and leakage in time.

Eh, so long as any particles don't destroy the tranny I'll replace the pan if it dies. I've already helped it along

R13

I would imagine that the fluid would keep it from rusting.

Then again what do I know I just shoot a plastic tube into my tcase.

Mr Jerry

So you took my advice on welding the nut on the outside but I guess you took the long way around.

Shorts

"Life...uh..uh...finds a way." I did take your advice! lol

Interesting what you do when you HAVE to do it

Luckily I'm not afraid of welding sheet, just wasn't wanting to when I could just bolt it in. Overall, I'm laughing at the whole thing and kind of impressed at how I handled it (if I can brag for a sec). There was a time in my younger days when I wouldn't have drilled a hole in a perfectly good pan, "I don't wanna mess anything up". Especially without a safety net and having an entire plan if things went wrong. This time I really had no net and no plan. All of a sudden it was 'this is your problem, fix it'. It wasn't so bad if the truck holds together. Oh my gosh I'm...I'm... maturing

rockcrawler304

I agree that with the oil you should not have any issue with rust from the inside.