Complete Trans Fluid Flush...Capacity?
 

2006 3500 with an auto transmission. I just past 100,000 miles and am planning on taking it to the shop for a complete flush.

How many quarts should I bring them of the ATF+4? I've read anywhere from 12-16 quarts, is that right?

Is the generic parts store fluid ok or do I need a name brand or is it all the same?

Will be towing a 35 ft, fifth wheel for the first time, about 14,400 pounds. Also planning on changing the fuel filter. No other mods on the truck. Any thoughts?

I did my own flush by adapting a hose to the return line and routing it to a white bucket. If I recall, I believe I used approx 21 quarts to get bright red fluid flowing into the bucket (after replacing filter and reinstalling pan). I did my band adjustments and upgraded governor solenoid and sensor at the same time.

Unless the fluid is cooked, I would just drop the pan (4-6 qts) change the filter and adjust the bands. If it is cooked (brown and stinky), then you'll need 16 quarts, but have an extra just in case. ~4 qts in the pan, 12 in the trans, cooler, TC and lines.

I wouldn't pay anyone else to do it, pretty easy DIY. And whatever you do, DON'T get a "power flush" - that can mess things up.

Question, my truck is just over 150,300 miles. I use to tow 2 to 4 times a year and a half ago (my old travel trailer almost 5,000 lbs. empty). This year I've been towing four times a month (new trailer 6,480 lbs empty). I've never changed out my fluid (thinking I probably need to), cause I'm going to do much more towing (using my trailer as a rental when I'm not using it) and also going to Glacier Nat. Park, Yellowstone, Mount Rushmore this July (3,654 miles not including side trips which we all do :)). I just changed out my rear differential fluid. So should I change my fluid and filter (what kind) and tighten the bands (how?)?

If it's never been changed, then yes- I would do it. I believe the maintenance manual is every 30k (pan, bands & filter) if towing a lot, 60k if not (?). Band adjustment procedure here:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=196423
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=106095

Not difficult, but follow the instructions exactly!

Thanks for the info. But I think I'll leave the bands alone because my transmission has never gone hunting for gears. Anyone know what filter I will be needing?

Behold!

http://www.genosgarage.com/MOPAR-TRA.../MOP-52118789/

ATF needed for 48RE refill
 

Point of reference. Rebuilt my own 48re a few months ago including new torque convrtr. So she was as empty as a case of beer on late Sat night[guitar]. Took 14 quarts of ATF4 (not beer)[duhhh] to fill'r up to low mark on dipstick.

[director]For a really good drain of all the cavities except the torque converter, drop oil pan and loosen just the hex bolts, about 2-3 turns, holding valve body to trans case . Takes about 10 minutes to drain.
Don't mess with the screws.

When done remember to tighten the hex bolts and re-attach oil pan[dummy].
Have 10 quarts ready to throw in.

What flavor do you guy's recommend. Synthetic or non-synthetic, brand name?

Synthetic vs dyno trans oil.
 

Castrol synthetic. Synthetics can tolerate heat much better. unless you Promise not to speed, swear, cuss, show off, drag race, drive cross country, or pull stumps. otherwise the regular stuff should work ok.[dummy]

The ATF+4 used in the 48re is synthetic to start with. The brand is somewhat irrelevant.

Like a lot of other oil threads, you can do a search here and see all the opinions expressed on an individual's favorite brand. That said, the Wallyworld ATF+4 meets all specs.

I have had a lot of good luck with Amsoil ATF and is what I have used for about 6 years now.

I'll refer you to "bobstheoilguy" website for good info on this.

How about Castrol GTX High-Mileage? Or just the synthetic?

ATF+4 is what you should use, NOT high mileage, I change the filter, all the fluid, and adjust the bands every 50k, mine take about 22 to 23 quarts, I have the double deep maghytec trany pan.

The Castrol GTX HM is a DEX-Mercon /most but not all manufacturer's recommended fluid. It is not an ATF+4 fluid. It lacks the friction modifiers that are formulated into the finished fluid by Lubrizol. There is no reason to reinvent the wheel here.

Attached,is a list of the licensed ATF+4 fluids that contain the Lubrizol formulation.

http://centerforqa.com/chrysler/licensed-atf4-brands

^^^^ thanks for that--

That list illustrates what I meant by the "brand being irrelevant".

As long as it is ATF +4, it meets the specs and you are good.

What is said about reinventing the wheel is accurate. Don't over think this and presume that choosing something different is going to provide you with superior results.