Did 48RE Band Adjustment
02-16-2009, 09:06 PM
#61
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From what I've read ATF+4 is only SLIGHLY differant then the previous ATF formula.It was changed SLIGHTLY to correct torque convertor shudder on lock up.I'm real partial to Group 4 full synthetics.I''ve used full synthetics for many years with great results.Couple of differant cars with 250k and no trans issues,rear axel issues and very little leakdown in the cylinders etc.Its just plain slicker,takes heat better,flows better etc.etc. Even use a FULL Group 4 synthetic hydulic oil for lifts and such,wet brakes and so on.It performs better period.
02-16-2009, 09:06 PM
#62
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From what I've read ATF+4 is only SLIGHLY differant then the previous ATF formula.It was changed SLIGHTLY to correct torque convertor shudder on lock up.I'm real partial to Group 4 full synthetics.I''ve used full synthetics for many years with great results.Couple of differant cars with 250k and no trans issues,rear axel issues and very little leakdown in the cylinders etc.Its just plain slicker,takes heat better,flows better etc.etc. Even use a FULL Group 4 synthetic hydulic oil for lifts and such,wet brakes and so on.It performs better period.
02-16-2009, 09:06 PM
#63
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From what I've read ATF+4 is only SLIGHLY differant then the previous ATF formula.It was changed SLIGHTLY to correct torque convertor shudder on lock up.I'm real partial to Group 4 full synthetics.I''ve used full synthetics for many years with great results.Couple of differant cars with 250k and no trans issues,rear axel issues and very little leakdown in the cylinders etc.Its just plain slicker,takes heat better,flows better etc.etc. Even use a FULL Group 4 synthetic hydulic oil for lifts and such,wet brakes and so on.It performs better period.
02-17-2009, 01:30 AM
#64
Alright now, I'm only gonna post this once. 
ATF+4 is a GroupIII semi syn base with the same proprietary Lubrizol add pack for the 7176 spec found in the prior conventional ATF+3 formula. It was designed specifically for friction compatibility with the clutch material used in Chrysler transmissions starting with the Ultradrive electronic 4-speed OD's of the late 80s vintage or thereabouts, IIRC.
Anything else used in any Chrysler transmission from that time forward is suspect, and potentially subject to warranty denial in the event of failure in the warranty period.
Ever wonder why every transmission shop in the country always had a good supply of minivans in the parking lot throughout the 90s?
ATF+4 is a GroupIII semi syn base with the same proprietary Lubrizol add pack for the 7176 spec found in the prior conventional ATF+3 formula. It was designed specifically for friction compatibility with the clutch material used in Chrysler transmissions starting with the Ultradrive electronic 4-speed OD's of the late 80s vintage or thereabouts, IIRC.Anything else used in any Chrysler transmission from that time forward is suspect, and potentially subject to warranty denial in the event of failure in the warranty period.
Ever wonder why every transmission shop in the country always had a good supply of minivans in the parking lot throughout the 90s?
06-04-2009, 10:14 PM
#65
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yep... happened to me too!
About a year ago (April 2008), my tranny was "searching" for a gear btw 1st and 2nd. Took it to the dealer, they replaced my transducer and all was good.
~September 2008... I added 6-inch pro comp lift, 18” wheel, 37" tires, banks six gun, air intake, 4in exhaust, all other stock components... about 3 months later, 2nd gear started revving higher, became slow to shift (seemed to "stick") at around 20-30 mph. when pressed on, it would eventually shift onward and beyond 2nd worked as expected. took it into the dealer, and they tightened my front kickdown band and all was good again.
3 weeks ago, the slippage between 2nd and 3rd returned. took it in and this time... all the material on the kickdown band was gone and also discovered... i have drum damage...
So… replacing the kickdown band with a beefier version (non-Chrysler part) and a unfortunately a new drum/clutches.
cha-ching, cha-ching
My mechanic says it is not typical for this to happen, and he is surpised it wore out so quickly/easily, even with the banks installed.
I do enjoy the occasional thrill of 7000lbs of heavy metal at level-6 WOT
, BUT… I definitely don’t want to find myself in this position again anytime soon, so I have a few questions for you guys...
Other than driving like Ms Daisy is in the back seat....
Q1: would programming my computer for 37" tires help at all with this problem? When I bought the truck it had small non-AT tires (265/70/17 pizza cutters). When I installed the 6gun I did the 6-switch manual -- didn't get a bank's palm unit. Wondering if a cortex/smarty/other that allows changing tire size and would help shiftpoints, etc…at all?
Q2: Likewise my speedo is off 10 mph (shows 55 when I am rolling 65) is it possible this mis-information is changing shift points, etc...?
Q3: Would a deeper trans pan help at all?
Q4: Is level 4/5/6 WOT from a dead stop more harmful than WOT when rolling at 45/55/65 MPH?
Q5: Does it all come down to no more level-4/5/6 starts at WOT with my factory 48re?? (pls say it aint soo)
Q6: Are their any mods I can make to accommodate my setup, without going all out on a new tranny?? I don't run at the local race track or street race at every red light, nor am I planning for nitrous
thanks for your comments.
slang
~September 2008... I added 6-inch pro comp lift, 18” wheel, 37" tires, banks six gun, air intake, 4in exhaust, all other stock components... about 3 months later, 2nd gear started revving higher, became slow to shift (seemed to "stick") at around 20-30 mph. when pressed on, it would eventually shift onward and beyond 2nd worked as expected. took it into the dealer, and they tightened my front kickdown band and all was good again.
3 weeks ago, the slippage between 2nd and 3rd returned. took it in and this time... all the material on the kickdown band was gone and also discovered... i have drum damage...
So… replacing the kickdown band with a beefier version (non-Chrysler part) and a unfortunately a new drum/clutches.
cha-ching, cha-chingMy mechanic says it is not typical for this to happen, and he is surpised it wore out so quickly/easily, even with the banks installed.
I do enjoy the occasional thrill of 7000lbs of heavy metal at level-6 WOT
, BUT… I definitely don’t want to find myself in this position again anytime soon, so I have a few questions for you guys... Other than driving like Ms Daisy is in the back seat....
Q1: would programming my computer for 37" tires help at all with this problem? When I bought the truck it had small non-AT tires (265/70/17 pizza cutters). When I installed the 6gun I did the 6-switch manual -- didn't get a bank's palm unit. Wondering if a cortex/smarty/other that allows changing tire size and would help shiftpoints, etc…at all?
Q2: Likewise my speedo is off 10 mph (shows 55 when I am rolling 65) is it possible this mis-information is changing shift points, etc...?
Q3: Would a deeper trans pan help at all?
Q4: Is level 4/5/6 WOT from a dead stop more harmful than WOT when rolling at 45/55/65 MPH?
Q5: Does it all come down to no more level-4/5/6 starts at WOT with my factory 48re?? (pls say it aint soo)
Q6: Are their any mods I can make to accommodate my setup, without going all out on a new tranny?? I don't run at the local race track or street race at every red light, nor am I planning for nitrous
thanks for your comments.
slang
06-04-2009, 10:48 PM
#66
Wow I am surprised that your dealer actually seemed to help! Most of the dealers around here I would not trust to fill up the washer fluid.
I have a problem with my trans wanting to stay in over drive for too long. It sucks especially when towing since it cause's the egt's to go up pretty high if not watched. I am behind on a fluid change and will do that soon hopefully it helps. If not I will be back here asking some opinions.
I have an 05' 3500 single rear wheel what trans would I have and how would I tell?
I have a problem with my trans wanting to stay in over drive for too long. It sucks especially when towing since it cause's the egt's to go up pretty high if not watched. I am behind on a fluid change and will do that soon hopefully it helps. If not I will be back here asking some opinions.
I have an 05' 3500 single rear wheel what trans would I have and how would I tell?
06-04-2009, 11:00 PM
#67
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hey smasher...
your tranny is likely a 48RE.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t244496.html
Yeah, the service guys at my dealer are good folks. always helpful, knowledgeable, and I know I can count on 'em.
your tranny is likely a 48RE.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t244496.html
Yeah, the service guys at my dealer are good folks. always helpful, knowledgeable, and I know I can count on 'em.
06-05-2009, 12:39 PM
#69
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I am fixing to do a service on my pickup in a day or two. I only noticed a bit of a shifting problem when I towed a ride on ditcher around for a couple of days. I kept smelling a burnt odor and some not so smooth shifts. Then I started reading everything I could about the 48re and decided to install the following
Mag-Hytec DD with all of its goodies
pressure solenoid
transducer (figured why not)
Royal Purple fluid (no time to wait for Amsoil)
with the pan off I plan to adjust the bands according to directions provided in several of the forums. Then I have a week to beat on it a little before I take a 1000 mile trip.
I got my truck with 70000 on the clock and theres 80k on it now. The appearence of the fluid on the stick looks alright. I am just not sure when the last service was.
if anyone has any advice or comments for me I would greatly appreciate the guidance.
Mag-Hytec DD with all of its goodies
pressure solenoid
transducer (figured why not)
Royal Purple fluid (no time to wait for Amsoil)
with the pan off I plan to adjust the bands according to directions provided in several of the forums. Then I have a week to beat on it a little before I take a 1000 mile trip.
I got my truck with 70000 on the clock and theres 80k on it now. The appearence of the fluid on the stick looks alright. I am just not sure when the last service was.
if anyone has any advice or comments for me I would greatly appreciate the guidance.
06-05-2009, 03:44 PM
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This may be a little off-topic.I asked my local independent garage about doing the BG fluid exchange and what kind of fluid he used and he informed me that he uses dexron-5 atf in all ford,gm amd dodge tranny's ,said he has done hundreds of 48re's with no issues. I was led to believe that atf+4 was the only fluid for 48re?? He charges 125. vs. 199 at the dodge store.Has anyone else used dexron-5 ?
06-05-2009, 09:32 PM
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more of the same...
just found out today... in addition to replacing kickdown band, drum, and drum clutches, I will also need to replace my pressure sensor and transducer... 
my mechanic found material from the wasted kickdown band in the tranny pan had circulated into/affected the pressure sensor/transducer and was causing shift to 3rd to be a problem (bout my luck). luckily while the pan is off they are also giong to inspect and clean the valve body.
man... I am finding out how much I love my truck.
my mechanic found material from the wasted kickdown band in the tranny pan had circulated into/affected the pressure sensor/transducer and was causing shift to 3rd to be a problem (bout my luck). luckily while the pan is off they are also giong to inspect and clean the valve body.
man... I am finding out how much I love my truck.
06-07-2009, 11:56 PM
#73
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I lost my patience though (not enough hands taking pan off and putting DD on) and didn't do the band adjustments. I think I save that for the transmission guy when I get a TransGo kit to install for my next service.
Hind sight being what it is, I would not recommend doing this project with out a lift or a pit at one's convenience and another set of hands. Also, when doing this project, have a way to measure how much fluid comes out. I had a major spill
and had to guess how much to put back. I guessed good, just a little too much, but at least I have a drain plug now.
06-08-2009, 02:43 AM
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I would not do a band adjustment if you have a power adder to the engine. Have you seen the bands that come out of these? They are called a flex band and they are cheap and temporary. It is ok I guess if you just commute and have a STOCK truck. The material on a flex band does not last and like slangnasty went through, it will damage your drum. In a nut shell, if you have a power adder you will be replacing your intermediate band and drum soon. Going through this B.S. right now. Just had $3200.00 in parts dropped at my door and I get to be the guy who rnr's the trans. I wouldnt even want the dealership to fix it if it was under warranty.
